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Ok thanks bro. will try it. since my IC pipes are routed right over them, the guy installing the pipes could have knocked it. Thanks! Btw, can the afm readings get thrown off if it gets hot?

Hi everyone, I noticed my rb25 s2 (nissan cefiro a31) seems to be a little sluggish to rev up from idle in neutral. It sort of stumbles before the rpm climbs when I step on the gas. This only happens once the engine is warmed up and driven for a while. I already cleaned my TB ans IAC valves. Timing also adjusted by my mechanic. Engine is stock with open pod filter, aftermarket turbo manifold with 1bar wastegate and gtr fmic. Is this common when the air intake gets hot? I dont have a heat shield but will fabricate one soon.

My car is the exact opposite! Every morning or if the car has sat for a long time, its a B**th to start. I have to turn the key one shot. If i leave it in ignition till the fuel pump runs and cuts out, i have to crank it really long and depress teh gas pedal. but once it has warmed up or even after a few hours of sitting its starts like a charm. It only does this when it sits for too long like in the mornings or in the evenings after work. Anything i can do to solve this? Fuel pressure too high?

Oh ok ok i get it now. Just one more noob question, Whats the difference in symptoms between a misfire and a fuel cut?

will get the leaks done hopefully this weekend. The boost part, a bit difficult as im running a 1 bar wastegate. Just wondering why or how can leaks cause this?

Hi everyone, i seem to have had this problem where the car jerks/ hesitates under full throttle/full boost especially on cooler days. This only happened after i boosted my RB20DEt to 1 bar. Initially i thought the fueling was insufficient and took it to the dyno to cehck the AFR and all was fine. Then replaced the plugs, initially didn't notice any jerks until after 10k kms. Yesterday i got the charge line pressurized with compressed air and founf out one of the hoses had a crack and my Intercooler (Stock side mount) was leaking ( The hissing sound of air escaping was pretty audible). Can these cause the jerks and why? is it because the AFM is maxing out to cope with the leaks?

I had th4e same problem when i installed a blitz BOV (Bought used). Messed around with the spring tension and it wasnt stalling anymore. But i noticed better response from the engine with the stock recirculating valve, so i changed back to stock.

So cool! Wish they had this kinda stuff and tuners here in Malaysia. And not having the authorities limiting CC upgrades!

Thanks a lot for the info bro, looks like i was using RB25 NEo plugs in my 20... Hmmmmm. A mate of mine suggested gaping down to 0.7 or o.65. Maybe ill try it and keep you all posted. My tuner said my air flow could also be a problem giving false temperature and flow readings to the ecu. Will need to swap that one too and see what happens!

They were stock gaps, 0.8mm i believe. I didnt measure them though after taking them out.

I took the NGK Irridiums out yesterday and put back my old Denso IK22s just to check if there is any improvements since the Densos looked fine. The NGKs appeared whiter then a Japan GT Queen! I was running lean! Its real funny as on the dyno, it was ok. Unless my FPR settings had changed. SO i set it back at around 42 psi for now. I still get that jerk at full throttle/ full boost but not as bad as before. Will need to change the plugs again and try dyno-ing the car again to set it right.

I dont have a cat, using straight pipe with one center silencer I didnt knwo anything bout plugs when i changed them. The mechanic was the one who installed it for me.

Thanks fro the tip bro, i shall try out copper plugs and removingt he thermostat first. And yes, my idle is quite rough once the car has warmed up and i do get some fuel smell from the exhaust. Hope the coil packs are ok. I dont wanna spend to much on this motor as im planning to swap a 25 hopefully next year.

Just want to ask, should i remove the low temp thermostat and change back to stock? BEcause im running sometimes below 70 degrees C, and im not sure if that hinders performance or fuel mapping.

Ok thanks for the info. Was running irridiums and they are really expensive here in malaysia. Changing them every 10-15k is really painful on the wallet!