blue_vl_t

Sold, please delete

Sold, please delete

Sold

This is brand new, still have everything as it would come if ordered new. $120 0408275902

As mentioned I have a r33 gtr power steering pump and matching bracket I bought to fit to my r32 gtr but I have sold it and no longer require this. 0408275902 $300

Sold

This car is still available, will be taking it to powercruise this weekend.

Was making 380rwkw but I have it running on 50:50 E85:98 now, road tuned, goes better, unsure of power.

I'm looking to sell my R32 GTR as with my family and work I am not using it as much as I would like. The car is a 1989 and is supporting the original paintwork. I have owned a couple of this model and this car is in great condition inside out and underneath. I spent considerable time looking for a genuine car before buying this one. Modifications are fairly extensive and its an all round package. Full JUN built motor, forged pistons, I beam rods, JUN cams 272 10.5mm, JUN oil pump and crank nose extension, Tomei metal Headgasket, metal exhaust, metal intake gaskets and full set, ARP mains and head studs Greddy weld on sump extensioon/baffles etc. Greddy inter cooler, Greddy oil cooler/thermostat/remote filter mount, Greddy radiator, Greddy hard pipe kit Trust T517z 10cm turbos Tomei Expreme dump pipes, Trust Drag evolution exhaust with removable silencer, 3.75" Custom oil catch can/radiator overflow bottle Big fuel setup, custom surge tank twin Bosch 044 pumps, bosch 2000cc injectors, Tomei fuel pressure reg, Haltech platinum pro ECU, Genuine AC Delco LS2 Truck coil packs, OS Giken twin plate clutch, Bride seats, Greddy coil overs N1 headlights Nismo 320kph dash cluster Defi gauges, boost, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, Defi controller with playback and memory, AME tm02 18x10 +15 wheels and 265 semi tyres, same wheels used on the Advan time atack car All parts are genuine, no cheap gear used anywhere. Good points The interior is very tidy, no dash bubble, carpets are clean and not very worn Original paint, so you what you see is the true indication of the cars health. Still uses the original front and rear disk rotors indicating the car has not had much use/kms Brakes overhauled 200km ago, machined rotors, new pads/fluid Replaced rear cradle bushed and diff bushes with nolathane lately Bad points Some paint scratches on the front bumper and paint worn off the lower sections of the pods/skirts. small crack in the front lip, only minor. 10c size rust/corrosin bubble at the bottom of one front guard. steering wheel is not as neat as the rest of the interior Call for further details, genuine 10 second street car. Please only call if genuinely interested. May trade 4 door early model car, hq, vc valiant, xr falcon, possibly even a caravan for my family. Car is located in North Tasmania, not far from the spirit of Tasmania for Mainland buyers. price is $25K PH 0408275902

Yep, my car won't get out of the hole below 7000rpm, I generally launch at 8000. 1.6 60ft

powerglide to RB25/26/30 custom TCE stall, 5000rpm. convertor is brand new still in the box has not been bolted up. built to handle transbrake. I bought the best one they could build me to suit my application, which was to runs 9's or faster and still be good to drive on the street. convertor is built to suit powerglide with turbo input shaft, which is quite normal for big power powerglides. Convertor cost $1600. sell $1100 happy to post anywhere required. 0408275902

I have a greddy radiator in my r32 Gtr, shroud is bolted up, I think it was modified somewhat, I'll have a look at some stage.

E85?

0.4 bar is only like 5.8 psi, that is such a low setting. Two things, why are you running such low boost, and second, it's very hard to keep a turbo at that lower boost pressure. at the rpm of your engine rises, assuming you have an internal gate, the hole in the gate is only like the dice of a 10 or 20 c piece, so basically all of your engines exhaust flow must exit that hole so you won't spin the turbo any faster. I remember years ago when I had a volt turbo with a stock turbo with other mods, it would make 10 psi up in the rpm range even though the actuator was 7psi.

. 4828,s pictured with expreme manifolds someone was intending on bolting on a rb26........

I'm running the achillies 123 265/35/18 on my r32, seem quite good, I haven't tracked them so cannot comment, well except powercruise and drag racing.....

I can't edit the post, 18 x 10 +15

18x20 +15 on my r32, rolling the lip war required

Start by checking your ignition timing with a timing light at the crank, once you know that's correct and you are happy with injector sizing and fuel pressure etc(if this gear is standard you won't need to touch these.) To start tuning your fuel map I would pull 5 to 10 degrees of timing out of the fuel map, somewhere so you have less than 10 degrees timing in boost. Have a wide band to check your afr. Tune to suit. Then gradually put your timing back in.

Unreal, were they gtx2863's or 67's were the -5 front and rear covers used? 500kw looking somewhat stock is amazing.

My first reply was probably a little short. There have been a few cars these days running stock rods and bolts over 400rwkw. The main reason I turned away from changing them is because as mentioned above, by the time you fit them, resize the rods, fit new bearings. You will have the pistons out and the head off, it can easily escalate to a full engine rebuild. So it's a bit of a weigh up between, do you risk running the bolts over 400rwkw or invest more money than you were planning on the engine.

Really, I wouldn't bother, how much power are you looking at making, if it's under 450rwkw I'd leave the stock ones in place.

Care up share more info on the big power low mount Gtx combinations?

I run a pair of t517z 10cm's on my r32, also had -5's on my previous Gtr. They are fairly leggy but can produce lots of grunt for a low mount. I'm not sure which I would pick, but the t517z setup is faster I feel. Not heaps in it, if you went for 8cm housings try wound be very similar to -5's I'd say. The trust turbos are a near install as they don't have water cooling.

The plug should be taped up in the loom, fairly confident it will be there. You will also need to pull your dash apart as the fog light switch will not be plugged in, this plug is taped in the loom also.