blue_vl_t

i'll second that, genuine nissan, brand new, no problems. I have been hearing too many problems arising with silicone hoses of late. Also if they are under the plenum and you have a problem, they are not exactly a nice job to change, do it onece and properly. my 2 c

i find quickest and easiest way is CARFULLY die grind the bush until its very thin with a die grinder and metal burr, then just a few taps with a hammer and screwdriver will split it into pieces, take the bits out with long nose pliers, use the air gun to blow out any swarf, done. probably takes 5-10 min to take your time, as you obviously don't want to be grinding your crank away with the die grinder

Just trying to get my head around what you guys are on about......... so 'graded' bearings can be STD size but be very slightly different in size to suit each journal?? would this mean they have a different measurement size to each other and you order the size you want??? I have heard of people buying like three sets of bearing and measuring them all, then matching bearings that fit 'best' to suit each journal, and this slight difference comes from manufacturing tolerances being a bit out.

9 months ago last post, just making you aware!!!!!!!

hoses and coilovers overs SOLD momo wheel still availiable, price drop $50

you should have the payment for the pfc data logit from me too

that bloke was pissed, lol

well i have been it Kalgoorlie for over 3 years..... anyway, being most people work rosters all over the place, i find it difficult to catch anyone with there skylines about. I have noticed a tidy silver r32 gtr about, also at super cheap the other day saw a tidy looking silver r33 gtst with gold advan looking wheels and a WA SAU sticker send me a pm or post here if you live here and are into the scene, may organize a cruise or something??? this is my car, i only drive it on my days off, and spend more time working on it that driving it wave me down or come say hi if you see me about simon

ahh yep, i was referring to the gtrs turbo to -5 change, just noticed this car is in imports magazine, all specs listed

if your setup is fairly basic, just do this, works well, circulates fuel and gets a bit warmer,but its how most surge tanks are setup. to change the setup, as said above, you would need a larger intank pump that the one drawing from your surge tank to then have your fuel rail ruturn going straight to the tank.

at 121kph, the difference is over 150hp, not sure where your looking???

awsome result, you want to post the rest of the engine specs?? what ignition timing were you running on boost on 98 fuel 574hp, nice, i likey

pm sent, i'll take the z32's

i'm in wa but moving back to tas soon, i voted too

Yea sorry, wa. , but can post no worries, you get use to posting parts when living on the west. About $65 to post to east for plate conversion and pistons together just priced it, but will depend where you are. Send me a pm if you want, there is already a bit of interest but no $$ yet

Up for grabs i have a couple of items CP forged pistons, 8.3:1 compression suit rb30 with rb25/26 head 86.5mm pistons have been used for approx 1000kms and the decision was made to change to 9:1 compression come with pin locks pistons are in great condition will post up pics if there is interest $400 Pro engines 4wd adapter kit. This allows the rb30 to bolt into the gtr with the use of the alloy sump and diff comes with all nuts and bolts, template, oil pickup, conversion plate this kit uses the oil pickup which fits inside the sump, i believe its the only kit that does this, other kits need an external pickup made after the kit has been purchased. pickup is a nice piece of work, tig welded stainless We assembled this onto a rb30 block but has not been used $990 to purchase new selll for $600 pm or post here may post up some more parts soon

coilovers sold pending payment

Perhaps use a wideband meter to check the fuel mix, but should be ok, don't go flogging it until you know it's good though

must be attached with the price dude, classified rules

+1

i'll summarize the above point and advise on what i usually do as i seem to have work on these frequently now. fill water, derr stick a funnel or coke bottle or old radiator hose with enough tape around it so when you jam it into the radiator cap hole it seals without leaking, this must be higher than your bleed screw or there will still be air in the system. fill your funnel up and bleed the air, remove the screw until only coolant comes out and replace it. I usually start the engine, turn your heaters on flat out keep topping up the water as it takes it. then drive around the block, just so the engine is to temperature and carefully do the same again, or you can get away without a funnel as there is pressure in the system that will push the air from the bleeder, but carefully, will be hot. I have see people crack the head on their car from not bleeding the air from the system, no need worry too much, it really is a very basic principal. i'm usually anal enough to re check it after a week or so also hope this helps

I have one of these belts on my own car as well, there are two different gates belts as far as i am aware, the one i have is the "race" version and is blue, it makes a light whirring noise, although your seems louder, or it could just be that my car runs a solid top end and jun cams which are quite loud and it may not be as noticeable. provided the tension of the belt is ok, i cant see there being a problem, apparently very strong belts, hence the noise, but i wouldn't buy another one, the nismo seems to have the best rap, or genuine

pm sent

radiator hoses sold