blue_vl_t

contradicting sourself?? or a typo? the second point you make is what makes the rwd GTR most wothwhile. amongst less maintenance, free range choice of tyres sizes that dont play up with attesa quite a few gtrs need a transfere case rebuild, so no need to worry bout that etc. One point i thought may need changing is the front hubs/uprights to gtst, not sure if they are a direct swap? As the front driveshafts when done up tight support the disk assembly, or a large makeshift bolt and nut could overcome the problem.

One thing worth mentioning is 32 gtr's are very cheap these days, some very much so, $11-13K, while these may not be the 'best' gtr's to buy, people do stil purchase them. When you look at the costs to do conversions, they normally blow out of the water. converting gtst to rb26 etc. we were just sitting about the shed talking smak, as you do, and it came up, figured i'd look into it.

well, this should get the enthusiasts breathin heavy........ looking to see if anyone has converted a GTR to RWD ONLY, so not talking about removing the fuse. Removing the diff from the sump, all front drive shafts and plating up the transfer case, remove all altezza lines and pumps etc. Obviously there is a very large weight advantage, but no 4wd.... I realize that the most response i will get here is, don't wreck a gtr, and why would you bother, but I'm more interested in the positive sides to it, if anyone has a link to some cars done or a build thread or anything. I realize this has been done before and its not exactly breaking the ice, but there is very little on the net about it, trust me i've searched lots. Think of it as a better looking wide body gtst with rb26, larger brakes alloy front end stronger 2 way diff bit better seats etc i DONT want to get into the "whats better a GTR or GTST" fire away, constructively, please

its $700 as written in the heading

corect me if im wrong, but they look identical to the rochester injectors, more than likely made by rochester and then branded MSD

does anyone have any further good or bad info to add about the just jap under plenum hose kit for rb26????

there is some info on this with a search.... the r33 has larger heater hose outlet on the block the r33 has one clip on the fuel rail for the wiring, the r32 has two

looks quite normal to me, with newer fuels it seems harder to tell how the car is running, they always seem cleaner, not light brown back when tuning the carby v8 was all go and leaded petrol.

no, go for it, but as said, justnip them up firm, dont tighten the studs into the head, of interest, are you going to be running standard tourque settings or higher??

I understand the importance of correct clearances etc, but at about $500 a foll set ro suit RB, they are quite cheap

just want to bump an old topic....... is there anyone using these yet and any decent feedback on quality, failures, expansion rates or anything, these are really quite cheap now, but is that for a reason?????

no i look at it, checking the exhaust cam is difficult as it has the CAS gear in the end of the cam.....

no, i have built a few motors, defiantly not valve to piston interference. some results....... spinning the cam by hand mounted vertical on two points i set up a jig and measured to see if the cam is bent very back cam journal 0.08mm our of round close to center journal 0.20mm and very front journal 0.35mm while spinning it by hand and looking you can see the journals wavering a little, although its not as bent as i would have though i may take the other cam and do the same for a comparison

we turned the cam while the head was bolted to the block fully assembled, i was just getting the timing belt in position when i came a cross the problem. I have only straight edged the bottom face of the head atm, will be checking the cam and tunnel as best i can today

before i get the question, stock cams

that title makes me laugh just saying it ok, i'm aiming this at the gurus, i'm not a rocket scientist, but i don't think i'm a f**king idiot either! here is the story I'm building an r32 gtr, recently we replaced the stock turbos with gt2860 -5s, wopped it back together and went for a spin it was a nice drive, thanks for asking. however, the waterpump spilt and the motor got hot, not cooked but not ideal in the old temp. department chucked a new waterpump back on and I was just checking everything and noticed the engine was nearly impossible to turn over by hand, we found the inlet camshaft was so hard you had to stick a bit of wood against the camgear and hit it hard with a hammer to turn the camshaft, warped head from getting it hot we figured, pulled the engine out and stripped it down, took the head off and found its perfectly straight, checked straight down and diagonally. The exhaust cam always moved freely so is it possible the inlet camshaft is bent?? i fail to see what else could possibly have gone wrong, i'll put the cam in the lathe tomoz and see if its bent i'm just wondering am i really off the mark here, or if i'm right, what is the go and is has it happened to others etc what can possibly bend a cam, or cause this

Do you guys find that the top pillow ball joints make the clunking noises, i know mine do, they are only HKS Hyper d's, i'd like to know if with new ones they will shut up, i had the rear shocks out and the pillow ball has a very small amount of movement( 0.5mm approx) when talking to some guys that rebuild and build coilovers they tell me this is normal, put up with it, they are not worn out??? Maybe what is described above is the same problem, mine just rattle over most sharper bumps, ie lots

make no mistake, nitrous is great stuff, i say go for it, there are so many sob stories people will try and tell you, its not safe etc. but the reality is if you have a correctly, well thought out setup, with an engine that is strong enough for the hp being produced, its all good. Using nitrous as you say is what it really was intended for originally, not bringing turbos on song, (although that works well too) just start with smaller jets and keep an eye on the AFR's, nice and rich for safety. let us see the results too if you go through with it.

yea, sorry i was assuming you ran a sohc rb30 turbo, which, as mentioned has some "cooling" fins as an "intercooler", but basically its a piece of pipe from the turbo to the throttlebody without an intercooler. As you have a rb25, continue on, clearly i was on a different page

now notices an intercooler in luvpsi avatar????? chopped up crosover?

i think really, the point is, throw away the crossover, because you will need an intercooler to make close to 300rwkw in a vl , for the sau guys that may not know, crosover pipe means no intercooler......

honestly calaisturbo.com will get you further, but no, you will need an intercooler for almost anything over 9psi with the stock turbo and perhaps 12 psi with aftermarket turbo, dont muck about without one, intercoolers are cheap as chips these days. your loking to run a larger crossover pipe??? methanol, lol

have you overheated the engine at all, i just overheated my engine, no water in the head from cracked water pump, warped the head and the inlet cam went very very tight, exhaust turns ok, this may snap a cam as its bending it. just throwing you some ideas

I'm chasing a lift from Brisbane, just over from wa, love the racing but being on holiday we don't have a car, if anyone is heading out and has two spare seats, myself and the wife, would be appreciated, chip in for fuel or whatever. Let us know, can taxi to brisbane Area. Cheers simon

I have thought about it both ways, done some searches on SAU too, i was originally thinking i would remove the head in the car, but after some reading it seemed some people thought it was easier to just remove the whole engine....... Initially i was going to remove all head bolts and pipes etc and try are remove the head with the turbos and plenum intact, obviously using an engine crane or block and tackle, reassemble all gear to the new head, with jun cams, and refit. I have removed this motor before and plenty of others amongst buiding a few rb30's, so i'm no stranger to the whole engine thing, just the 32 GTR engine / engine bay is kinda tight, just trying to see thoughts on the easiest way.