blue_vl_t

GTRNUR, thats close to what i was thinking, because i only have to change the head it would be nice not to have to remove so much gear. still looking into it, cheers

Hey guys, my water pump split the other day and drained most of the coolant, i noticed quite quickly that there was a problem, but with a very tight inlet cam and some other tests done, its confirmed, my head is warped What i'm looking at is using a engine crane to lift the body over the engine( no i don't have a hoist), leave the motor and box together mounted on the subframe, replace the head, reasemble and refit. I'd like to know if you guy recon its the best way to tackle the situation. only thing i was thinking is lifting the car that high, would the rear bumper hit the ground....maybe?? any help from people that have removed the engine out the bottom without a hoist would be appreciated also.

there is a proper grease for suspension bushes, fairly sure normal grease affects the deterioation of rubber components

Just to add to this thread, i just installed new turbor on my car, chech the tune and bring the car on boost, bang, checed and water running everywhere, upon further inspection the water pump has a huge crack, the fan hit the fan shroud and destroyed it, radiator is ok. The pump broke in the direction of the belt pulling on the pully. I havn't heard of this before, I will remove the pump assembly soon, see what caused it. I'm not after an answer, just letting people know this can happen, will report back if i find a good cause to the breakage.

very nice, like what you are doing, I agree that body kit was a bad thing, love the stock look with good offset wheels and thye correct amount of low. I likle how each time you were defected you would mod the car some more once cleared, lol i actually have the hyper zeror on my 32 gtr at the moment, same sizes and colour too. assuming your not registering it again???

hey guys, i'm looking to part with my Autronic SM4 and matching multi channel CDI 500R both are brand new in the box untouched, comes with instruction booklet, full loom(not cut at all) cd program, chopper disk for RB motor(not needed if you want to install on different motor) laptop cable, inlet temp sensor and coolant temp sensor. I ordered all this through Kyle Hopf (6Boost) he organized it all and was $3100 The CDI is the late version which is better and the SM4 program is the most up to date version I bought this for a project but could do with the funds instead at the moment $2600

danny, pm me if you want to sell your good 2860-5

The other advantage to having them done professionly is to flow test them at the same time to ensure all are withn 3% of each other. then fit the ones that flow the most (if any) to the leaner cylinders, on an rb26 thats #6 then #5

head is sold pending payment, other gear still availiable

the pipes are different profile, bends in the wrong spots

I'm in WA, but shouldn't be too much to send anything PM sent justrb

I just purchased two of these genuine nissan through Just Jap, they come with the screw on ball socket(under the rubber boot) and the shaft, its all one piece and was $120 each. the front tie rods wont fit.

also have injectors, rail, fpr(all stock gtr gear) and low mount manifolds, turbo dump pipes, incase someone is chasing a whole setup. have almost evertyhing except the turbos themselves phone number 0408275902, but easiest to just reply here or PM me. cheers simon

As the topic suggests, i have a RB26 head here, this was removed from my car, 1994 r32 GTR. head was removes as one stock turbo failed and marked number 5 bore in the cylinder, engine was low on compression so the head was separated. I purchased a whole new engine, hence not needing the head any longer. The head is in good running condition, still assembled ready to bolt up. Head includes cams and all associated hardware, valves etc and cam covers, backing plate, cam gears looking for $1000 can post at buyers expense, shouldn't be much. Also have full plenum/throttlebody setup, coil packs and brackets and other parts covers etc, that can be purchased separately

I figure its best to post here rather than make a new topic, so.. I have N1 headlights in my r32 GTR apparently, they look like N1 headlights, as the ones pictured above. But they do not have the brackets for the grill.... there are two screw holes on each headlight where the grill bracket would mount to, with the screws half wound in. So what i'm asking if anyone can look at theirs, are these genuine N1 headlights that someone has flogged the brackets off, or are they early non projector lights and all of this style have the screw holes for the GTR grill. I heard someone says they weigh less, anyone know what weight they should be. and lastly, any chance of getting hold of these brackets, otherwise i'll have to fabricate something up?? cheers ahead

Hey guys just chasing some parts. -factory intercooler mesh -stock horn(s) with bracket(s) - brackets that hold the grill to the headlights with clips and screws if possible -all screws and clips for holding on the front bar and lower lip -boot carpet, only if they are good nic. cheers

Thought id post here insted of starting a new thread....... R32 GTR, i'm having similar problems with lash in the rear diff, I'm able to turn the tailshaft about 15-20mm round each way before the diff takes up, if you get my drift. so there is exessive lash in the crownwheel and pinion, the drive shafts dont move while doing this so the movement is in the centre itself. I cant imagine the gears wearing that far and would asume the pinion bearing is collapsed?? Is this what other people have found when rebuilding their diff's with these symptoms? As a side note the diff seems to twin whell fine, just clunky at low speed. if this seems fesible then are bearings easily avaliable or am i looking at genuine nissan parts for all? any help appreciated

Ran a Exedy solid centered triple plate, (i know this is for a twin plate comparison but i think all information is helpful) around $3600 new if i rememer correctly, took all the punishment in the world drove likle a bitch, took a lot of getting use to and hill starts are almost impossible without rpm and wheelspin must say you do eventually get use to driving them, sort of plates rattled, medium noise, clutch to flywheel take up is noisy and brutal, pedal feel seemd like 5mm I used it on the street and drag racing when removing the clutch it still looked like new, almost good for its purpose, drags or whtever

sounds goog, gotta love the r32's

Have got one sorted now, thanks guy

as topic stated, have a r32 GTR, it has a tidy front bar but i do not have a front lip at all, please let me know if you have one at all, phone or txt 0408 275 902, or post here with details and what you are chasing. cheers guys simon

fairly sure you will find the gtr bumper is very different to the gtst bumper, so no, it wont bolt up, probably best to chase down a whole gtr bumper.

pm sent

340 delivered, can you pm me you ph number or email, blue_vl_t@hotmail.com will take this!!!

Funny thread.... Example, vl turbo i use to own, Manual box gr30/40 1.06 rear 11.8 @ 118mph, added a 850 hp turbo and went 11.4 @ 126mph, my point being, is that's a 10 sec mph, but be buggered if i could drive it to a 10sec pass, ie. lots more power, lots less usable, especialy on the street, was good fun though..... food for thought