blue_vl_t

Without getting into a massive oil pump failure related issues thread. The longer snout on a crank was still a bit of a band aid, the clearance to the drive was a bigger issue. This could be what they have focused on.

More info on this silver Gtr, epic power, is it a tassie car?

Fair point, I have one in my own engine, just never seen one up that way. I would have thought that breathers from the rocker covers would be more effective as the rear oil "drain" would be submerged in oil sometimes. Then the rear oil "drain" connecting to the block/sump equalized the pressure and removes the need for air to travel up the oil return galleys due to blow by. Anyway back on topic, engine build, yada, yada

Not good, strange that the rear head oil drain is on upsidown?

I have looked for a good spot, I'm attempting to remove everything from The engine bay that is not required. I'll have a look and see, thanks. The greddy position really is shocking, I've never had a trouble changing the filter when it was on the block....

Yes, the one I have linked is a greddy/ trust item. It seems strange that the block has an imperial thread. I don't believe there is anything imperial in the whole car.

Hey guys, I have a r32 Gtr, it runs a greddy oil cooler kit with filter relocation. It's a good piece of gear and works well. I'm trying to simplify the engine bay as much as possible, and to be honest the filter position is in a crap spot, I can hardly reach the dipstick. On my last Gtr I use to change the oil with the filter in the original position ok. No hicas etc. So I was looking at this.http://www.frsport.com/12401123-Engine-Oil-Block-Adapter-3-4-x-16UNF--10AN-Fittings_p_26314.html Which would allow me to put the filter back in the stock location and still run the oil cooler with a thermostat. I suppose I am just checking that this is the correct way to go. Are there other adaptors out there? What have you done ? Any better suggestions.

Anyone wrecking a Gtr r32, chasing a few bits, but mostly want a attesa 4wd hydraulic pump .( the one that mounts above the diff)

Looks like its on the road to recovery, don't stress, I've done similar things in my time, as have lots of people. Weld the metal where it's meant to be, then lay skids or go racing or whatever floats your boat and enjoy the car for the purpose you bought it.

AEM, its reliable and easy to setup and use

Awesome, thanks. Keep up the good work, I enjoy reading this build up, it's quite similar to my build.

You car has come out mint, looks damn fast too, good all rounder, the best kind. couple of questions for you if you have a minute to answer, your Cusco and UAS adjustable arms, how much noisier are they than stock rubber bushes, as in knocking, clunking, NHV etc. I'm kind of hoping that quality bits like Cusco wil be better, but even a quality spherical bearing joint must be noisier? Also, i have the same Trust sump extension on my car, do you have aftermarket baffling or just the stock windage tray etc. with the extension welded on? do you care to share your wheel alignment specs

With a reduced base circle, I had jun 264 9.7mm, fit in the stock head. This would be close to the maximum lift before relieving was required. Anyone know of larger lift cams to fit stock head?

How muchdoes it weigh, is it a proper carbon bonnet or show pony one??

That was what I was thinking, but its a bulky and kind of half ass way of doing it. I figure there must be plenty of people that have run teflon now on a skyline that may have a good suggestion. To do it properly I most likely need to remove the intank section and replace the plastic with alloy lines, epoxy them in or similar.......

Hi guys, if this has been covered, i cant find it..... Basically I'm looking to replace my very smelly pushlock lines for teflon -6, on the surge tank and fuel pump is no problem, but what have people done to connect teflon to the stock tank with plastic barbs in a smaller size. Car is R32 GTR.

Hyper gear look good, cheers I generally do everything myself, including engine builds and tuning. but have always thought, automatic transmissions and turbos are for the people with the correct tools and know how, correct me if I'm wrong.

As stated, I have a seized trust greddy t517z turbo that is close to new. I think gcg do them, but I'm assuming they will also be the most expensive. I live in Tasmania so will be posting regardless I think. I'm open to suggestions, cheers

As stated, chasing a set of exhaust manifold heat shields to fit rb26. Just the stock ones. Need some ASAP, happy to pay express post. Cheers Pm me if possible

Am I able to still get one of these? Keen on the tank with fitting and no pumps as I have 4 x 044 pumps kicking about. The fuel drain sounds good.

Anyone know what time the sprints are on at symmons tomorrow?

Actually the jun catalogue, but yep, have plans to tidy it up a bit. Check the tune, etc. I'm interested to see how the trust puppies perform, I lent on it a bit on the way home, slight bit of shuffle up a hill, has map sensor not Mac, so all was good. Will be interesting.

Stock stroke, 272 10.5 cams etc, having only just picked it up I'm keen to check af ratios ignition timing etc before I stick my boot into it, currently running 1.5 + bar.

I just bought a car yesterday with 10cm units fitted, will be interesting to see how I like them as my last Gtr had -5's. Justin you would know the car, silver, jun engine bits, built in Hobart......

-7 turbos would suit, use stock ecu with low boost or go pfc l-jetro to keep everything simple, stock everything else.