blue_vl_t

you will be buting e85 by the barrel then i assume, still no e85 on pump in tas hey? none in WA, it sucks

Fair enough, so if your concerned about it, pull 2-3 deg out of the are you have stated and blend the numbers so the timing graph is still smooth/progressive you say your running 1.2 bar, what turbo is that?? makes a huge difference to intake temps and detonation, if its a t51r or a stock turbo, i'm going to assume you have a gt3076 or similar

Fair few differences, must have quite an idle with 280 cams Who ported the head for you?? do you know what was done, was it ported for drag racing, outright power or mild post, smaller ports etc for all round performance? you running 1mm oversize on the intake and exhaust? Do you have this going at the moment rob? or still having problems/rebuilding/upgrading

well, considering you have FCLOGIT, just datalog a bit of driving about, then you can check the knock in all individual cells, so you will be able to see if its in the top end or the bottom end etc. Most of the range where you have 40+ deg of timing, you would be hard pressed to use any of that map, you would need to be driving around in a lower gear, with a few revs and light throttle.

Rob what was changed though? as really the rb25 head ports are the same as rb26, so i'd say your extra power was made from cam selection/solid lifters, head modification, intake plenum and the fact you are running 2psi extra boost. All which could be done to the rb25 head if someone was keen. correct me if im wrong

21-23 degrese through the full boost range? that is quite high, not saying its too high as it depends on the motor. but taking a deg or two out top end wont hurt, except power perhaps....

no offence mate, but there is like thousands of threads related to cat back systems, have a search of each brand name you can come up with, if no luck on SAU, then use google to find heaps of content on SAU.

This seems to becoming more frequent of late, i was scammed a $300 diff center, i have used this forum for buying and selling a fair bit, this happened in the last couple of months. The original for sale ad cannot be opened anymore as moderetors have closed it or something, i'll scrounge up the phone number and bank details in case its the same bloke

Sometimes the wiring gets cought in the throttle mechanism at the back on an rb 26. Not sure what car you have?

on E85??

They are close in spec to the jun 264 9.7 cams I run, The poncama are 260 so you have a bit more duration, which tends to shift the power band a touch higher in the rev range. The extra lift gives more flow. I havn't heard of the specs of these cams before, you sure it's correct.

ok, so i thought id share an update... I'm in the process of pulling the turbos off and replacing the dumps, front pipe and whole exhaust. what i did find is while assembling the exhaust i must have mixed up two of the gaskets on the front pipe, so being the original front pipe is 2.5"x2 into 3", yep you guessed it, i have a 2.5" gasket fitted on the 3" outlet. So my poor bus was attempting to shove all its air through just over 2.5" diameter.. This could explain its flat line and not wanting to produce power over 300 odd RWKW

run methanol

I own one and tune my car on it, ran the car on the dyno lately and AFR's were very similar to the dyno. I welded the bung in(which is supplied) just before the cat, then the wiring can be fed up through the old cat temp sensor wiring hole

do you run a bar and plate or tube and fin intercooler and how thick is it? do you have any shrouding and/or ducting to force air through the radiator with no choice for it to escape elsewhere are you running a shroud around the engine fan?

i run 17s, but still........ i run 17 x 9.5 +15 with 255/40/17 all round, lowish, but not stupid low, guards are stock, not lipped or anything, never had it rub once

i was thinking that...... I run 7 heat range in an rb26, runs great, i run a slightly cooler plug to avoid detonation

As already mentioned, fuel pump voltage sounds like the issue, r32 gtr run 11.5 v before running a hard wire and relay

Have had 26-27psi with stock intake gaskets, no problems

Buy a small invertor to power your laptop without using the battery perhaps

Turbo comes out of the top. I'd say no

Screech noise of the timing belt jumping teeth is my guess

is the engine actually "seized", or can you turn it over with a ratchet and socket until the valves hit the pistons, so what I'm saying is the "engine" may be fine, but the top end is what is causing it to appear seized.

if the lifters are not touching the cam you have bent valves, or one at least anyway