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Everything posted by Johny Bravo
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Amp is a Fusion Encounter Amp, EN-AM30020 Sub is a Fusion Encounter Sub, EN-SW120 I think all the product info is still online. The Sub is wired directly to the amp, and bridged correctly. Been listening to prodigy btw. I'm pretty sure there's not much more i can do with the setup i have without spending money. and i'm playing it from cd, but i can play it on usb, aux, ipod and SD card if need be.
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I may not have been clear. The amp is rated 180rms bridged. I have it bridged to one 200rms sub. Its delivering 180w rms to the sub. i have fiddled with the setting fixxed a few things and it is much better. just gotta turn it around and it should be all good. Cheers for the replies fulla's.
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Can someone please photoshop some Rota Grid's onto my R31 for me? I'll put up a picture on my car, i'm sure most of you know what Rota Grid's are. I can't decide what colour to get. Or even some other brand of rims which are grandpa spec. looking at about 9 inches fat on the rear and about 8 on the front. just curious to see what they look like. Oh and i don't wana go any bigger then 17", i have 15" on there at the moment. Cheers Kurt
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But that would make sense.
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Thinking About Buying Another Skyline
Johny Bravo replied to Snoop180's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Be a real man, and buy a R31. haha. Cheap to buy, and you already know you like them. Don't need to spend much money on them either, cause they are awesome! -
Thinking About Buying Another Skyline
Johny Bravo replied to Snoop180's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Buy it. Oh, and stall convertors make auto's better then manuals imo*. *For certain applications. -
R33 Auto Gearbox Question
Johny Bravo replied to base308's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I've heard of people putting the r33 auto into their auto S3 R31's without having to change the tailshaft. I have no idea about a vl though. I'm going to try putting a r33 auto in my series 1 R31 soon. Not sure how that is going to go. Hope this helps?... -
Alrighty, i can set the HPF on the head unit at these frequency's: 50, 63, 80, 100, 125 Hz. And on the head unit again i can set the sub LPF at the same frequency's(50, 63, 80, 100, 125 Hz). And i can set the LP filter on the sub amp from 40 to 160 Hz. So what are peopls thoughts? Oh my headunit is a Pioneer DEH-5250SD. Cheers Also checked all the speakers and the sub, all have been wired correctly.
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i did all the wiring for my speakers, and i have them all connected consitstently as the two terminals were different. Will get out there with a battery and check there all in phase just to be sure though. I'm sure turning the sub around will make a difference, and i'll get around to it eventually. haha. cheers for the help. i'll have a look and see what settings i have for the hp and lp pass filters and get back to ya. So you recommend setting the bass amp and head unit sub seting at 80Hz (i can set it lower or higher on both) and the speakers amp and head unit speakers setting at 160Hz? Cheers for the help and pacience.
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i didn't have them the right way, worked that out yesterday. sounding much better now. haha.
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Never mind, found a battery, all is well.
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What i've got should be enough to keep me happy. Ok i've made some progress, i fiddled with the band pass filter on the amp, got that sitting roughly on 80hz, and as someone said above its probably got a shit q so high freq will still leak through. So thats one plus. Set the cut off on the head unit at 80Hz, so that should help make the q a little better, also discovered that i can can bump up the gain on the signal sent to the sub amp on the head unit, so thats been turned up and made a great difference. Also found that i can set a hp filter for the speakers, so i set that at 80Hz also. The whole system is sounding better, but not perfect. Will road test it and fine tune it later. Haven't moved the sub yet, it takes up less room and looks alot nicer where it is. Plus to move it i'll need to remove screws and that'll cause leaks. May move it as a last resort. I'm gonna head down to the hardware store later on today hopefully and buy something to seal the inner edges of the box, and i'll see if they got some cheappy sound deadner aswell. Anything will be an improvement on what its got. Now, can ya's help me with something. Not 100% sure if i've got the sub connected correctly, ie i might have +ve and -ve wrong. So, someone go jump in there car and put on The Prodigy's song Piranah (if you dont have it, get it) and through out the song there is a bass line in a few parts where the pitch of the bass goes from low to high then back to low (over about 7 punches). Should the sub progressively move out then in as it does this (ie as the pitch goes up the cone bulges out with it) or should it be the opposite, and sink in as the pitch goes up. Hopefully that makes sense. Cheers Kurt
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from the amount of wires sticking out of it, i'd say its connected to something complex, so it must control the rear dimisters, or possibly the computer, not too sure.... haha
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Car is at the mechanics today. I've got nightshift tonight, so i'll have a quick nap tomorro morning and do some investigating for ya's during the day. Was thinking i pull the sub out, remove the cotton ball sound deadner ( really thin shit thats rubbish), you something like silicon (whatever product i need) to seal all the inner edges and then i'll stick some dense sound deadner in there. Any recommendations on the sealer and deadner?
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its got nice thick cables for the power, can't remember the gauge, im thinking 4? dunno. just bought some aero pro wiring kits from repco. i might try some thicker cables from the amp to the sub though, the speakers are doing fine as they are. Still haven't done anything yet though. I will one day though. Cheers
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Didn't do anything this arvo. But will get onto it. Cheers for the feedback. Kurt
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Gonna retune it this arvo, should make some difference, been playing it a bit the last three days and it seems to be getting better. I'll get hold of some stuff to seal the inside edges and i'll layer the inside with sound deadner later down the track. The box is the right size for the sub, i made sure of that when i purchased it. Cheers fulla's will let ya know how i go. Kurt
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Intercoolers? Suffering From Pressure Drop
Johny Bravo replied to sriver killer's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It may just be a cheap design, what size are the inlet and outlet pipes? This is the same size but might be better? dunno, i just wanna see what people respond to your q. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19813&cat=430&page=1 Have a look around on Just Jap, they prob got what you want. Kurt -
That was my thoughts Kez, but the speakers are great! I'll just do what i can to improve them and be done with it. Was blasting the sub yesterday and today and it seems better then i remember. Oh well it will do. I think i might put some better sound deadning inside the box after i seal all the edges with something. Cheers for the feedback. Kurt
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I'm only running one sub, the box probably isn't the best so i think i might reline the inside of the box with something or at least seal the joins. Pulling the seat down doesn't make much difference, it's still poor. I do intend to get a tune but i guess i will wait till i've worn the sub in, its probably had less then 1hr on. Guess i'll go get my self a multimeter and have a poke around, if there's anything wrong there i'll find it. Cheers for the reply Kurt
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sorry. should of mentioned that. it is bridged. And i've bridged it properly.
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Alrighty, got a fusion sub connected to a fusion 2 channel amp (bridged) and then thats connect to my head unit. Not at all happy with the bass im getting from the sub. The sub is in a sealed box and stuck in the boot facing the rear seats in my R31. I'm barely getting any more bass then i do from my speakers connected to my 4 channel amp. Any way i'll give you the stats. Fusion Sub: Max Power: 400W RMS Power: 200W Freq Resp: 21Hz - 3kHz Impedance: 4 ohms Sensitivity: 90dB Fusion Amp: Max Power: 300W RMS Power: 180W @ 4 ohms Freq Resp: 10Hz - 40kHz Turning up the gain, fidling with everything on the amp, fiddling with the settings on the head unit ( i can control the cut offs for what frequencies it sends to the amp) and stuff. I'm not very happy with the result. I grabbed an amp that wouldn't over power the sub and blow it and i figured that it would underpower it too much, or am i greatly wrong? Only thing i can think of is that the amp isn't seeing enough power from the battery? Yet the four channel amp ( 50W RMS per channel for my 4x 55W RMS 3 way speakers) is doing a superb job. Should i go grab a multimeter and have a poke around? any suggestions? I've checked all my wiring and everything seems all ok. Cheers Kurt
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couple more years and i'll be a mechanical engineer. so if ya need something done, in a few years, let me know. haha
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Very tidy exhausts. looks really good.
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Good on ya, absolutly love these cars. So if ya feel ya need to show it off to some one and lets say your down in southern Tasmania for no apparent reason i suppose i could let ya show me ya car. haha Got any pictures of the exhaust system ya put it?