hazerb30

EDIT PM'd ya instead

Im interested, in perth. Also have a compression guage if it helps you out

I had a clicking noise in my first car. didnt tighten the plug up properly

mine.. they look shit in this photo but really turned out great. I used the standard plastic bezel from the stock 3 guage cluster to give it a stock look. Guages are 52mm autometer's.. or autoguages i cant remember. which ever is the cheap ones.

Hey i had one of these. 4 door r30 L24e. It was so reliable I bought r31 for the extra power and didnt look back

Yeh i think we are thinking of the same vehicle. GTS-X I was the one pending payment and i pulled out after doing a compression test tonight. Cylinder 1 rings are gone, putting oil in there brought the compression up. The car without the engine is still worth the money. Its in the quokka if anyone is interested. Interior is great, no rust besides surface rust under battery, needs engine work and a lot of minor TLC. Paint is shit but the bodywork is good with only couple minor dents easy fixed. No obvious crash damage, all panels line up and doors/boot close perfect. RB20DET. Manual. Has import approval and compliance plate so thats all good for registering. $1800. buy it and a 33 half cut and go at it I reckon.

good for you buddy Thats why im not forthcoming on details.. perhaps i would like to purchase it huh

So theres a imported skyline thats been sitting in a paddock for the past year. Im considering buying it but want to see what i would be getting into. Its unregistered and no plates. It supposedly came from QLD where it was supposedly registered at some point. There is no paperwork at all. It needs a LOT of TLC which im ok to deal with. Ive got the chassis number and ill run it through REVS. Other than that, what challenges will i have ? Obviously it needs to go through the pits but what do I have to be prepared with. Is there someone i can call to see if/where its been registered before? How can i be sure its been complianced/import approval?

same problem here so interested in how you go anyone know if the paint flaking off actually have an affect on the light output

im gonna need an ecu eventually. even for just the fuel economy As for leaning out.. definently do not want that. But im thinking of having the boost at 0.9 bar so that should be ok until i can afford an ecu. yeh? hmm.. it all starts to spiral out of financial control.. Whats another 1000 to do it properly now Still havnt purchased anything. Been all about motorbikes the last week and going for my licence tomorrow. Hope to have some way to get around while the R is off the road

recent thread.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t190975.html

PM this bloke, 666DAN. He can sell you LED replacements. If you dont want LED's i guess you will have to go to nissan and bend over $$$ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/m1182.html installation guide http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...&hl=r32+led

Im planning on a power FC in the future. Can i run one without the AFM's ? Dont really mind the AFM's to be honest.. I had one go on me with the R31 but i solely blame that on K&N filter oil. Either way i need to get rid of my useless foam air filters. Cheers for the oil restrictor info slippery. Hmm import duty hey.. will investigate. As for working out whats wrong before buying stuff well im outa ideas. If theres any more suggestions for things to look at before pulling off the turbos id love to try it out. If the stock turbos are good id much rather keep em and avoid clearing out my bank acc thats for sure Is there some way to hear the turbos spool up or something. maybe one sounds different

After much procrastination. Im planning to take off the turbos and see whats what. The ceramic ones will not be going back on even if they are found to be good. MY PLAN: All parts are from Nengun unless someone knows better prices HKS GT-SS turbos AU $ 2,390.28 HKS Extension Kit - GTR $459.00 APEXi Power Intake - GTR $194.00 Can someone confirm that for me that i can install this gear without any modification. Currently stock turbos/dumps in there. Ive read some talk about ball bearing turbos needing an oil restrictor put in, is this true and would it come with the kit shown in the picture? Once all this gear is in im planning on having the boost set conservatively. I still have the stock ECU/Injectors/fuel pump. I will do all these in time but ill just be cleaning out the injectors and getting them flow tested at first. What boost would be reccomended? Will i have problems running this gear on the stock ECU? I guess i should give it a run over the dyno when im done to check the air fuel mix. Will also be making a catch can. Any input on anything is helpful! Im learning what i can here and willing to give anything a good go (as this thread should show!)

I wouldnt say rust is uncommon, ive seen quite a few now. Check the sills especially as many look like they have been lifted with a forklift or a hoist badly. The sills get crushed and rust gets in. Also for there is commonly rust around the front wheel arches where the crap from the tires hits the arch. Also check the rear guards by running your hand around it as its another common one. The boost guage is in mmhg which is why i didnt like mine. The oil pressure guage is slow to respond and showed something different every day. Yeh probably a sender fault.

Hmm. 6 to 10 k depending on what you get done on the rebuild. You really want to avoid it so get the checks on the engine done or buy a rebuilt one (and still get the checks done!) Thing is.. if you rebuild an engine you will want to use it. So that means ECU/injectors/fuel pump/coil packs/oil pump/water pump/turbos anyway. might as well do these things straight up and possibly save an engine failure in the first place. if you take it out on the track, overfil the oil by a litre (i think it was a litre). Do a search in here about this.

Buy one already in the country as you get to inspect it. There are plenty around, be patient. Engines are RB's and they can go for a long time if they are taken care of. I dont see why a gtr engine thats taken care of cant get 300'000 without a problem. I get the impression that servicing in japan is very expensive and most of them probably wouldnt get the care they deserved/oil changes and with freqeunt hard driving yes they do wear out. Most engine failures are due to insufficient oil getting around the engine on the track or the stock ceramic turbos being driven too hard and smashing apart taking the engine with it. I think this is way more common than just wearing out. Do not buy one without a Compression and a leak down test on the engine as you might be buying a dud from the start. ESSENTIAL. Aftermarket turbos are definently a good thing to look for. The stock ceramic turbos dont like to be overboosted and are wearing out by this time anyway. This could save you an engine Look for one Without those mushroom style HKS foam filters. A filter that you can see light through isnt stopping dirt getting into your engine. A set of Apexi power intakes or even the stock air box are the best at filtering. So 15 years of inadequate filtering getting dirt into the engine isnt the best. A lot of R32 gtr's have rust. You would be lucky to find one that didnt so do some searching on here to find out the common rust areas so you can inspect properly before buying. Ignore the KM's on the car as its rarely true. If you get service history and the kms match up then great otherwise look for wear on the seats/steering wheel/handbrake to get an idea of how often/hard it was driven. Things like powerFC/aftermarket turbos/upgraded fuel pump/splitfire coil packs/injectors/N1 oil and water pumps/timing belts are all mods that are worthy of paying a bit more for. Sure it means that the cars probably been driven a bit harder but these are all things that i believe should be done anways on a 15+ year old car as maintenance as the original parts are getting on. Check CV boots for splits. common and CV's and the boots may need replacing. dont bother upgrading the intercooler unless you want to get really serious with it. The stock one flows good. Aftermarket oil pressure and boost guages will be needed. stock ones suck. Check brake rotors for scoring. Brembo brakes came on the later 32 GTR's. Do a hard brake and make sure the ABS is working properly. ITs gonna cost you buddy! Hope you are prepared to take on the responsibility of fixing things often or set aside enough money to buy the car and then the do ALL the maintenance it needs straight away if its not already done. So talking about spending 5k on top of the purchase price for replacing old parts then you will have a great reliable car. Thats what i would do if i went through this again.. saying all this. they are a fantastic wonderful piece of kit

Cheers, but there is no cat so we can cancel out that. I guess there could be some restriction in the rest of the exhaust so i might drop that and see if it makes a difference. doubt the problem is there though.

ok another collection of stuff that happened last night Air leaks were almost non existent. Small one around the BOV which tightening the bolts corrected. That was a bit dissapointing as i was hoping to find something. So we also did this stuff Checked fuel pressure, went for a drive with fuel pressure guage duct taped to the windscreen. 55psi under load at WOT. It never dropped off with rpm or load. Used another boost guage for reference and got around 7 psi which means my other guage is correct. (For reference the stock boost level on a r32 gtr should be 0.8 bar /11psi) Used a air pump with a pressure guage on it and put it on the actuators for the wastegates. Both of the wastegates just start to crack open at at ~0.6bar. this seems too low? We wired the wastegates shut and went for a drive (now with 2 guages duct taped to the windscreen! ). Still refused to make over .05bar boost Checked the timing. 20degrees BTDC which is correct

Nice! Off to bunnings tomorrow. So its a case of blocking off both afm's and the exhaust and pumping in air from a compressor starting at 10psi through to no more than 20 psi and look for leaks. Ill keep yas posted Cheers! Mike

right. If i sit there for 20 mins and fill it with steel wool it should be a lot more efficient? EDIT: im gonna have a go at making one of these myself and have it so it can be opened and baffled properly.

Its back together again minus the front bar. Still runs great just no change to the boost level. I went looking for leaks in the piping / intake manifold with a can of Aerostart. Couldnt hear any change in the engine rpm. I read that when one turbo goes it means one of the inlets sucks and the other blows. Both inlets to the turbos are definently sucking air in. Didnt try out blocking off the BOV's, wasnt confident of doing so. I think im gonna give up and take it to someone who knows GTR's and see what they reckon.

ITs for a rb26 and it sits on top of the rocker cover. Im getting a bit of blow by into my rear turbo and want to stop it and also to measure how much exactly is going into the intake Seems like a nice way to go about it. Any opinions on the style/efficiency ? It aint cheap so i thought id ask

Thanks man. Ill keep posting as i find things Having fun pulling stuff apart and seeing how it all works atm. I only get a couple hours a day to really do anything. Last night i took the intercooler out and flushed it with kero/meth spirits. it does a great job! So ive got all that back in now with new hose clamps everywhere and ill start the engine again tonight and see whats what. With the BOV valve test, do you mean that i should loosen the bolts and slide a flat bit of metal in there to completely block off their exit and tighten the bolts back up?

heh.. rubber hoses are great when they get old. When one goes its time to replace the whole lot if you ask me.