hazerb30

Yeh i understand but ive trawled these forums for info on aftermarket for 32 gtr and no one seems to mention them.. maybe there is a part number that works and people are keeping it a secret. It would suck to have to get the slave off the car, its my daily driver and all ive got atm

whats the deal.. Slave cylinders should be $20-$30 yet the only ones i see on here are all genuine nissan for $95+ Yeh sure its a gtr whatever.. just dont see the need to pay so much for a basic part Has anyone managed to find aftermarket part for a r32 GTR ? Edit : its a 89 gtr so the push type for mine i guess.

Hi Slippery. No worries i like answering q's .. just wish someone knew the answer to mine yep stock guages are electrical. yep mine are 52mm Auto Meter guages. I like the 'stock' look so i used the old facia after and after a little bit of modifying the plastic they fit nicely. I just used sikaflex to keep them in place No they do not just bolt in and replace the old ones.. i wish. Because the guages came with their own sensors i thought it best to use them. I doubt the sensors for temperature/boost/pressure would be compatible with the guages so i had to install them all. Be prepared to spend a few hours if you do it yourself. Once you get the guages mounted in there you need to give them ground and 12v, thats easy just use a multimeter and check the wiring that used to go to the stock guages for 12v Accessories. For each guage there is a green sensor wire for each that needs to go to the engine bay so you have to run the cables through the firewall to where it needs to go. Boost Guage - They provide a new sensor and i tapped its hose into where the original boost sensor is. I kept the original boost sensor in there as well even though it would have been easier to remove it. I was worried the ECU might need to get a signal from the stock one. If anyone can confirm id be interested to know Oil Temp and Oil Pressure guages - Both are very important to have. The Stock R32 GTR pressure guage sucks total balls so thats why i put one here (sacrificing the original voltmeter). Now you will need a 'sandwich plate' to install the sensors for oil temp/pressure. You have to buy this seperately This one is $30 from justjap.com Both of the sensors go into the sandwich plate and it jams between the oil filter and the engine. Its not that hard. The main issue is trying to keep all the cabling neat and the other problem is the oil filter. Im sure anyone who has changed oil in a gtr knows the pain of working in that space.. it sucks. You really should consider looking at oil filter re-location kit.. they usually cancel out the need to have a sandwich plate and make changine oil a breeze. I am just a sucker for punishment. well worth it. Get rid of that annoying mmhg boost guage. Get a proper oil pressure that doesnt randomly sit on 0. and looks pretty. Ohhh.. one thing that kinda annoys me about these particular guages is they go BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP when you turn on the ignition. Its part of some start up test procedure.. some think its kool but i thought its a bit annoying. double check b4 buy cos not all of them do it

If you wanna sell the badge and you think you can get it off easy enough lemme know. ill buy it off you

i dont care if it does. As if the front grille and bonnet wasnt bad enough. Yeh im being a prick.. but for people who own the real deal and put so much time and money into them its kinda annoying. At least people in the know will spot the fake in 2 seconds

So.. i hope you will be removing the badge off the back. Otherwise yeh nice car.

Yeh the ball bearing has a cup over the top of it. In order for the seat belt to be retracted the ball bearing must be sitting in the depression below it so that the cup on top can move down fully. Its an interesting arrangement and probably the reason why it matters what angle the car is on. The solenoid is on the other side (its in picture 1) . The solenoid does not play a function in the general use of the seatbelt ( I know because mine wasnt even connected and seatbelt was working fine). But if the solenoid was turned on it would push out and allow the seatbelt to retract no matter what. Its like some sort of overide is the belt locks up. Now... why the hell is this here? What activates it ? There are 2 wires that join up to the main wiring harness and go god knows where. It would be good to know that if the belt locks up again that i could just release it with a switch or something. I also still want to find out what that comnputer looking unit is/does.

I had a problem with my seat belt it wouldnt retract so i pulled the trim off and had a look. Found some interesting things (well to me at least) First of all. What is the electronic unit near the driver side seat belt. I took it out and took photo... Whats its purpose ??? (edit:the fourth picture) I was also interested in how the seat belt worked. There is a ball bearing that needs to sit in the correct place otherwise the seat belt will not retract. There was also a cable that was not connected, it was for the solenoid on the seat belt (edit: picture 1). It looks like the solenoid when activated (by 12v?) allows the belt to retract. What turns this solenoid on?? My cable wasnt even connected when i pulled it apart but i have now plugged it in. I also took a photo of the 3 new guages i put in. AutoGuage's and i replaced the stock guages in the factory location. I hope this all makes sense cos i got a bit drunk

heh.. that was a honest mistake ! still didnt make it. monday now

cant understand that. If i was going to buy a LCD screen it would be a Samsung or a Sony Bravia. Samsung produce the highest quality panels out there and are frequently used in other brands TV's... only if they pay the price to use their technology. Take a look at computer LCD's, samsung are the best by a county mile. The sony bravia uses the samsung panels and with their bravia technology as well its a great picture (just make sure you adjust the colours as they are waaaay to vibrant on stock settings, people dont look natural) The way i understand it is, when they produce the LCD panels they get graded according to how well they came out. The best quality panels go to samsung for their own tv's / computer screens and the not so good ones go to other monitor manufacturers. Cant go past samsung for quality. I wouldnt buy sony just because i hate the company and have had quite a few bad experiences with their other product lines (ie: car stereo!) Saying all that.. i have much love for the Plasma. Pioneer plasmas are well worth the extra money. Good long warranty and they will come out and install it for you. If your panel breaks they will give you a replacement while yours is being fixed. The new generation plasmas (i dont know if they are available here yet) have much much better blacks than the previous gen If you want to run a computer HTPC.. do your research on a place like xpmediacentre.com.au.. some monitors can be a real bitch with computer resolutions...

Yeh me too, Wilkinson Suspensions right ? Im so slack..your just down the road from me right now

Do your auto guages make the beep noise when they turn on ? Otherwise yeh, im happy with mine. Got oil Temp, boost and Oil Pressure (cos r32 gtr oil pressure guages suck the big one) They are all mounted in the stock location.. i dont like the guages everywhere look. Might get a photo later and post up

I just bought 3. i have no questions over their accuracy.. my main gripe is when you turn the ignition on they make this beeeeeeeeeeeep noise as the needle maxes out. its gay.. not all of them do this so double check before you buy

You have a 1000w Amp! Well then yeh.. that bastards going to need a lot of power. Big thick cables running to it. Capacitors would be essential or the extra battery in the boot suggestion.

Ive never used a cap so cant advise you there I would get better guage cable to the amp and to the ground. I had the same problem. If caps really are no good, put another battery in the boot. Would be cheaper too. Or just think.. do you really need 2 x 12" subs.

I hit a roo with my old r31.. big bastard. i must have broken its hips or something as it was just stuck in the middle of the road making this awful hissing noise. Scary bastard! Eventually he got a 22 to the head. poor thing

Yeh thats what i thought as well ryan. Im going through some missfiring problems on my gtr at the moment as well. This is under the assumption that the coil pack from cylinder 3 would actually fit in cylinder 1. I cant see why it wouldnt

Yeh i hear ya. I want a little bit more from my 32 gtr but i really enjoy having a reliable ride that i know exactly whats going on with it. Apexi power fc / tune for better fuel econ Cam gears flushed injectors Tinting Exhaust thats not falling apart Bilstein suspension package on here Headlights that actually illuminate something Turbos that arent 18 years old Some lighter wheels Lighter seats too.. to me it seems r32 gtr seats are excessively heavy Kaaz diff 4WD adjustable Switch New clutch I reckon $11,000 would cover it :S Oh.. remove HICAS and ABS as well (still considering ABS removal)

Im down, i work in osborne park too Good work!

I had some crap on my windscreen that refused to come off after 20 washes. Just got a clay bar for the paintwork so i thought id try it out on the windscreen. Worked well

When you say all globes.. even H3C for the projectors in some r32 gtr's ? If so, im interested

So no aftermarket computer ? When you run it on a dyno were the fuel mixtures within range?

BOB Beast of Burden

i want fire put out thing too. been meaning to get one since i got the car need some brackets or something to mount it though

Yeh ive got a r32 gtr and just finished putting in 3 auto meter guages in last night! (boost, oil temp, oil pressure) They all look spot on to me. And yeh, original guage was in mmhg which meant nothing (to me at least) . Milligrams of mercury or something On a side note, do your auto meter guages make this freakin annoying beeeeeeeep sound when you turn on the ignition ? Part of some 'test' feature im guessing when you first turn them on. its so shit Also... does anyone know if the stock boost sensor is required for the ECU to operate correctly ? Now that i have aftermarket boost sensor/guage i dont see the need to keep the stock one unless the ECU needs it to run the engine efficiently