Glennno

Cheers. Will hit up google for a guide on getting the light assembly out.

Ah sorry, should have explained a little better. In the photo below, im talking about the individual white light strips directly under the 2 x round brake lights. The white strips where the indicators live. Mine on the left hand side is filling up with water from rain. http://www.skylinespares.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/IMAG0764.jpg

Beautiful, champion. Something else someone might be able to help with (Yes, i have a list of things to sort)... The white strip under my rear left hand tail light leaks and i get water in there.. Can this strip be replaced or must the entire rear left tail light unit be replaced?

So i dont need to open another topic that has likely been covered.. It seems theres a vacuum line at the back of the intake manifold and the front.. What would be better for tapping in for my boost gauge? (Getting a digital one)

After a little thinking, i think my idea will be as follows - Disconnect the actuator from the wastegate flap and figure out a way to wire the wastegate flap shut... This should then allow me to boost higher than 14PSI and if not, i have another issue.

Wow awesome.. thats lifted my spirits a little knowing that it could definitely be the issue. If you put an 18PSI actuator on, wouldnt the minimum boost be 18PSI, not the 14PSI? Also, got a link to an actuator that might bolt directly to my GT3071R? Im not sure what will and wont fit, if it needs to be turbo-specific etc.

This would achieve working out at what pressure the wastegate opens. It may or may not prove that the wastegate is the culprit though? I guess if it opens at 6PSI, its likely to be the issue.. If it opens at 10PSI or higher, then likely not going to be the issue?

The BOV is a turbosmart Plumb back and the car flutters when i let off the accelerator.. I have a feeling the BOV wouldnt be leaking? Is there any way to find out the waste gate actuator spring rating? it is indeed internal. Couldnt see any model or marking on it with it installed. Someone suggested getting a compressor or bike pump with inline gauge to pump into it but, this seems like a lot of mucking around. I'd be happy enough to replace the actuator if i knew what exactly to purchase. End of the day, could sell it if it makes no difference at all.

"If the spring is too soft, even with no pressure signal to the actuator, the valve will open if there is enough exhaust back pressure, which will limit the amount of boost produced by the turbocharger." - Turbosmart Website.

Another question 4. Could the actuator for the turbo's wastegate be too low of a spring and actually have the wastegate open at around 14PSI if it were too weak? Could i be bleeding all my pressure out the ass end due to a failing or too-low of an actuator spring? Was just a thought on an R33 Facebook page.

Thanks guys... Couple questions 1. Where does my MAP sensor live? how much of the intake can i remove and still run the car? 2. With removing the intake pipe to check the turbo, is this to check shaft play? 3. I can leave the dump and front pipe connected and remove the cat and the catback. Would i then take it for a quick drive and see if i can exceed boost? if this fails, remove actuator boost line and test again? Thanks guys, would be a shame if the turbo had failed but i guess anything is possible.

Hi, Recently took my R33 to my tuner after recently purchasing the car for some tuning as it had cold start issues. Other than this, it ran well for me. Tuner called to say car is making less power than I mentioned was on previous owners dyno sheets. Facts: - car hits 14PSI and then drops off as car revs increase (tuner said this indicates a flow issue). - cat converter is s high flow and looks brand new when looking through it. - cam timing is perfect - removed boost line to try get turbo to free spool - no increase in boost. Boost still lowers as revs increase (also indicates flow issues?) Car specs: - 97 R33 manual - Haltech platinum pro ECU with MAP sensor and 02 sensor disabled and unplugged but left in dump to act as a bung. - K&N pod filter with custom alloy intake pipe - GT3071 with .86 housing low mounted - 3" dump and front pipe combined (single piece) - high flow cat in new condition. 3.5" HKS Hi Power silent catback with 2 x hot dogs. - Blitz return flow intercooler. - Plumb back turbo smart BOV. (Car is fluttering, so isn't leaking) - Profec B Spec II boost controller with dual stage. Setting 1 is rather mild, setting 2 is the 14PSI setting and makes 310-330HP - Has typical supporting fuel system and mods etc. I'd love some help in things to try looking for... Is it worth looking at the waste gate actuator? Pulling the intercooler piping apart to find something restricting it? Pulling the exhaust apart? Running it with no pod filter? Removing and inspecting the turbo itself? All mods were made in 2012 with brand new parts by original owner and installed and tuned by a performance workshop. Motor was compression tested then and was fine. Motor seems to run well and sound good other than the cold start issues that I sill have. Hunts for revs for 2 seconds and stalls. Second start is perfect. Going to get s brand new tune performed but also want to fix this not boosting issue. Thanks

Thanks all! I think im going to go the Remsa's through Brakes Direct!

Think im going to go the Remsa's!

Thanks, will definitely check out that link! Had a look at the Intima SR but, slightly out of budget.. Had a quick chat to Brakes Direct and they suggested Resma pads as being better than Bendix Ultimate and better than the QFM HPX for $96. Apparantly they are good for 650 degrees. Might look into these!

Hey all, Chasing some new front brake pads. Not sure what are on there at the moment, but they are making a lot of noise. Looking for front pads (R33 GTST) for daily driving and spirited daily driving. I won't be on a track but will appreciate good pads. I've come down to the following models but cant make heads and tails of them. - Bendix Heavy Duty - $72 - Bendix Ultimate - $119 - Ferodo TQ Performance - $65 - Brembo $70 - QFM HPX - $79 - QFM A1RM - $104 Feel free to cast your vote or throw another make and model into the list. These are just what i found on eBay. I've heard that A1RM's may be overkill. Have been told the HPX's will be good. Have been told that Bendix are great and also by other people that they are not as great as the competition, so clearly some Bendix fans and haters. Cheers guys.

Thoughts on the 3A Racing pod's? Have heard some good things about them.

I recently saw this on gumtree online and thought it was pretty pricey for the lack of mods. (Mind you, you pay more for unmodified cars sometimes) and ended up paying $10k for an R33 (Which i still thought was too much) But, had $15k worth of performance receipts in 2012 and has so far been a great car. Would have hated to buy a car for nearly the $15k and then spend another $15k over time modding it. Now i only need to worry about maintenance as it has everything i want, already done. EDIT: Also, from experience when i got my S14 ADM, they wanted $4k per year.. Just insure it 3rd party until the premiums drop down. Im now 23 and have my R33 insured for $800 per year including all mods through Just Cars.

I have an R33 with a GT3071R and Haltech ECU and making 360HP at 16PSI on 98 pump fuel. Hope this gives an idea of power levels. Should make more than me. I have Nismo 555cc injectors and a 260LPH fuel pump. Same intercooler as you and a HKS turbo back 3". I think 360HP works out around 270KW.

Thanks! I had a bit of a look last night, the back piece of the rear seats was just chilling, wasnt bolted down but it was pretty dark so i'll have to get that sorted.. Couldnt stop the rattle but in saying that, in the dark, wasnt able to work out how to get the parcel shelf out either. Will likely leave it for a sunny weekend and perhaps grab some double side foam tape or something on anywhere that looks like it could rattle! Its so annoying D: ALMOST as annoying as my starting issues. Also found a small amount of rust in the boot where the spare tyre is meant to sit so, will be learning rust converter first hand!

Might leave it for now and when i next head to Perth, have a chat to the tuner and see if he can get the start up issue sorted. Id say it is just fueling. On another note - Rear parcel shelf rattle - Is this a common thing? Anything quick and easy to check? Had my Mrs in the back and when she put her arm on the parcel shelf in general, it stopped. Are there any parcel shelf mounts? I hopped in there while we were stationary and theres some plastic right at the back on the parcel shelf, dead in the centre... If i wobbled it with my hand, it made a noise that sounded like it could be the culprit. Not sure what it is.

Ive checked the receipts and it does already have an intake air temp sensor put into the cold pipe at the exact same time the Haltech went in, so i would say that is all fine. Are you able to show me an example of a wideband O2? Whenever im looking, all i find are sensors that come with a gauge but, im fairly confident i need one that hooks into the Haltech and have no idea what im looking for! If i were to get the Wideband O2, would the Haltech then need to be re-tuned and setup for it?

Would an intake air temp sensor not have been installed with the Haltech? I remember reading there was some sort of sensor added at the time of the Haltech going in as they had to make up wiring for what ever it was! Am i right to forget about a wideband O2 sensor to replace the narrowband or should i still get that sorted? Not made of money but, want the car to be running as well / safely as it can

Oh that is really cool. So, me thinking that this car obviously has had a Z32 AFM / MAF is stupid thinking I guess that means that the K&N is safe to stay in my engine bay. I would definitely think it is tune related after seeing that it previously had cold start issues. Hopefully a local tuner can sort it. (When i say local, i mean, i have to drive 400KM on a week day and take time off work to get it looked at and then drive the whole distance back). Any other cool information that you can tell me about my car that i dont already know? haha

Could my issue AT ALL be related to a dirty AFM / MAF or would i have issues above 1500RPM? Car has a K&N and i always thought the oiled filters were bad. Might throw a dry 3A Racing on.