Nissinja

The GT25/30 has been sent away to be born again. Should be peeling tyres again later in the week

Thanks for all the info. Good read. Sounds like I may as well stick with the GT25/30 for now. Like I said I don't have any problems with it at the top end. Are there any decent twin-turbo SR20s around? Would there be any significant gains in response/low end? Or more hassle than it's worth? Edit: To the above, I have no preference to brand; are there any good rivals in the low end response catagory?

Needs a rebuild. Just thought as it's off the road and I'm spending money anyway, might be a good time to upgrade if there's a better option. From the sound of things though, the GT25/30 sounds like it's pretty spot on though for the most response. I'm starting to think more low end grunt might come from something like a different cam setup or something. There's definately a VTEC style change of character when the car goes from Dr Jenkyl to Mr Hyde somewhere between 4 and 5k. If only there was a VVTi kit for them or something

Thanks guys. The car is a daily so power down lower is better. I also like the kick of quick spooling. My GT25/30 was running at 18psi and made 210rwkw with supporting mods (550s etc.). I was getting plenty of go from around 4k all the way up to the limitor which it hit with no sign of relenting. There's plenty on the top end after the limitor I can't use which I'd like to trade for more down low if you get what I mean. Pretty happy with it as is though (but happiness is in its pursuit...).

I've got a GT25/30 which needs reconditioning. I'm dicing up whether to recondition or spend a little more on a GT2872R. I love the performance I've gotten from the GT25/30; the response is great. Is the GT2872R any less responsive and is it a great deal better? Also, I've been quoted around $800 for the reconditioning on the GT25/30. Is that reasonable? And what should one pay for a GT2872R? I've seen some older adverts offering new ones for around $1,500 which seems quite good value to me. Response is probably the most important thing for me. I was making a bit over 200rwkw on the GT25/30 which was more than my wheels could handle already. I won't say no to more power though

That shouldn't matter should it? I don't believe there are any States who still have the P/W thing so N/A should be fine anyway. The Autechs are a little more than 165ps I think. More like 200 (Edit: that's circa 150kw for you to calculate the P/W). You may be able to legally squeeze into a turbo ADM S15 that's dead stock. A better chance in a luxury pack S14 as they're slightly heavier. RWKW are around 110-120 (can drive a turbo less than 100kw/ton I'm pretty sure).

From what I hear, the police don't seem to care much. People on red Ps in Victoria get defected for hole in the battery tray and don't get done for turbo on Ps. Like hello? Officer? Anyway, get an Integra Type R for your Ps, it'll hold its value decently and you'll never have another excuse to buy a FWD sports car again. Most P-platers seem to forget that ANY modifications that affect performance are illegal and carry the same penalty as driving a turbo but most don't get hassled. I'm sure if you had a completely stock car, with stock wheels and lights and seats etc. and without a memorable custom numberplate you'd get away with it. I've always been curious as to whether you could get away with a GTST as an old one would be under their 100kw/tone thing; certainly at the wheels which is how you'd provide evidence etc. Doesn't affect me anymore anyway...

We should group buy a house in QLD and register all our cars there

If you buy a standard car, I'd imagine it's gonna cost you more to turn it into that thing rather than pulling the mods off for compliance then reinstalling. You can also install them over an extended period of time and learn the differences each part makes. Makes the car last longer as when you get bored you can make it a little faster. Or just sell the parts... The downside is you're probably getting something that's been driven hard regularly. I guess it depends whether you want to deal with the hassle. But if you want a car that modified it's gonna be a hassle however you do it and probably less of a hassle getting it this way than worrying about building it yourself and the setups and not what and buying all the parts new.

I've always wanted a first gen Thunderbird and never been anywhere near affording one until now. Some great muscle cars too. Good alternaitves to being defected. In the UK, I'm really liking the super affordable TVRs and Lotuses (Loti? haha). I could so do a Tuscan I've checked, no one does compliance for them. Is there anyway possible to import one without eating chips in hamburgers for 12 months? A cheap Griffith, Elise or Espirt might get my money too.

I'm interested to know how you go about finding good contacts/brokers in America and Europe etc. The dollar is making stuff in England and America damn attractive at the moment. I'm interested to know how I go about getting a car from a seller to the docks. Get a proper pre-purchase inspection done etc. I guess it's not the same as Japan as most cars aren't sold at auction. I want to know how when I'm looking on Hemmings or autotrader, how I get that car; there's always one that's easily the best value.

If say I found an awsome, RB26 powered 180SX someone had spent their life's savings on for say $10-15,000, how hard would it be to get here, comply, then remodify? And, would it be cheaper and easier to swap all the bits into a cheap one here so that they basically ended up with different vin numbers (read carefully)? Any pros and cons folks would like to discuss on the second method?

If you can't notice wheel wobble when you're driving it then how bad is 'not that bad?' You don't notice wheel wobble in a Cadillac, which are great fun to drive in their own way, but modern cars don't have the same feel. They should be precise. For ye mum; 7 Series? Audis are good value too. Audi A4 Quattro? Some A6s around there too. An early A8 if you like petrol stations. The A4 Wagons look pretty slick in black with chrome roof racks. If you really like petrol stations you could go for a 1980s Mercedes SEC. Maybe a 500SEC? 560s are a bit more money. VVTi conversion. I read a thread on it ages ago but can't find it anywhere. Apparently you can fit the VVTi gear to a non-VVTi Supra. Anyone got any clue who hard/much it would be? Like I said, I'm planning to keep it closer to stock so the argument that the VVTi isn't as good for making big power is of no concern as if I wanted a 1,000hp monster I'd do it properly and put a 350 chev into a Fiat 500. Bolisimo... The most I'd be chasing is 400-450hp 'one day.' But I want to keep it quiet on the highway so even that might be difficult. If I find myself with deep enough pockets for a full build I'd probably get a second one (or an NSX).

If you like that Jag, check this out: S-Type If you want bling, like Hummers and write "Only tasteful mods" in your carsales ads then maybe a Jag isn't for you. Great cars to drive though. And I'm not comparing them to a GTR, I'm comparing them to a V8 Lexslush. If you like the LS400 you'll like a modern Jag

Did. Was only slightly more expensive than my S14 thus far and had it four times as long. Reliability was absolutely no problem. Just don't go to Jaguar. Downshire Motors on Waverly Rd is way better and specialise in new Jags (got all the computer software etc.). $400 for a major (110,000Ks) that Jag wanted $2,200 for. Sold it 'cause I couldn't stand the auto; otherwise, great car. Not recomending you go get a big, automatic, luxury sedan but, if you do feel so inclined... Correct. It actually shares a chassis with the Lincoln LS. Nothing to boast about but not a Mondeo (which was car of the year you may remember). They used the S-Type platform for the new XK and XF. The handling and rip your face off brakes suprised all passengers. They'd keep up with a good E46 anyday and probably outbrake all but an M3 (some serious anchors).