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RedDrifter

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Everything posted by RedDrifter

  1. At idle it should be 1.1-1.2 volts. cruising around 2.5 volts or there abouts. On boost and up in the revs it should be around 4.5 volts or more depending on your mods etc. The max voltage is 5.12 volts.
  2. As mentioned earlier stick it on a dyno. A f'd fuel pump can also cause the lack of power and torque.
  3. I would go with the kinchrome tools. Seems to be best bang for your buck in my opinion. You can get them from Bunnings etc. Really good quality and prices are very reasonable. Also do a google for transcript direct as thats where I got alot of stuff recently.
  4. Yeah the tachos are more of a guide tool rather than an accurate instruement.
  5. Yeah I used my mate blatz usb cable on my car many times with great success. It is by far a sweet bit of hardware and software. U can even use it for fuel and ign map tracing etc. though this only works on the later R32 ecu model MEC R212 B. (RB20DET)
  6. I know this is off the topic and I don't wanna ijack the thread but could someone tell me what the inlet diameter of the Rb20/25 turbo is?
  7. Yes however I am unsure if the R33 afm pinouts are the same as the z32 or the R20.
  8. Yeah its not to difficult. All you need is a 12 volt power supply, a fan and a multimetter. Hook the power supply positive to pin 5 and the negative to pin 3. Now hook the multimeter positive lead to pin 2 and the ground lead to pin 4. You should once power is put the the afm see a voltage of around 0.5volts with no air flow. Now turn on the fan and see if the voltage increases to around 2.5 volts. This could be more or less depending on how much air the fan will blow. A variable speed fan is best as it allows you to test the afm at different levels of air flow (more air more voltage). The pin out of the afm is the same as the RB20 unit so if you get confused have a look at http://rb20det.com/air_flow_meter_pinout.html Hope this helps
  9. Yeah Pics would be nice
  10. I got one of the XSPower RB20/25 low mount stock position manifolds and it wasn't really the best. Got a hairline crack witch lukily I could see and get welded up ok. I have notice one of the support welds has cracked. Car sounded better at idle and that was about it. Gonna put the stock manifold back soon. As said before "you get what you pay for"
  11. The Italians didn't impress me much at all. Very sad they had to stoop so low to win. Fifa really need to sort out this sort of shit in football as its ruining the game. Ask me you take a dive and get caught "Red card" problem solved.
  12. Arh that was the page I was looking for. Anyway thanks guys got what I needed now. Regards. Dan
  13. Yes well I was doing that this morning and the sight was having issues at the time so I was unable to get the part #. But it appearsto be working ok now. So yeah I was actually looking hard enough!
  14. All I need is the part number for the NGK 0.8mm gapped plugs for the Rb20DET As its time for replacing the plugs once more. I know this has been asked eleventy billion times and all but I have done the search and cannot find what I am after. Thanx guys.
  15. Come on Aussie! Come on! Come on! Go the Green and gold. F'n Hell yeah!!!!!!!
  16. U can have it either way.I had mine inline until I upgraded the turbo and intake. its vented to atmo atm. I would use a filter as if the police see it not filtered u most likely will get defected. As this is very illegal.
  17. Ah thats kool sorry. It was late and I misunderstood you. I do that from time to time.
  18. Yeah it was a bit like that hey!
  19. My god the Aussies are playing well.
  20. If you look closely you will see that I took out the pcv and replaced it with a bolt. And there is nothing wrong with the setup I have.
  21. Ahh cool that explains it. Thanx.
  22. He is a atmo vented Sard catch can.
  23. I found that on the RB20 I fried (due to a bad fuel pump and 16psi of boost) that pot one was the one that melted and pots 2 and 3 were scorched(very badly). Why would this be different to what I have been reading here?
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