RedDrifter

Yeah some pics would be sweet as. I am going to use this kit soon too with the turbo upgarede I will be doing too. I am guessing it would bolt up to the stock airbox etc aswell?

1st) 1984 Toyota 4 runner. (Wrote it off) 2nd)1990 Pintara TRX. (Gave it to my brother) 3rd)1992 R32 GTS-T. (Still have it atm)

You could go the HKS GTRS. Well thats the choice for me in a few months anyway. Good for 250 odd rwkws and is supposidly to have sfa lag. Will let you all know soon as I do the upgrade.

Yeah you have a point and all just I have the apexi pod etc just I want it to be sheilded and hidden from sight. Pods are not the best thing to be seen in the engine bay in NSW.

Dicksmith or jaycar sell them for sfa. You wont need an ultra fine tip just the common ones found at the above places. When I get a chance I will put up a diy to fix an afm with pics and everything. Most likely after easter when I get my car back. When/if u change to z32 afm you can actually use the same procedure to swap over the afm plugs so the Z32 plugs staright into you stock loom. Anyway enough of me rambleing on have fun and good luck.

Damn thats looks nice so Like what he said. Whats the topstage url?

Dont bother buying a new one the old can be fix fairly easily and cheap. Just get a nife and cut the top rubber seal out and remove the plastic cover.(Take your time as its a pain in the neck). Then once the top is removed you will see a copper cover that is soldered onto the afm's circuit board box(also copper) Just desolder its join and take it out. Now where the plug is you will see that it has 5 pins that go into a fork like peice of metal. It is soldered to this and these joints tend to fail and require resoldering. Use a fine tipped soldering iron and resolder these joins. This fixes the afm probs 9 times out of ten. Once done test it and if ok resilicon the top in and away you go. I have done this to:- my afm R32 My brothers AFM R32 My mates Subaru Liberties afm And my mates 300xz afm and it has fixed them all. If you know you afm is farked then give it ago as you will have nothing to loose. Good luck and hope this helps.

Sweet they look ausome. Pm me your account details aswell and the full (including frieght) cost to get them to NSW 2130.

Its looks like a cusco RS too me. Looks identical to mine in my R32. I think it can be paulled aprt and the casing set up to become a 1 way or a 2 way from memory. check this link it may help. http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_lsd.html

OK guys people are asking about the heavy stearing when the hicus and hicus ec is removed. Does anyone know what causes the steering to be heavier etc? Wouldn't this be as simple as finding the corect wire (hicus ecu loom) and roughting it to 12v or ground or what ever it requires to run the steering lighter? Surely this prob can be rectified?

I've done the RX-7 (red top) conversion and its not too hard to do. Best bet is to buy new injector plugs (round the $35 mark new for all six). Then you You can get the correct crimpers from dicksmith for the plug pins(round 12 bucks or so). I acually used new wires for the new plugs and then just cut of the old plugs and soldered the new plugs onto the loom. As for fitting the injectors into the rail. They can be squeezed into the rail with out mods but its a real squeeze . I would recomend getting the rails holders boared slighty to make it an easyer fit. Also these injectors are a slight pain to get a stable idle at stock rpm (650rpm) When I did this I set it to idle (on the stock ecu)to the stock GTR idle (950rpm) and it worked fine. Hope this helps.

What did you do about the front diff/sump etc?

So if you actually run very retarded timing it can cause the fuel mix to burn very late while leaving the cylinder and hence a sort of antilag? Hmmmmmmmm I can see how this would work.

What sort of fuel pump are you using? Unless you fuel pump is capable to flowing enough fuel to hold solid rail pressure at higher injector dudty cycle you will see it start to lean out. Also if u are using the stock afm that may cause a problem as it may be maxing out aswell.

I would agree. It is amazing the difference good fuel does. I also would think that Running 11.2 is very safe but it will be contributing to the missing power aswell.

Sounds like a "trade secrect" to me mate. Oh well.

This is the map I am running at the moment. Seems to be still a little conservative but I am not game to run any more just yet. RB20DET_IGN.bmp The AFR's are around 11.8 after 4000rpm.

Thats not quite true. Though u are close. I use the stock ecu and with conzult it will pick up any detonation. It will spit out a knock sensor fault(code 34) if knock goes past the set level. I have had it spit out the code well after 5k and it will pick it up well before you will hear it too. It will still pick up knock well into the revs. On the ecu's ignition maps the ecu has a knock(self learn) area but this area is where it will keep increasing timing till knock then back it off a bit(self learning area). And this area is in the lower part of the revs (4000rpm and less).

I allways wondered if you could bore out the RB20 Block to fit pistons the same bore as a RB25 and then use the RB25DE head (R32). Round 2.3-4 lires and my god how it would rev. Mmmmmnnnn Back to reality. :-)

Mate It could be from over advanced ignition somewhere in the power fc map. I have seen this before with a mates RB20. Ignition was so over advanced it wasn't detonatiing but rather not ignighting at all. Just another thing for thought. Good luck.

discopotato03: Last year I just made the mistake on going for sheer power and well my 1st post explains the prob. :-) Just don't want to make the same mistake twice. But anyhow thanx for all your advise as its appreciated. To everyone else thanx also for your ideas and I'll let you all know on what I decide and how it goes in the end.

What is the garrett equivelant? I had a look at the garrett sight and found the GT2871R to be close to the GTRs specs. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_472560_15.htm they rate it at 385HP. Do the HKS turbos use more blades or something like that?

OK I translated the HKS site ( http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...rs/ac_gtrs.html ) on altavista bablefish. ( http://babelfish.altavista.com/ ) And I managed to get these specs for gtrs. Power ------- 400 ps Front Compressor A/R = 0.60 Trim = 52 Entrance diameter (mm) = 51.2 mm Major diameter (mm) =71.1 mm Rear Turbine A/R = 0.64 Trim = 76 Major diameter = 53.8 mm Exit diameter = 47.0 mm I'm dont really know much about this sort of stuff but maybe someof the turbo gurus could comment? Going on the HKS Site this turbo is supposed to be as reponsive as a GT2530 but with the top of a GT2540. So 240 to 250 rwks? Is this just a marketing gimick or does this sound right?

Ok I have a few simple q's here. At the moment I have an its Turbo wich makes good power (approx 230rwkws) but my god its a laggy beast. I get the kick in the back at 4500rpm and dont get full boost 16 psi till 6k I want to still be able to achieve this power level but I would like some little mid range back. The HKS GTRS seems to be the way I am leaning towards. How laggy are these on the RB20? And I have heard they are good for max 250rwkws? Is there anything else I would need to know about it? My current mods are:- RX7 550cc injector, Blitz FMIC, bosch 040 fuel pump, Z32 afm, Remapped ecu, Oil catch can, etc so supporting this sorta power is fine. Thanx guys.

Just curious but what injectors did u end up upgradeing too? Anyway free bump.