RedDrifter

Thats kool. I have been thinking quite a bit today about just getting the fronts done and with you advice I'd say only the fronts will be what I need. Thanx.

Just need to find out if the dba 4909's and dba 4908's are the correct rotors for the 92 R32 gts-t RB20det as I wish to get some slotted rotors all round.

For 16PSI (Lowboost) Set-->65 Gain-->19 SetGain--> 0 For 20psi (High Boost) Set--> 75 Gain--> 12 SetGain--> 0 On a cold night you may need to increase the gain. On a hot night you may need to decrese the gain.

These bc's are very good controllers just a real pain to use if your new to them. It took me ages to work out mine.

Ok this should help get rid of any confusion. Set:- This is the max duty cycle the solenoid will run. Think of it as how much air it will bleed off. e.g. 20% will bleed of approx 20% of the pressureised air. Gain:- This is how fast the boost controller will allow the solinoid to go from o% duty to the set duty cycle. This seting will bring the turbo on faster or slower etc. SetGain:- The boost controller will bleed 100% air off till the set pressure and then just run the setting of set and gain (1st 2 points). Ok The best way to set up the controller is to turn setgain to zero to start with. Then adjust the set to your desired level of duty cycle. 20% should add approx 20% more boost than the set spring on your waste gate actuator. Now start at 35% gain and go for a blat in third (on the highway). No all you need to do is keep dropping the gain till the boost stats to spike and back it off a little. (too lower gain setting and the boost will spike, Too higher gain and the boost will come on to slow and/not reach the correct boost level.) Once you get your boost comming on hard and staying constant just increase the setgain now untill it starts to spike and then just back it off. Hope this helps and good luck. Oh yeah, Also make sure your stock boost control solenoid is disconnected from the system.

You could be bringing the turbo on too quick and its having a megga fit. What are your settings on the profect? Gain, set, & SetGain?

Item: ITS Turbo T3 Suited to R32/R33 Location: Townsville Item Condition: Good condition Been on Veh for 8 months @ 16psi Reason for Selling: The turbo is little big for my application. (Rated@ 500hp) Price and Payment Conditions: $1500 firm plus frieght. (Cost me 3k From UAS.) Extra Info: This turbo comes with the required oil line to fit R32/R33(origional water lines match up.)It bolts up to manifold and dump, though a spacer will need to be made up as the compressor housing hits the ext manifold. You will require an intake to be made up as the stock rubber one is to small in diameter. The turbo is a little laggy (kicks hard at 4500rpm and pulls hard to 8000rpm. Would be sweet on an RB25. Contact Details: Conatact me via PM Thanks Guys

The RB25 housing being a garrett unit will most likely fit ok. I'm going to try the same with my ITS turbo. As for decent manifolds go to http://www.ssautochrome.com they have nice stuff fairly cheap. Cheers mate.

I have an RB20DET Gear box that I pulled out of my R32. Second gear syncro's are stuffed and it will need new bearings aswell. I need to get it out of the shed so its free(Pick up only). Location --> Townsville

Really would like to get my hands on one asap. Thanx.

Bugger the GTR-s was the one I should have got. How efficent would one be at 20psi on a RB20 ?

Ok I am aware that the ecu controls the voltage of the fuel pump to allow the fuel pump to have two different speeds(Low load then High load). I think this is done by controling the ground of the pump. All am I need to know is if this is right and which colour wire I need to ground to the chassis to allow the pump to run at full 12 volts all the time. Thanx guys.

My brother just put one of the XS split dumps from ssautochrome onto his R32 and it has made quite a nice difference. The stock turbo is produceing quite a bit more torque and the car is definately reving harder now. I have a split XS dump sitting at home that I am going to put on even though I have the 3" dump on the car already but its not a split one though.

Elbow + R33 turbo. Thats all u need my friend.

Yeah it will with the help of a bench drill or a die grinda Thats what I did till I got my hands on a RB25 elbow.

I had this with a really clogged up pod filter. Cleaned it and it was sweet again.

Ive done the swap aswell and you will find a god increase in power for the same boost. If your not using a bc make sure you swap over the Actautors as the Rb25 one is set around 5psi from memory and the RB20 is set at 10 psi i think. As jas/slo32 said its quite easy to do.

Check all Your gasket on the manifold, turbo and waste gate. I had a similar problem when I blew a t3 gasket and not mater what the bc did turbo would only run 13psi max. Boost also came on later and no where near as hard. Just a thought. Hope you sort it out.

RedDrifter checking in. The only Marroon R32 GTS-t. Though there is a Marroon GTS-4 here. I'll be here till Dec then movin to Sydney.

Thats the exact turbo I have on my RB20. Dont get the rush till 4500rpm And full boost is not till 6k. Would be much better on RB25. I made 225rwks@16psi (11.7:1 afr) Rear AR is .48 too

Hey simple Q Here guys. This turbo kit would bolt up to the RB20 aswell? How laggy would anyone expect it to be on a RB20. Thanx.

I agree the www.zeitronix.com a/f ratio meter rocks Helped e out something cronic.

My 32 came with a 4.11 ratio and I was under the impression the GTS-4 was the 4.3 ratio. I also thought the GTR was a 4.11 aswell?

Kool thanx champ I have a set of BCPR6EIX-11 and split fire coils but anything over 18psi and it will start to miss a bit.

Anyone be able to tell me the part numer for the Iridium NGK plugs that are 8mm gapped rather than 1.1mm(BCPR6EIX-11)?