RedDrifter

I already have the RB25DE motor (picked it up for a song and the bloke threw in an engine stand as well) and its almost stripped (well Bottom End is anyway) . I'll have the crank out tonight and remove the oil and water pump etc. I'll organize it to be prepped sometime this week/next week, time permitting at work of course. I'm not chasing RB30 mountain moving Torque but rather I'm trying a balanced setup. The Rb20 with the GT-RS in my r32 already has the GT-R Injectors and a returned ecu, all supporting mods for max output from the turbo. The idea was for me to have a motor a little bigger and to look identical to the RB20. I love the sleeper appeal. I am hoping for a more balance setup with a a better bottom end and a better midrange with out to much top end reduction. The RB30DET wasn't what I was after a little its a little too torquey. I think the Rb25DE+T will be a great setup if I do it right.

Basically I am in the process of pulling down an R32 GTS25 RB25DE and getting it ready for a fairly basic rebuild to replace my RB20DET engine. I will be bolting on my HKS GT-RS turbo thats on the rb20 at present and Really will only be chasing the max 450 odd Hp that the turbo can produce. Basically I am new to engine rebuilds and I have be wanting to do a build up for years and to do most of it myself. The final build will be as follows. Head Basic clean and prepped for the following. Cams - Tomei 256's or 260's 8.5 mm lift Lash Type (Undecided yet) New Performance Valve springs Valves - standard size. Head gasket - GT-R (standard thickness) Head studs - ARP New set of Hydrolic liftors from states (Maybe depends if old ones clean up ok) Engine RB25DET forged Pistons 8.5:1 CR (CP Pistons ??) Rods stock ones (These are GT-R rods in this engine) Crank Stock RB25 Bearings will be all ACL - RB25 Rods and RB25 Crank Tomei Oil restrict orifices N1 Oil Pump N1 Water Pump Crank Collar ARP Rod Bolds ARP Main studs Timing Belt - Nismo or Tomei Sump to be modified to Have trap doors etc. Gaskets - Genuine except head gasket. Hoses - All silicon where possible and genuine otherwise. I have a few q's to ask. The block does not have oil squirter's so do I need to get the pistons ceramic coated or will it be fine because of them being forged? Should I use a Normal water pump as the N1's are known to cavetate a bit at idle causing over heating? What other things do I need to know about ? What basic things need to be done to the block and head for Preparation? Which cams do people thinkI use 256's or 260's? What other things have I missed I need to know about? Thanks Guys

I bought the kit from Nengun 4 years ago when the AUD was strong against the yen. Picked the kit up for a real good price. The turbo is as big as you would want to go for a street RB20. Response vs power output is incredible.

I live in the north as well and own a wine red R32 GTS-T. I Have owned this car for about 10 years nows. I just can't let go. Mods - PWR radiator, GTR Injectors, z32 afm, Bosch 040, Returned ecu, HKS GT-RS turbo, Tein SS Jap spec suspension with EDFC, cusco LSD 2-way. Engine is healthy but is leaking oil out of tapet covers again Grrr. Car make a fare amount of power at 23psi but I have never dynoed it to get the true rwkws reading. I will be getting a new EBC and nistune very shortly and next year maybe sway-bars and cams.

Can someone tell me what the Stock RB20 valve stem size is?

You mean this tool ? Looks almost identical to the one in my first post. 300ZX and rb20 / ca18 use same valve springs and hydrolic lifters etc so I assume it would be perfect for the RB20.

I have decided to go with new cams very shortly and I wish to up grade the valve springs as well (for Peace of mind). After some research I have seen how you can put compressed air into the cylinders to allow removal of the springs with the head still on the car. I just need to know what tools everyone recommends me to use for doing this. I found this http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm Which is the correct sizing for the RB20DET? Has anyone used this before and is it as easy as the video shows? All help is appreciated.

Guys thanks for your input. At the end of the day I wish to use a set of cams that are a drop in replacement and are fairly well suited to the turbo set up i have. I will go with cams at first and later down the track when I free up a little more cash I will go with Adj cam gears as well. What do you all recommend?

I emailed these guys and they recommended the 426b set. I thought that the 268 deg was a little to aggressive for the GT-RS rear housing ,they recommended that I go valve springs and titanium retainers plus adjustable cam gears ,the costs involved to do all that it seemed not worth it. ( i guess the sales guys need to make cash) Do you think the 264's would be over aggressive for the Turbo I use?

I'm now in the market to cam upgrades for the R32's Rb20. Current mods: GT-R Injectors , Bosch 040 Fuel Pump, Z32 AFM, Front Mount 300x600x76, HKS GT-RS Turbo (18-20 psi), re-tuned ecu etc. I was intending to go with the Poncams 256 deg, 8.5 mm lift units but I am curious on the 260 deg , 8.5 mm lift lash type Procams and am wondering if they require the valve springs upgrade. Going on the tomei specs they are the same as the Poncams other than the extra 4 deg duration? What is it that effects the valve springs the most duration or lift or is it a combination of both? Cams are a new thing for me so I need the advice from others with this one. Thanks guys.

Considering getting the 256 deg poncams for the rb20 as well but I am using a HKS GT-RS turbo which is a little bigger than the 2530. Surely the larger turbo would be better suited to the aftermarket cams?

Well after a bit of research I have decided to go and build my own shroud and use 2 x 12 inch 1000 cfm fans from Davies Craig. If it all goes pear shaped I'll just buy a new fan clutch from Davies Craig and retain stock setup. Will be a bit of a challenge to get it right but that's what its all about. Will post a few pics once done.

I am looking at replacing my stock clutch fan with a twin thermo set up and these have caught my eye. R32 Fan Shroud If I go down this path I will use the Jaycar kit # KC5381 to control the twin fan setup. found @ Jaycar Can anyone vouch for these units or are they just a waste of time and money? Cheers!!!

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/intake-collector-plenum Not cheap though.

I had a lot of issues with the cusco 2 way lsd in my R32 for quite a while. I put in a 75w90 Fully Synthetic LSD oil from penright and it settled the noises down dramatically. It can be a little obnoxious when the car is cold but a few mins of driving to hat up the diff oil it settles to almost as quite as a stock one. I'm not sure how similar the cusco diffs are to the Kaaz diffs but it could help.

I think the SR box is about 20 mm shorter than the RB20 box. Might want to do a bit more research?

I had a similar prob a little while back and it ended up being the battery was low and because I dont drive it much these days the thing wasn't getting charged long enough. After leaving the battery on charge for a few days it solved all my idle issue. Regardless its worth a go , the batteries in the r32's are quite small.

I,ve had a set of tein SS Jap spec in my R32 GTS-T around 6 months now, I couldn't be happier with the results. With the dampenin set at full soft the car sokes up the bumps quite well and is quite comfortable. Even on really rough road its not too bad. With the dampening setting set to full hard the road can really be felt and the car really becomes quite firm. Body roll disapears and the car handles extreamely well. After putting in the EDFC it allowed me to really fine tune the suspension and create a very balanced car at a push of a button. Tein SS realy transformed the car and I can't wait for Sway bars.

I used to use that oil for the cusco rs 2-way and it works quite well, but then I tryed the Sin 75w90 sythetic penrite lsd oil and my god it settled down heaps, though I wouldn't use synthetic for a run in oil. The clunks will never go away completely but the right oil will settle them down dramatically.

The R33 actuator is 5psi so work it out from there. I would think it would be 10 psi low and 12-13 high.

inthisglass: Jap spec or Aus spec? I went with the jap spec and I couldn't be happier.

Tein lowered spring would be betther than the King springs, also have a look at the SydneyKid group buy for whiteline kits.

Go the whiteline hicas lock. FUll replacement bar and has a bypass fitting. So simple to install and works a treat.

Are these jap or Aus spec?

What model GTR? R32?