RedDrifter

I will be boosting up to 20psi as soon as my new trust boost controller arrives and at this sort of pressure level I would rather have a better ignition set up. The di splitfire coils seemed best bang for buck.

About 100 000 kms on both sets. One set is in my car still (will be swapping them for Di splitfire coils this avo)and the other set was a spare set I got with my spare motor about 12 months ago. I have tested both sets and they hold out fine for 17psi.

No tyres just the rims. Not sure on how much it will cost to get them sent to brissy but I'll talk to the fright company today.

Four R33 Rims $50 each (Plus frieght) Two 16" by 61/2" 40 offset Two 16" by 7 1/2" 35 offset Two sets of RB20DET coil packs. $80 for 6 or $130 for 12 (Plus frieght)

I'm in for a drift button. :burnout:

How good is the condition of the a/c pump ?

Your am will not be able to read any more air once it gets past 5.12volts so you are very close indeed but the ecu still knows how much fuel to use at 5.024(not much resolution left though). Once it reaches 5.12volts any more air will not be metered.

From what I have heard they are the same strength but the RB25 Box has much better designed syncros.

Thats exactly how mine are too. Mate of mine just had a look at the legislation on the gov web page and he tells me there is no rule actually written regarding cut number plates. I will have a look tonight and see if this is so. I would say he's missed something. Will keep you guys posted onm how I go in the end. This is a problem that I might aswell try and fix so this revenue raising loop hole stops. GRRRRRRR

Have a look for a thread done by Clint32. He's done this conversion to his R32 and tells you how to do everything.

As many of you skyline enthusiust may have noticed is that the QLD std number plates are a tab to long to fit correctly into the front and rear(rear especially) of the car in the factory designated spots. What can be doen to fix this problem? I origionaly had the edges of the plate bent to fit but I got defected for this last year just after the new year. So to fix this problem I cut the edges of the plate about 2mm each side. I just got a fine for this on satrday night. I have had a look and noticed that the coloured edges are fine still and haven't been toched. The number plate can be read 45 degs top ,bottom,left and right at a distance of 20 metres. I dont beleive that I have done anything wrong. If the stock QLD plates don't fit what can we do? The transport department don't want to know about it and the QLD coppers love it for revfenue raising(dare I say that). How many of you out there have fallen into this problem and what can be done about it.

RB20 AFM ------> Approx 310PS@wheels Z32 AFM ------> Approx 490PS@wheels Not sure about the conversion from ps to KWS though.

Those boost cuts can be vilent!!

Good old bleeder for now. I don't mind the HKS EVC IV though.

To get it right it took us 3 week ends. Mind you There was alot of drinking in between.

Essentially Yes. Though as I found out its not as easy as just making the Theoretical changes. The injectors took myself and a good mate of mine quite some time to set up. Damn Injector lag time had us for a while. I have a z32 afm at home that I intend to put on my R32 very soon. Obviously I will need to make the chages to the ecu. Should not be two hard.(alot easier than the injectors id say.) I am by no means a guru with stock ecu's as I have a hell of alot to learn yet. Can be a bit of a :headspin: I just think people shouldn't be in such a hurry to rid of there ecu when they need to tune for mods. Nissan over engineered alot of there cars and they did the same with there ecu's. Anyway mate.

I was getting around 450kkm for about 50 litres and now I seem to be getting 430km for 50 litres.(This is around town mind you where I tend to boot it a little more) :Oops: Shhhh Dont tell anyone I do that. As for on the highway I got 550km for 50 litres witch is exactly the same as before. I think the stock ecu is holding its own quite well considering.

Well a new fuel pump would have saved me alot of dosh I can tell you. Oh well had fun taking the motor out and got a chance to fix the clutch slave and master cylinders.

I'm with Robo's on this one.

They probly are fine. I had them all cleaned and tested and were all ok. Probly has more to do with incrementing of the the stock ecu than the injectors. Well the car is running better than before and is using bugger all duty cycle(60%) at 17psi. Ratios are good and the fuel economy is no different. Cheers lads.

Mic and I (good mate of mine) just finnished tuning the stock ecu (for the larger injectors) and now the compressor surge is not a problem. We set the ratios to run at 11.6:1 (after 6psi) and advanced the timing in the mid to high range a good 3-4 degrees. Car is sounding alot better and the surge has not happened since. SydneyKid was right in the fact a good tune would fix this problem and not to mention the big power gain it has now. I am really impressed on how easy the stock ecu can be modified and how well it works.

After spending quite some time on the stock ecu chipping(for these injectors) and getting it right. (got it pretty damn good nowtoo) I tend to think they are closer to 460cc rather than 550cc.

Set the input afm to the z32 and out put its as an s14a afm. Then go from there. Ive never tryed this but it should work from what I understand from the manual. Let me know how it goes as I may need to do this soon on my R32.

The air con compressor. how good of condition is it in?

I wouln't worry about that too much man. My old motor had the last one sheared off just like yours and it lasted a good 60000 from when I noticed it. Can be from too much heat in the manifold or most like just one of those things that happen. RB30 Vl's and R31's are renowned for doing this.