RedDrifter

You still have the motor buddy.

I just had my diff pulled down and it had 4.11 ratio from what I was told.(92 R32 GTS-T) While I'm at it does anyone know where I can get a new crown wheel and pinion gear set (4.11) for an R32 GTS-T? I ask as the old crown wheel is marked and I decided to not change it (to save $$$)but it still wines a fair bit so if I can get a new gear set it would be nice.

Kool thanks will have a go soon. Will let you know how I go.

I just put in a set of D2 coilovers into my R32 and atm it makes the car under steer and that about it. I'm not overly worried as I haven't set them up correctly yet but I was wondering if anyone out there can let me know what I have to do to get it set to drift fairly well.

I have a 040 and I did what Clint32 said.

That obviously goes with the r31 RB30 afm plug too.

Well if you have a set for the R32 I'll have em.

Hey Clint32 you still have them forsale?

E-mail sent for pics.

Piggy back computers are really limited to what the ecu can do in the end, well from what I understand anyway. I would say it would be just as easy to start from the ecu chip rather than to transfere from a piggy back. As for the files thats fine I don't mind at all.

Yeah that file @ http://www.boostcruising.com/silvia/romstu...uff/romedit.zip is the same as the one I have. Thanx StraightSix. I just fixed up my post on the files so you all know what the files are. I didn't explain it too well the first time.

That zed site is http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/turboupgrad...0dett/id10.html The HCR32_256_Rev2.zip is the address file revised for the RB20DET(R32). The Bnr32.zip is the address file for the R32 GTR. R32 GTS-T ECCS RB20DETStock.zip is the stock bin file I read from my eeprom and is from a 92 R32 GTS-t type M. R32 GTR RB26DETT STOCK.zip is the stock bin file for the R32 GTR. I'll post up some info on how to use romeditor and the basic theory behing the nissan ecu's at a later date when I get the chance.

Firstly you need to get you ecu's eprom removed and a 28pin socket put into its place so you can insert/remove the eprom easily. If you aren't to confident to do this just take it to a tv repair shop and get them to do it for a small cost. Secondly you need an eprom reader/writer that will allow you to write new eproms. Theres a good one that you can buy on www.batronix.com that uses the pc usb port. Very good as you dont need a power source for it. They give you the software for it too. Thirdly you need the software that alows you to modify the eproms data so you can change the rev limits/ fuel cuts / fuel maps / timing maps etc. I use the romeditor software which is located at www.925style.com/editor_direct.html. You need to download the address file for you specific car etc. I'll get my work laptop online later today and I'll post up the bin files of the RB20DET and the RB26DETT with the adress file for the RB20DET which I had to modify to allow for the adjustment of second rev limiter and a few othe minor things. I'm guessing you have an R32 GTS-t ? I'll post up URL of a site that is dedicated to the 300ZX Z32 and it has a very in depth explaiation of the ecu. The same basic principals apply to the R32 GTR/GTS-T. I just don't know the url off the top of my head but is bookmarked on the work laptop.

Well if anyone is interested I did end up finding what the second address is for the rev limiter. Ok address one is 7fb4(and this value is 9C in hex which ends up being 7800rpm) and the second is 7f8b (and his value is 97 in hex which ends up being 7550rpm) I tested both these values and these seem correct. Oh would anybody be interested in me posting up some stock binary files for a couple of cars. I have a R32gtr and an R32 gts-t stock bin file plus a few others.

Possibly. I suppose the best way to tell would be to stick a wide band af meter on the car and see what its doing when cold. Might just do that sometime.

I think that funny kick is when the computer goes into closed loop and puts in more fuel. From what I remember the car runs too lean when its cold. When you have a look at the fuel map on the eprom in the computer some of the lower load/rpm points are set a 15:1 theorrticle afr. Must have been set up to help for emissions in Japan. Well that my best guess yet anyway.

Mine does the cold thing too. Not many R32's don't do it from what I have seen.

Just trying to find out if there are more than one rev limit addresses in the RB20DET (ECCS). The reason I ask is that I decided to put my rev limiter up to 8200 and it hasn't change at all. Ive always been under the impression that it was set at 7800 and was found at 7FB4(address line) in the eprom. Any ideas guys?

How good is the steering wheel and the does it have the stock gear stick knob.

Yeah mine still goes hard just gets alot of blow by and I do mean alot. R33 turbo running 13psi and a busted fuel pump don't mix. Whoops.

Well I ordered my cusco 2way diff centre from them and it arrived about 1 week after I paid for it. I intend to use them again. Very professonal. I wouldn't be worried at all.

Hi just wondering what you guys think. I am going to do a rebuilt in the not too distant future on my RB20DET. I wish to have the tomei 2.2ltr pistons and have the tomei 260 Duration, 8.5 mm lift cams (both inlet and exaust). Possibley a set of tomie valve springs. The only thing I need to know is what turbo would be good for this set up. I was thinking GT2835 but I don't really know what to expect from this turbo. A set of 550cc injectors would probs be the injectors used too. In the end I want a reliable 250 odd rwkws. Any advise would be great thanx guys.

Put a stage 1 or 2 cam in it aswell and id say lag would be a lot less compared to a stock motor especially with your head being ported and all. As for a GT2835proS the flange is fine I think(t3) but as for the exaust outlet I'm not sure.

Good thing I am going to do most off the stuff myself. I intend going with tomei 2.2 pistons, tomei 260duration 8.5mm lift cams and tomei valve springs for reliablity up in the revs. Oh yeah 550cc injectors and GT2835. I have every intention taking a good 12 months to complete this project. That way I won't notice the cost so much. As for the bearings etc and gaskets will go genuine nissan.

When I do my rebuild I would like to get a GT2835. Heard they are a really good turbo. So yeah 2835 would be good I guess.