RedDrifter

30 odd cars is a good effort I would have to say. Ive only sorted 2(my car and my brother car) I have seen somewhere on the net that there are a few 9 second zed's running stock ecu's so the 900 hp GTR running a stock ecu sounds very doable. I have found out something that I still am unsue of but anyway I found that changing the VQ map when changing the afm from an r32 to a z32 caused some reall probs as describe on a few sites out there. When I set the K constant up correctly the car ran almost perfect afr's up top but down low the afr were way way learn. I ponded on this for weeks (about 12 months ago) and in the end I used the stock r32 VQ map and the ratio's are almost spot on across the board?????. Now the thing I haven't tryed yet is to set it up again with the z32 VQ map and it will run lean at idle so I was thinking of uping the void constant to sort this? Unfortunately untill xmass I wont have an afr meter to use. (talked my Bro and Parents into an afr meter for xmass hehe). Anyway if anyone is would like to know if you increase the void by one increament it tends to up the afr at idle by about 0.1 afr so then for every 10 you will increase/derease the idle mixtre will increase/decrease by 1 afr. The K constant (as they like to call it increase/decrease the whole maps afr's across the board including idle mixture by the same increaments. If anyone sees any probs/floors/queries with what I am saying please post as I really never had much of a chance to talk to others who have done this and those who have had alot of experience etc.

Thanx for starting the thread TSL. The stock ecu is a wonderfull thing in the R32 GTS-T and GTR. I have been messing with mine for well over two years now, learned alot and made a few f ups but hey thats best part of it. Oh and yes if you get it wrong you can kill you motor. I put in a overadvanced ignition map in on my old sick motors ecu and it finnished it off good. But live and learn. When I fisrt started I new bugger all about it to be honest. The stock ecu maps as shown in the ztech web site allow the tunner to tune to base afr's and I can tell you this make tunning the ecu a whole lot easier. If done correctly you can get the ecu to run bigger injectors ad a z32 afm and retain all the standrd functions and in most cases hold near stock fuel economy. Out of curiosity how many people here done this now ? And did you find any floors or myths about tunning the ecu?

OK. I will start thread tonight and we can all go from there? I would love to talk to a few of you guys and see if I can fill in a few gaps that I am unsure on yet and of course visa-versa. Cubes I did read that thread you had on the PFC for the Rb20, very interesting and its a worry that the minor changes they made are worth so much more than a normal unit. The RB30 would work very well with the stock ecu I would think so yeah have a fiddle.

Yeah I'm the same mate.Not that the PFC is a bad ro anything but to me PFC route for the R32 is going to the dark side. The stock ecu is a very good peice of gear if you know how to use it.

Nah. If the 27fm256 chips were still being made I would have used them instead. My mates old R31 had the switch setup though and yeah he used it for the eact same thing you do. I didn't realise how many people tune the stock ecu's these days. Its good to see. Maybe we should all start a new thread for just eccs chip tuning?

Nice little emulator there. I am guessing it doesn't have the real time trace though? I had a good look around that site and I saw the sst 27SF512 chips. I 've been using those for ages. Great to not have to use the UV earasor anymore.

I tested this on more than one vehicle so no iffy circuits there.

Well Yeah I thought that once too but if you have a good read throught he nissan manual for the R32 you'll find that it does document this. If the stock ecu detects knock it will switch to the secondary map for fuel and ignition. I tested this theory quite some time ago and everything lines up. It will spit out a knock code if the ecu detects knock beyond the ecu preset. The stock ecu is a wonderfull thing.

Well the turbo is on and i coldn't be happier. As for results I really haven't had alot of time to do much since I ftted the turbo and at the moment I am trying to sort out rego changeover from QLD to NSW and the car goes in shortley to sort out a pod filter box/partition and a blueslip etc. The boost starts round 2 k and full boost is around 4k but the tune is a little lean between 2.5k and 3.5k so the turbo isn't comeing on as quickly as it can(old tune for old ITS turbo). Top end is not bad I can say. Once that is all sorted I'll organise a dyno run for a couple of 15psi and 20psi runs. Have no idea on what the results will be like to be honest. In my opinion the HKS GT-RS a perfect upgrade for the RB20. For 2.6k delivered you cantgo wrong. So yeah sorry I can't help ya's out much yet.

I think you will reach 200rwkws (all depends on the boost you run I guess) with all the mods you have said. You will need to sort out your ecu as you menioned and once thats done I dont see why you cant get what you want even with the 2.75 " exuast. Anymore than about 200-210rwkws you will need to add a z32 as the stock afm will be running out of resolution.

The blitz coolers have the 90 deg end tank. I think thay have a model for the R31 aswell and they are alot cheaper than $3500 thats for sure. Hope this helps.

The stock ecu will spit out a knock code (code 13 I think) if the knock becomes higher than the factory preset (which is conservative). Of couse you need a consult cable and software to do it though. But you haveing an ems means its not much help here. :-(

Talk about boaring the housings within a mm of its life. Nice work. Cant wait to see how the turbo performs. Good luck mate.

Damn inflation. Grrrrrr Boat anchors are getting so bloody exy now days.

I really doubt its the impeadance mismatch causing the motor to run rich. It will be because the injectors in the redtop are different flow (cc) to the injetcors in the silvetop which the eccs ecu is designed/tuned for.

The xforce mild steel zorst is fine. I've had mine for well over 3 years now and its doing fine still. For $850 you cant go wrong.

Yeah well I'm in the same boat too but I ordered the HKS GTRS. It should be here sometime this week from nengun. Could be a few weeks yet till I can install it but it should be a well worth the wait.

Go to www.rb20det.com amd get the ecu pin out and go from there.

I doubt the injector positioning would make the noise difference. I think it would be a number of things like the different compression, different cams specs, valves and bigger ports etc. As for the rb24 having more toque it is possible i guess as it would have a slightly bigger stroke than the rb25 but i would think it was due to a better tune . If the intention was to build a new motor anyway then the rb24 would be the way to go. I think if i was gonna go a rebuild I think the rb22 would be the way I go. Personal pref i guess.

Don't listen to them Troy they are all evil. Evil I tellya!!!!