cameron

Who needs injector to spray just leave them set open :wassup: I wouldn't risk using standard injector's over 200rwkw's for safety reason's. I'd get a set of Nismo 740's if you looking at upgrading the turbo later, or 550cc should fine for 300rwkw's. Fuel pump should be first on the list it'll max before injector's. Jun

You can fit a GT3040 low mount but not on standard manifold, - (HPI 34T) why don't you upgrade it as you will have a better flow on the exhaust side of things

I don't like the music though Looking foward to more footage !

Wastagates do flutter! - i'm not sure if this is what you would call it ? Well external ones do

Greddy ? Do they have anything printed on them ?

As long as you understand whats involved in tuning these things... I don't know of anywere in aus thats selling them cheep ? Try Japan www.greenline.jp

Here, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ock+ring+wrench Jun

It takes longer than 5min's! This is not the For Sale section, why didn't you just take it to PM in the first place! Shmiddy, As trust said the fuel system will allow you to run more boost etc etc... But you will notice that you'r car will rev smoother at higher RPM. And yes a heavy duty clutch/pressure plate will bite harder depending on what you get the puk clutches are usally ON or OFF for both sprug and solid center. Jun

You mentioned stock fuel system, what other modification's have been done to the car ? Power gain's none. This depends on the boost pressure that you are running aswel to determine rich or lean. Low boost you won't need regulator as the stock system can handle it fine. Anything over 12psi you need to start upgrading parts. Eg: You really need to upgrade you'r fuel pump first before a regulator as the new pump alone will up the pressure. Then the regulator can be installed You can expect it to run rich, meaning you'r fuel guage will go down twice as quick Jun

Sounds good, Got any photo's ?

Sounds like the float is not plugged in.... ? Or it has a hole in it and its filling up with fuel and then emptying out going up and down etc. You could try pulling it out and have a look!

Yes their fine, Turbosmart, Blitz, GFB, HKS are all good BOV's. I prefer HKS SSQV

If you go for a ride in a skyline with all the usual modification's - R33 GTS-T Stock turbo, Dumpipe, exhaust, cooler, 12 psi etc etc... and one has lower comp with 1.2mm HeadGasket other has stock, i've noticed that the one with the lower compression takes about 300rpm longer before the turbo starts spooling and comes on full boost. Eg: Stock comp ratio might start at 2200rpm and on full boost by 35000rpm Lower comp engine starts spooling at 2500rpm hits full at 3800rpm Its nothing too noticable but drivability is fine I hope that give's you some sort of idea ! Jun

:uhh: I don't really understand what you'r talking about but i'll try answer it.... You don't really need an aftermarket manifold inless you'r running big boost eg: 18psi or more as for power gain's, test have been done and you get 0hp gain intil you'r running higher boost pressure. Have you got any pics of it ?

2 problem's, Fuel - Run BP ultimate not vortex crap... & Tuning - The best results that i've seen for car's with similar mods are running PFC's and inless you have a tuner that specialises in Haltec then you'r not going to get the full potential out of it. Jun

Very Nice and Shiny INASNT, Autosol is good sh!t

Their is a way to make the fuel mixtures more leaner. The vacume hose going from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, add negative pressure on it. eg: put a brass restricter inside it like one thats in the stock boost hose, To make it richer take the hose off & bloke manifold side up. This should only be done with a stock ecu not aftermarket - PFC etc. Jun

HKS GT-RS turbo, 2530, 2535 & 2540 are good for around 250rwkw's. The GT-RS is claimed to of have the power of the 2540 and the response of the 2530. The next step up from them, still staying interal gate is HKS 2835ProS. Jun

For start's you don't need 300rwkw's to drift, 250rwkw's will be fine, with you car on a weight loss program... External gate for drift ? - that limmit's you have a smaller & responsive turbo. For more power on the track with Internal Gate I would go the HKS 2835ProS which is enough for 250 - 300rwkw's. Other wise go for the 2835 external version if you have to have an external gated turbo. Stay away from 3037's & 3040. I personally would go for the 2530 or 2540 turbo. Jun

Hey Gary, I think I seen you the other day turning at the lights heading into town from stockland ? White Stagea ? Looks awsome and very clean

So you'r saying it won't make boost ? What Amaru said.

It won't hurt to change the head gasket for realiability, their around $500 or so depending on what you get. Tomei HKS Grex Jun

You'r only after 200rwkw's so stay away from the GT30/40 As you mentioned in one of you'r post's that why upgrade to a biger but smaller turbo when you after more power later down the track, well if you'r going to be running a 3040 on a 140, 000k old engine then you going to atleast need new piston's for realibility. You mentioned Injector's, Why do everything else and not injector's - You'r not going to get far with standard one's if you looking at more power later, they would be one of the first things i'd do before you'r turbo. Here's how it work's. HKS 2530 = you will most likely run around 14psi ? HKS 3040 = most used boost pressure with these is between 17 - 22psi. Don't forget 14psi on this turbo = around the same air flow as 17 or so psi on a 2530, Maby more ? Standard Injector's - max flow of 270cc ? You can squeeze 200rwkw's out of them with big fuel pressure but thats pointless, get some bigger one's. You have the air supply not the fuel, = lean out = bang = expensive engine rebuild bill Hope that helps,

I spose you could say so, it runs high boost fine (25psi) so its deffienlty been lowered also its harder to tell what the exact compression is because of the 1.8mm tomei head gasket. - lower compression again. Another thing that come's into play is the head was warped a bit so they shaved a couple of mm off. These piston's are arias, same top as the standard cast piston's so their not slugs and they idle fine the the morning after cold start. When the engine finished being put together the reconditioner said it had shit loads of compression ? - So i'm a bit :confused: It's got really good drivability, response wise, for such a large turbo - 780hp Garrett on it, So the compression can't be that low other wise it would be turbo lag central. It is deffiently lower than standard. If you looking for a forged piston i'd recommend arias. - Tryed and proven Jun

doridori32: :uhh: ??? Bizz, You could try putting a standard RB25 turbo on as these can get upto 200rwkw's, other wise stay away from the 30/40 if you'r only after 200kw's as its too big and too laggy, I'd surgest standard RB25 turbo or HKS 2530. make sure you have all the other components to able you to get that figure: Fuel pump, inj's, aftermarket ecu, afm's, exhaust, metal head gasket etc. Anti-lag = NOS - You wont need nos if you'r running a GT2530 It's all possible with out dammaging you'r engine but you'll need to have a propper look at the internal's other wise as soon as you crank some boost through it the piston's will be rat sh!t being, 140,000k's old. - This also depends on how the car was driven previously. Jun