cameron

Do it once do it properly! Forged internal's are a must - Its a reliability thing, plus it might hold its value a bit better if you goto sell it later on, as forgies are much stronger than standard cast piston's. If money's not a problem then go for it and do the turbo's/dump's aswel Jun

Dude, Ovbiously no one wants to buy fuel pump's from you as what you displayed in other thread's and PM's you have sent about these for sale. Even If you can get them cheap and so on, you shouln't take over other people's for sale threads - eg drftking. I would have to agree with sxygtst on this one --- Mods if this is inappropriate please delete my post---

And Genuine Nissan bearing's are good. We used RB26 forged piston's in a RB25 - 0.40 thou over bore size, they work fine.

Yes thats correct, you can't run stock ecu Due to inj correct times that need to be changed. On the FC it ables the car to start and idle!

Q1. Depends on the grade of stainless and how hot it get's etc. - And also if you get a propper one made not a china copy. They usally cost around $1200 But No they don't crack easily! I've only seen one crack due to it being tampered with by another welder! Q2. Yes, A stainless tuned length manifold will give you horsepowe gain's over stock as it flow's sh!t loads better. You might notice a slight noise increase aswel. Jun

Yeh i searched nothing on Power fc's, tuning or gain wood's :confused: And i've never herd any bad reports from that tuning shop. Jun

Also what engine would you prefer for motorsport's - Drag, Drift etc... & Why!

I like SR20's because they are very snappy & the pull hard & they are very quick for a 4cylinder, the only disadvantage is because its an alloy block they fa#king expensive to replace if you blow your motor up. Thats why most people put RB20's into their silvia because its cheaper and a good power gain because of power to weight factors. Another disadvantage with the SR20 is because again its an alloy block it can't be used in certain 1/4 Drag Racing classes - Look at (mark ashford -spelling?) 200sx, he had to go FJ20 because the SR is alloy block and is not aloud to be used. RB20's are good because of their nice smooth reving & the ability to sustain high rpm in standard form. --Thats all for now keep the thoughts coming-- arguements aloud. Jun

Hi Guys, I've seen a few thoughs been clashed around the forums about these 2 engines performance wise, making big horsepower, the disadvantages of these 2 & How these 2 comapre in standard tune. Which engine do you prefer, and why?, Keeping in mind the SR20 has an alloy block. Jun

Microtech -Theirs the problem right their! Microtech are good but its either Big HP no good drivability or No HP with drivability. Ever car i've seen fitted with a microtech has gone backwards, run's like sh!t, has missfire's & hesitation's. - CA18's & RB20, RB25's - still to this date I havn't seen one car that actually goes half decent with this ecu. And the wiring in it..... well thats a whole new story :uhh: sorry bit off topic! Jun

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=62408 Thats the Blitz SBC not sure if thats what you'r refering too ? It is on a GTS-T tho i'm sure it would be the same on a GTR. As for HKS, i havn't herd any complaints about them and being HKS i bet they have studied hard to make it have as acurate boost control as possible That unit looks pretty flash & looks fairly straight foward to use so i don't see why it wouldn't work. Jun

Thats normal, oil their to lubricate the shaft/wheels in the turbo and you usally get a thin spread on the intake funnel aswel. If it were blowby then you would proberly have burning oil smell coming from you'r exhaust and with a blow turbo seel same thing. - White Smoke. Jun

Belt meaning timing belt ? The car wouldn't run very healthy if the timing belt jumped a couple of teath, and it might be smashing or hitting valve's - but you never know! The easiest thing to do would be chuck a timing light on it and see what the timing is doing or just look at the CAS it self to see were its positioned. Jun

Depends on if you drive it much after blowing it up... I've seen valve's been dammaged a little like its got detination on it ! And bits of piston plasted on them - nuthing too much that can be cleaned up. Score marks on the bore, depending on how bad it is usally get over sized piston so it doesn't need to be re-sleeved to standard size. Jun

:uhh: Are you talking about the HKS SSQV No their don't kill engines how could it ? :confused:

That little thing on the front of the engine is called the Crank angel sensor or Cam angel sensor aka CAS. If the timing has been retarded then you will get a loss of power, viseverser, advance it and you get more power but you also get detination ! = Not good The screw should be set in the middle ruffly, Or you can get a timing light and set it at 15º BTDC. Retarded = Turning Clockwise Advance = Turning Anti-Clockwise Jun

The 2 wires on the boost solenoid should have a plug on the end which plugs into the harness with the rest of the sh!t GTR boost kit ? Theirs only one solenoid for the apexi PFC/Avc-r so it shouldn't make a difference :uhh: Jun

Steel front wheel, most likley ceramic exhaust wheel. - stock turbo ? I carn't remember if the comp has ceramic wheel or not ? I don't think it makes a difference anyway, inless its a R34 turbo which is nylon compressor wheel aka plastic. If its got an exhaust wheel made of ceramic then you can't be boosting over (12psi max) for too long. otherwise it'll end up in you'r cat. If its a high flow turbo with a steel exhaust wheel then you can run upto 17psi max. But i wouldn't recomend doing that inless you have the usual modifications done, including fuel pump and aftermarket computer. - stock ecu has fuel cut anyway at 14psi. Jun

Deffiently piston has goooone... Oh well, Time for a set of forgies to be put in Number 6 piston is the most common one to go on RB25's. It'll look somthing like this, Depends if you were on boost when it blew the rings. Jun

Nice photo's and their good quality. Black & white one's always come out best when you'r not looking at the camera, like the first & the last photo. IMO I reckon the one above the second last photo would have looked good in colour. other than that the photographer seem'd to have done a great job - As long as you'r happy with the photo's. Jun

Not really, I've seen plently of cars driven with the afm un-pluged, not boosting but just moving the car, with out realising. I don't know about the R32 but i have seen r33's do it As for them plugging it back in, well yeh they can then you'l know they have thrashed it or brung it on boost. As SK & Ben said if you can't trust you'r mechanic get another one. Jun

GTST, Good point, If you had a manifold leak it will sound like a tractor, not lawn mower tractor's are better :wassup: Curious to know why R33 GTST's always loose manifold bolts usual on cylinder's 1 & 6 ? Jun

With Stock ECU: You can try un-plugging the AFM or the earth strap on it. To get the car to start so they can drive around or move it, but they can't rev it over 2,000rpm as the ecu has gone into home limp mode Then once you'r finished connect it back up and all is sweet ! With Power FC: What SK said, Jun

Tyre screeching sound :uhh: depends what you mean if its metal scraping metal thats not good! But if not its proberly just the way the turbo spools. Boost drop off can be a number of things. Stock RB20 with usual pod and boost. You need the other bits & pieces to go with it, exhaust, dumpipe, FMIC. - If you havn't already got them. The turbo carn't be running out of efficency already because its only stock boost, so sounds like a restriction problem at high RPM. Jun

Thats the first i've herd of it :uhh: