cameron

Yes you can use the standard injectors, as long as you dont boost it too much. Changing the bottom end doesnt require you to change them inless you have got a bigger turbocharger etc: I havent tryed your idea so i dont know if it will work. Give stick a ring (number in my signature) - tell him your from sau and ask him for a price on some forged pistons.

No, I didnt say that came as RB20. They come as RB26. But i meant to add that if you are after big power and going to use forged pistons, rods you'll have to upgrade your crank shaft to RB25 or RB26. No company i've seen makes forged rods specified for RB20 or RB25 they are all RB26 items. Jun

Have a look at the oil cap. If its star like shape its an R32 Engine if not its a R33. Thats the only way i've been able to identify the R32 from R33 - easiest way. :wavey: Jun

What sort of power gain's you after ? Anything over 300rwkw's I'd buy a bare block RB25 and build that up with standard RB25 crank, RB26 Rods and Forged pistons. IF you just want to get you'r car working, Use your standard RB20 crank, RB20rods and some forged pistons Avalible piston types: Arias, Wiseco, Venoli, HKS, Jun, Trust Avalible connection rods: Eagle, Crower, HKS, Jun, Trust If your after power you will need all the surporting upgrading system's eg: Apexi Power FC ECU - Others are avalible (Wolf 3D, Motech, Mictotech, Autronic) AirFlow meter Z32 Fuel pump Boost controler Intercooler Exhaust 3" Dump/front pipe You get the idea. If your after parts for your build look at my signature below. Jun

I can vouch for the HKS bov valve aswel, it has a idle stablizing mecheanizm desingend to have smooth idle. It sounds quit high pitch, personaly i like it but its personal preference. You can pick one up for about $400, Their might be some second hand one's in the for sale section take a look. Jun

Got any pictures of the engine bay ? I'm sure the guys with the Nissan Fast software can help you out. :wavey:

Common guys no one interested in a excellent condition road bike ? It has hardly been used!

Sounds like a rattling/jingling of car key's. Hard to explain!:headspin: Let me know how it goes If your not back in 10 mins i know your walking home :wassup: :jk: Jun

:confused: It should have a couple of different srpings that you can put in it. Eg: 7 psi spring, 10psi spring and 15psi spring. By the looks of that you can choose what rating you wish. What boost pressure are you going to run ? - 1.1 - 1.4 bar spring would be good for your application or turbo size. that ranges from 16 - 20 psi. A member on these forums, username: Steve, he is running the same turbo setup and a HKS wastegate if you want more information on them ask him. Jun

Yep mark your original timing spot. Keep the boost reasonable eg: under 12psi Take it for a strap and if it doesnt change then take it too mechanic. Dont want to risk taking your self to see the bank and getting money for a rebuild Jun

I'm not a 100% sure but you turn it anti-clock wise to advance on the cas, but clock wise on a adjustable cam gear (which you dont have) Some one Correct Me please. Use a protractor if you dont have anything and turn it a couple of Deg say 2 and take it for a spin. If your turn it too far you will loose power and your car will go no were so find the sweet spot. ********************************************************* Remember it can kill your engine so be carful playing with your cas Jun

Yep,Its called a Crank Angle Sensor aka CAS by changing this it can vary the way your cam shaft lifts your valve's etc: hence the name timing, meaning the time in which the cam shafts spin open & close valves. By advancing you'r timing you can get considerable power gains to a certain extent intil you start to loose power. Detination is not always herd by the human ear so be careful as i said. Jun Beat ya to it DRFTR33

Just be careful advancing the timing as you can kill your engine.Make sure you put it on a dyno after you get your timing advanced or while its being done, to make sure its running 100% normal and not leaning out and melting ringlands. It might be worth wile saving up $1100 in and getting a power fc and getting it tuned safely, it beats the hell out of a melted piston :uhh: - expensive rebuild. Jun

Yes if theirs lots of black smoke/soot your car is running rich. Your carnt contol the mixture via the standard ecu, but you can buy a SAFC II to adjust the fuel or go the full apexi power FC ecu. The popping is just backfire from running rich and the unburnt fumes are igniting. - Nuthing to major, but this can cause fowling of the plugs. Have you checked your fuel filter ? Might be cloged and causing the boost problem (no response) Have you checked for a bigger fuel pump becuase if you have then thats a good thing, but not for your fuel its chewing lots and lots of fuel. - Expensive, You could put it on a dyno and check the A/f ratio's to see how rich its running then that can give you an idea on what you can do next. Jun

What you talking about cars are like women ! They perform when you test drive them but once you own them its all over SK, Is it hard to fit Tomei Poncams yourself ? Also what would you recomend them being rev'd too before power loss occurs, In mind that everything else can handel it. - bottom end etc.

Tomei poncams are the biggest cam that will work with standard valve's, cam gears and VVT. They are certinely better then standard cams because their bigger. Theirs a couple of guys on here with tomei poncams in their skyline they should give you a run down on what their like. Jun

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=gtr+cams+rb20

The standard oxygen sensor is pointless really for a a/f ration guage, their slow and narrow which means that dont register very fast and will not under heavy acceleration and under boost. By time it registers under full boost your car could be leaning out and the guage still hasent registered it being lean. You need to buy a wideband (fast & wide) o2 sensor but they are fairly expensive. I'm sure sydneykid can further explain what im saying. Jun

Bump!

SK, Link doesnt work :uhh:

http://www.rs-competition.ru/apexi/ Jun

$2000 came with flange that had to be welded onto dumpipe - 4 bolt pattern & gaskets Discopotato03 our turbo exhaust housing has a flanged up funnel to the part were the dumpie bolts on, Is this a geniune GT housing ?

Theirs more then one camel spider in that pic, theirs 2 stuck together because theirs more then 8 legs there. Still the chase you because they like the shadow's and not the sunlight :uhh:

Yep, Heat shield is still being made up for the turbo and will be going on before running high boost level's. Same for the Power steering fluid, heat wrap or shield. Jun

Sounds like its time to invest in some Frogs You'r Frogline will be spider free. I use to breed Green Frogs and they live everwere here and eat spiders and all the bugs. But if you dont like frogs then i guess thats not an option I dont really like spiders either! but i have a big hairy one in a cast of glass. Its 11cm long including legs. the body is 4 1/2 cm's the fangs are 1cm long and its 7cm wide including legs and the body is 2cm wide. I have no idea what type it is. :uhh: