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cameron

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Everything posted by cameron

  1. Correct It controls your boost pressure, when the wastegate is closed boost will rise and then once set pressure is reached the wastegate will open to stop boost increasing.
  2. Hey guys did the re-grounding work ?
  3. If you want a series 2 buy a 1996 model + other wise any year under will be a series 1 or 1.5 The differences between 1 & 2 are the way the coil packs run, the seats are different in the 1995 to compare to the 1996 mdl and a couple other features.
  4. PSI = "Pounds Per Square Inch" Is a unit of measure which is what the boost pressure is measured in, Stock boost is 5 - 7psi hope that helps
  5. I'd be expecting around 110mph + terminal speed, with 216rwkw's
  6. 150 - 170 rwkw's just a gestimate? If you have 3" dumpipes aswel you should expect around their.
  7. Only to check your A/F ratios to get them running around 12.5 under full boost, The only real way you can change this is to change the ammount of boost your running. eg: You carnt alter the fuel maps, so the fuel is set as standard so you have to get the right boost pressure to make sure you arent leaning it out, this could mean you have to runs less boost to get the a/f ratios right, untill you can afford a bigger fuel pump.
  8. Fair enough, The other option is to buy a after market ecu eg: power fc etc. It is possible to tune the standard ecu but i have only seen them do it in japan. But you are still limited to what you can change on it, compaing to a power fc.
  9. Not really no, But you can reset the ecu after installing the front mount and it will self learn everything over again. Do this buy disconecting the battery and pumping the brake pedel a couple of times and reconnecting again. After starting car let it idle for a couple min's then turn the a/c on and let it idle for another few min, then take it for a drive. hope that helps
  10. If theirs no oil in the cooler then thats fine. I was more thinking when you said fingre is black with wet oil that their was a lot more of it. Steve, I would'nt think a fairly standard skyline would need a oil catch can. You would only need one once you start putting big turbos and going for max power, As your car would be running a lot hotter and oil will be thinner and then going into catch can. I'd still be cautious and if it gets worse get it checked out!
  11. I was just showing what i've seen in relation to modded lancers, I wansent telling you to do the same I'd go with your idea!!! FWD you brake to many drive shafts & no traction... Rwd is more fun, I'd Go SR20DET and it will be a serious weapon. I'm curious to see the end result
  12. I've seen a lancer using the stock engine, its got a garrett turbo (not to sure what size), autronic ecu and the rest of the gear runnig 20psi and it did a 13.4 on the crapest track in nrth qld. no too bad for front wheel drive...
  13. This could mean: 1) Turbo oil seal has blown. 2) Piston rings have gone. Get a mechanic to check it out, and after you check your turbo and if its alright get a Compression test on your cylinders. Its only around $110 for a new oil seal in your turbo, so no need to replace the whole unit. If you change to a bigger turbo you will have to have the surporting systems to go with it. eg: afm, fuel pump, injectors - to be safe and ecu to get it tuned correctly. If its your pistons rings that are shot through, Its time for a rebuild and some forgies . hope that helps...
  14. I think it should be similar to a electronic solinoid ? the hose the goes from the intercooler pipe to boost controller should have a T piece in the middle and that part goes to the bottom port on the wastegate. The hose on the other side of the boost controller goes to top of wastegate. someone correct me if im wrong ?
  15. Do you have an electronic boost controller, If so what type ?
  16. Out of curiousity what boost are you running ?
  17. or more like ringlands. If its running lean! What to do: 1) smoke smell like oil - and if its gets worse and worse, Piston number 6 is dead 2) Look down at the exhaust manifold too see if theirs any oil leaking out were the manifold joins onto the head. 3) leak down compression test
  18. Does anyone know how to covert it to english ? Also the maps are really bunched up and I carnt see the number properly does anyone know how to change it ?
  19. Thanks Chris your a champ
  20. Your proberly right, at thoes power levels the stock manifold shouldnt be too bad. From expierence I'd say that you can notice the response is better off boost with the aftermarket tuned length manifold, This is with a GT3040 turbo tho it may be alot different with say a HKS 2530. I'd just though that the standard ex manifold would choke at around 17psi because its flowing so much air the little manifold will have trouble letting the exhaust gasses excape ? An adjustable cam gear can help with spooling of the turbo. If your looking at response and quick spooling I'd go with tuned length ex manifold and a HKS 2530, 2540 depends on if you want to spend the money while your changing the turbo.
  21. Off boost response is better. Alows your exhaust gasses to escape quicker because the manifold is bigger, and at high boost the standard manifold would be restrictive i would think. Comparing it to somthing like a HKS tuned length manifold.
  22. White smoke can also means burnt oil, which could be ringlands as you mentioned. If it blows white smoke when he backs off the throttle after heavy load (on boost) then I'd start worring but if it only does it in the moring sounds more like moisture. Does the smoke have a smell of any kind ?
  23. GT-SS 2530/2540 Responsive and the T3 flange can bolt onto the standard manifold, I'd change the exhaust manifold as this also helps with response.
  24. Chill Out guys, Brent carn't do anything untill he recieves the automotive part from his supplier in Japan, but as soon as he recieves the parcel he send's them straight away. I've purchased a Tomei head gasket from brent and its arrived in 3 days after shipping.
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