cameron

Used rb25 crank with rb26 rods and rb25 piston in rb25 block

Proberly got the timing light pick-up in the wrong spot! Coil number 1 is were it should be taken from.

Wow, Theirs nothing wrong with you'r computer, i'm almost 100% sure that the computer is not getting 12vlts, which will not run the FC, as i have seen in previous experience the Standard ecu only needs 8vlts to run the car You will have to run a new wire from you'r fuse box, which is on ignition switch other wise if you go direct from battery it will be on all the time.

Take it back to your tuner and tell him you want to drift the car which means engine will run hotter than you'r everyday driving, so more likely to encourage pre-ignition to occur.

Dont be flogging it!!!

Take it to a tuner. Their very large injectors for an RB25... Hope you have big turbo to match them! This is were you should start: If you havn't already done this, on the Hand Controller SETTINGS > INJECTOR CORRECTION Their should be the stock settings in their: 100% - 0.00ms 100% - 0.00ms 100% - 0.00ms 100% - 0.00ms 100% - 0.00ms 100% - 0.00ms You need to enter these values. 46% - +0.08ms 46% - +0.08ms 46% - +0.08ms 46% - +0.08ms 46% - +0.08ms 46% - +0.08ms See how you go!

The IT are also low, meaning the sensor wasnt in place, which will give you less power. The hotter the IT the more power it will read due to corrections in the software. Beside's that it looks very nice and still heading up not tappering off yet !

This still for sale?

Yeah as far as i know datalogit doesn't have a settings that allow's you to change the sensitivity of the knock sensor's. You can change the rate the the light on the dash flash and at what level - default is 60.

No its still not good for you'r engine but at least you know you havn't blown it up if its only 1 or 2 points. It should be taken back to you'r tuner to get fixed. At 139 knock as posted above -3 deg should do the trick. Also further back in the post you guys were talking about knock level's and being able to hear it in the cabin. This aint always true, I've seen 70 knock on FC h/c and it was really loud inside the car engine was rb26 - this knocking was due to bad fuel car was sitting for couple mnth's. But on a rb25 i've herd 80 knock (again FC H/C) through my chassis ear and no one else could hear it in the car or out side - car was on dyno. although this was at 2 points at high rpm... So it can vary - who's know's why but its all bad new's ! For a stock engine i like to keep level's around 20, for somthing stronger, forged etc.. 30 - 40 is ok. Their are many different reason that pre-ignition can occur: * To hot of a heat range on you'r spark plugs * Hot intake temps into engine * To much ign advance * Lean mixture's

Faulty knock sensor's in GTR's is common apparently, croydon racing can confirm this. 139knock ouch! although you'll proberly find majority of the time its on in 1 or 2 specific load points, if it was getting that level through all the rev range thats bad bad new...

Guys chill out, Brent has to take holidays some time, you pay for good quality parts at good prices, you waite for them if you don't like it go some were else.

Dont forget to turn off O/2 FeedBack when tuning the afr's. Guys its good to see that use are all having a go with the FC and they are fairly user friendly but be careful when changing things that you don't know about. Happy Tuning...

What R31Nismoid just said, you can't hear audible detonation and thats what kill's engines. Do what paul said try taking a few deg out on the overall correction to see if it makes a difference. Also the load on a dyno can be a little differnt on the street, i've seen up to 3 load point change from what was being read on the dyno.

You just answered you'r own question's. lag time - I use +0.06ms Make sure you have a wideband sensor before you go playing with the fuel map. The valve's on the map "for ovbious reason" are going to be very different from standard. You'll proberly find that with the 740's and z32 it'll idle better rich.

Thanks for the replies guys, The plan of attack is to get a current DB check on my car, which is booked in this week. Then take in the information to Senior Sgt of the Traffic Branch, and if they don't do something about the ticket, I will defiantly take legal action, as it sounds like that’s the only way things will happen. As this is just becoming harassment, to import owners and we need do something about it! BBQ

Do a search, theirs lots on this subject.

Whats wrong with them? at least the results were consistent across the board unlike inghams dyno! btw, What ecu are you going to be putting in you'r car, because you'r sure enough not going to get 320hp with that and stock turbo.

Hey Guys, To anyone thats interested in what happens up here, this was our first time and hopfuly its going to be bigger and better next year. http://www.svscairns.com.au/10.html The svs ford xr6 T made 504hp on 18psi, not bad for a daily driver that picks up the kids from school ! Pitty nat couldn't get traction even with 4 20ltr drums of water, 2 blokes, and straped down... Still a bit more power to squeeze out of andys silvia all good fun lukas: I didn't see you their?

Start with the basic's, Pull the plugs out and check them or replace them and re-gapp them to .76 Then if that doesn't work try lowering the boost back to stock 7 psi. What RPM does it starts to do it, also does it rev past the miss?

Injectors is were alot of people make mistake's. Top feed & bling bling rail injector set up's are just going to be more trouble then their worth. As if their not high impedence their not going to work. Nismo 740's or 550cc's are direct replacements into the standard fuel rail, no need to modify anything at all, the only thing i would recomend changing is the rubber o-rings that the injector sits on. - Cheap as under $5 And if you are going to replace your injectors to a larger size you cannot use them with the stock ecu, you will have to go aftermarket as your car will run like, sh!t and very very rich. Low impedence injectors are possible to use on a RB25 but you will need resistor pack to change the impedence to 12 - 16ohm's. - A waste of time if you ask me when the direct replacements will do the same job, hassell free! 2 eg. RB25 with Nismo direct replacement injectors, took the afternoon to fit them and get working, car was drivable no drama's except for the one o-ring that was not sealing so had to be replaced. SR20 with denso 780cc injectors with custom fuel rail, took 4 days to get it working and running, as we had dramas with collar's and the injectors not sealing in the rail and a number of other things, the car runs fine now, the price turned out to be more expensive then the RB25 direct replacements. Cam

Yep, 370/550 = .67 so 67% - This is used for cold start's so the car starts and idle's etc, so you don't get a dump of 550cc injectors into you'r engine. As for the MS this depends on what value's on the fuel map you wish to use, and how much duty cycle the injectors will run at. I'd start at 0.10ms - This wil richen it up a little. As the other's said you really need a sniffer to measure the afr's. As for the Knock: SETTINGS > IGN/INJ > and down arrow on the ignition will retart the ignition timing over the whole map, but this does not save to the power FC it will be reset after you switch the ignition off. Try pulling -5 deg and take it for a run if it still knock's then try - 10. then you will know how much ignition advance its got.... too much! hope that helps,

Injector's & AFM

check you valve springs are still alive! I want to see a dyno Graph...

Or the afm has gotten dirt on it, give a spray with brake cleaner.