cameron

Are you running a stock clutch or aftermarket? Try bleeding the clutch cylinder

Make sure you'r doing it at WOT, so you get full compression on the guage as it take's a while to go up. You have to crank it for a while, so its best to disconect injectors or coil pack's, and thoes figure's look fine Better higher than low!

RB26DETT - Low Impedence Top feed 444cc RB25DET - High Impedence Side Feed 370cc RB20DET - High Impedence Top Feed (270cc - ?) No, You miss-read one important letter

Turbo dumpipe is a must. Try a search or look at the quick ref guide (sticky thread) at the top of the forced induction page.

Hey gR33ddy by the looks of it no one is after oil cooler's so i don't think its going to happen:( Their was no harm in trying anyway

Got mine today aswel, Thanks shan

I may be wrong, I've seen heaps of R33 R34 R32 turbo's can't remember whats what... if it has a pre-load on the center housing then its ball bearing.

AFAIK the R33 RB25 turbo's are not ball bearing. I don't think the VG30 is either, but these are known to be a little laggier than the RB25 turbo and the zed turbo can handel upto 18psi.

What for? Are you telling me 10psi is too much on stock fuel system, then why are you running 14psi through you'rs?

Hey funky, whats the estimted TOA?

Nice hijack! He needs to get a set of 3" dump pipes.

What modification's are done to the car? If the car's bog stock, meaning standard exhaust, intercooler etc then i wouldn't be running 12psi! Other than that if it has usual mod's then maby the boost controller has died. Also it may have a restriction some were holding it back. If you are running a front mount cooler and you'r boost guage is in the plenum maby its dodge and got holes in it? Have you actually checked too see if the controller is set to 12psi?

Search button does wonder's Beside's the search button, a quick run down. 45v1, 45v3 45v4 or what ever is printed on it, their all either R32 or R33 turbo's different series/ year model's all do the same job. Inless its got a nylon front compressor wheel which is a R34 GTT turbo.

I would recomend doing a dump pipe, this will give you an increase in spooling and horsepower. 10psi will be fine, but don't go anything over that if you want it to last:)

IMO It may be possible but simply a waste of time. A bottle of gass does wonder's. The stock turbo spool's early enough as it is why would you want it any quicker? or put some dirt/oil on the afm hot wire, that'll make it run rich

Tuning, 95% of the time its hard to get rid of hunting on idle with bigger injector's, but its down to tuning. - generally happens on hotter day's. Again this sounds like the tuning, simply take off at higher rpm. I would start with the basic's first, cleaning the AFM's, checking plugs, looking for leak's or blockage's etc. Maby even post you'r inj map off the FC if its possible... this would help.

1 please.

Hey lukas thats Mel & Scott, SVI printed on the front mount intercooler. The weather is sh!t atm for cruising

Hey lukas, The weather doesn't look to good this weekend, and everyone has lots on aswel. We will organise a big cruise very soon, details will be posted up on the site. www.cairnsimports.d2g.com.au

Yeh true, Depends on what rings/piston's you are running some take longer then other's.

Has the engine been run in properly? I wouldn't be reving upto 6k inless you have done atleast 1,000k's.... Before then you should be reving to 3k.

I'll start with the bottom end, Forged Piston's : Arias - $1450 Forged Rods : Crower - $2100 Crank Shaft: Tomei forged counter weight - $5k + Machiening & Balancing - $3 - 5k - price will vary depending on what needs to be done. I would use thoes spacific parts if i was on a tighish budget, but if you want to go nuts go for a HKS/JUN/TRUST/TOMEI stroker - $10k for the piston's/rods/crankshaft. Then you'r bearings crank shaft main bearing, con-rod bearing Genuine Nissan bearing kit - $600 Rear Crank shaft seal - $60 New idler bearing $95 New tensioner bearing $45 New Genuine nissan water pump - $150 New Oil Pump - $500? New Gaskets for oil pump and water pump - $20 Head: Port & Polish - I'm not sure on price? Tomei Metal HeadGasket - $450 Tomei Camshafts - $1000 Valve springs - Depending on what lift cam shafts you want to use the price can vary from $500 through to $1400 Upgrade Valve's - ? Upgrade Lifter's - $700 Valve guide's - $750 Thoes price's are off the top of my head so they could be expensive/less give and take. All that adds up to just short of $20,000, its not until you add up the price of all the little things that makes a engine rebuild expensive! Theirs proberly more that i've missed. hope that helps, Cam

Port & Polish, heavy duty valve springs. You want to keep the compression high if you'r using it for drifting.

Do a search !!!! Nengun have a very high reputation and i have never herd of any one not recieving their parts, somtimes it takes longer than planed but thats un-controlable due to manufacture's etc...

Hooked up wrong in the engine bay? sounds like its not letting any air through to the actutator which mean's the boost is going to keep climing through the roof.... Did you follow any diagrams when setting it up?