cameron

You could try dicksmith's or places like that, but you'r best bet would be to find a second hand wiring loom at the wrecker's and cut that up.

Lukas, If it was a black R32 then thats andrew, I don't think he's on sau. He was in town with us the other week - on sunday.

So these are bolt in PonCams? For what series?

fit it and have a fiddle making it harder or softer see which ever leaks, most of the time the stalling is not from the BOV.... Fuel regulator's, Over rich fuel mixture's, fuel pump hasn't got enough voltage etc

Very nice, You can really see it come to life when its on 14psi, I wouldn't worrie about the leaning out as its just going over 12. But it wouldn't hurt to get a RRFPR installed to keep that fuel up their. All you need now is a PFC and you should be able to level out that AFR line to about 11.5 - 11.8 and wind some ignition in and you should see close to 200rwkw's on 14psi

Walbro's are good enough to fill serge tanks Sounds like home limp mode, an earth is not connected usally happens if the earth on the afm has not got a decent connection.

You'r cars slow anyway so it doesn't make a difference :wassup: :Bang: Try usuing Castrol R Synthetic 10w60

The Z32 is an 80mm & the Q45 is 90mm they both pretty much do the same job. Or option 3 as Nismoid mentioned.

Yes their good, but a bit of a b!tch to drive.. ON or OFF no riding.

Up Arrow = Peak hold for highest value Left Arrow = hold current value Right Arrow = clear highest value Down Arrow = Back to normal monitoring.

Test these intlet plenum's on more R33's to see what results you can achieve, but do a before and after test for both dyno and road!

You said: We never goto check the inlet temps when it was breaking motor's Then you said: Heat is less likely to dammage the motor? Anyway its all down to tuning, You can only tune to an extent intil you'r standard internals become un-safe. You make it you break it.

As the others said, Clutch You can pick up Extreme 5 puk finger cluctch for around $700 with pressure plate.

By adding the PFC you can't usally get gains of around 25kw's, this depends on what has been done to the engine to determine what power you should be getting. Around $600 to get it tuned for most place's in brisbane but i'm not 100% sure

If a properly set up car won't get boost spikes then a properly set up car should have a decent cooling system, so you won't be getting temps of 100000* The inlet temps should not vary much from running 18psi and getting spikes to 23psi, as nis said, the only real variation you'r going to get is from the outside weather temperatures.

Double sidded tape

I knew that :Oops:

Its really easy, Pull the kick panel off passenger side, un-screw the brackets from the ecu then un-screw the 10mm bolt in the middle of the blue wiring harness. Plug the Power FC in, it can only go in one way. Make sure its done up fairly tight, as for boost controll kit it plugs into the side of the FC you'll understand when it arrives. If you don't have the boost solinoid then you have to go into ETC > FUNCTION SELECT > the top one BOOST CONTROLL KIT > turn it off by pressing arrow.

Finally, You guys are saying that a bigger turbo is better because you'r runing less boost, as i said before if you do get a boost spike and you are really pushing you'r internals you have a greater chance that the smaller turbo will run out efficency eg not being able to produce more air their for no power. As a bigger turbo will.

Nis, Were running a GT3040 700hp version on one of our R33's its been customised maby thats why is 700hp rated? It comes on full boost by 4500rpm thats when the external gate opens.

You may be able to get it customised, changed exhaust housing - to suit higher horsepower and external gate, but thats going to cost a fair bit: external gate - $600 + Manifold will have to have pipe welded on to bolt the gate on and you will - $100 - 200? On a positive thought 300rwkw's is a awsome power figure and with a smaller turbo and internal gate response is going to be better than a say 700hp GT3040

The Stock headgasket are at their max at around 18psi. The stock cast piston will melt as they cannot take this sort of heat (25psi) for too long periods and you don't want to be making mistakes while tuning because at this boost level many standard things can brake, stock valve springs aren't strong enough the standard cam's don't have high enough lift to let 25psi of air out in and out of the engine. At 25psi you will be making a fair decent amount of power, the stock con-rods also wont handel the pressure & load on boost. The RB25 is a strong motor for what it is but once you turn the boost up things start to go wrong. Robo, A bigger turbo will cause more dammage as it can physicaly flow a greater mass of air than what a smaller sized one would, eg: If you were running 18 psi through both turbo's and you got a boost spike of 23psi the smaller turbo has more chance of running out of its efficency range their for won't make much more power but a bigger turbo will keep going. To answer you'r question, i'd would say boost, because with out boost you don't got no power but it also comes down to tuning, alot of the time this is what kills engines. I'm sure SK will let you know what the RB25 is capable of.

Turbo's are lovely but i personally would get the injectors done first, Why ? Even if you get a bigger turbo now you can't turn the boost up because you will ovbiously be lacking fuel As for computer, do a search you'll find lots on PFC vs microtech or PFC vs Wolf 3D etc etc... Happy Modding...

Thats a 340rwkw+ package their, the only let down will be the turbo as it won't be able to flow much more air over 300rwkw's. Let us know the results.

Funky, Add me to the list for the boost controller & H/C