xntrq

Pmed

I collect those kits LOL. Just in case i write my car off again. Should PM before admins chew us out for being off topic

Yeah i noticed when i looked closer at the pic on my phone.. My bad!

Do they ONLY fit on a 32 GTR? Would they fit on any other car? I drive from CBD to western Sydney on a daily basis and might just be able to spot it out if i happen to pass

95% are interchangeable. then it does come down to series 1 or 2, but even so 90% are still interchangeable. If you need spare parts to replace certain things, let me know, I've got plenty of parts lying around.

There should be a 10mm screw for the bleed valve located next to the oil cap. On rb25s anyway

Damn that's a shame your car should come with the standard kit, throw it my way because the kit will devalue your car

any pics of wheels? Might pop up on gumtree somewhere

PMed

PMed

lol yes they're bending you over and using the remaining cash to buy lubricant and lube you up. Thermostats you can buy genuine Nismo ones on ebay for under $150. $850 for labor, your judgement. I'm no mechanic but if it's faulty, it wouldn't leak, just wouldn't workand car will overheat unless the thermo stat is damaged itself then fair enough. Get a few mechanics to look at it and see what they say. My guts still tells me that it's the radiator and water problem

Found a packet of condoms under passenger seat of a R34 i was wrecking. Never touched the car again.

Found a packet of condoms under passenger seat of a R34 i was wrecking. Never touched the car again.

I've got a R33 Series 1 M spec front bar in black but could use a respray as it is peeling off. Good condition $400 ono, located in Fairfield area, pick up over post but happy to post at the right price.

PMed

black 34 with plates ending in 34G at fairfield west shopping center market plaza. just happen to be going to the same place as i rocked up

$200 FMIC, want it gone!

Bump

Red 34 on woodville rd KFC in villawood at about 8.30pm

Pmed

Did woodwork in school, everytime I used a lathe, I'd picture the tool I'm using being flicked around and stab myself in the head Though an easier and cleaner option I would think to be is just simply use a Stanley knife with blades like this: Very clean and precise cut, those blades in the picture are much more stronger and firmer to work with compared to your packaging/box cutting knifes. Though it may take some time to slice through hard plastic (unless there is a metal frame that I don't know of). I'd rather clean slice my finger off with that than having bits of me ending up like a meat pie.

Firstly, water. I was told never to run water (unless distilled, even though, just don't do it). Water expands in heat and boils = added pressure on the radiator = fracture. Whether it be a hairline or a large crack, when things heat up, the crack will open up and thus goes your coolant. Water can also cause rust and I've seen some pretty good rust f**k on engines where they've completely disintegrated the inlets. Secondly, find out roughly what area it's coming from, either front, middle or back of engine bay. Front - Radiator Middle - Possibly some hose loose or cracked due to age or other chemicals that could have come in contact and dissolve a part. Highly unlikely that it would be anything serious like engine parts, but it is still a factor to consider. Rear of engine bay or firewall - Likewise with middle, but could also be the coolant running into your firewall. I wreck mainly R33 and R34s and with them, yes there an occasional problem but since your car is a V35, I'd guess there would be better stuff in there. My suggestion: Diagnose where the coolant is coming from, change the radiator if that is the case. Pick up sludge or rust remover additive at your local auto store and run it according to the instructions on the bottle (usually has to be left in for a certain ammount of KMs) Buy Anti-Freeze & Anti-Boil Coolant Once leak is diagnosed and repaired, additive is added into coolant and run for the specified KMs by manufacturer of the additive, flush and refill coolant with the same stuff you used before. Bit of work but would save you a heap in the long run, also gives you the peace of mind that it won't happen again, not in your ownership anyway. Also don't run your car when the temp is right up to H. I don't run my 34 higher than 75% of the temp gauge. Estimated Total cost if DIY: $250 Edit: Don't forget to bleed the air out as well. There should be a screw plug thing within the coolant line that is the highest point of where the coolant runs, unscrew it, run your engine till it sits at its normal temp, get a mate to help or pull on the throttle cable in the engine bay (MAKE SURE IT IS IN EITHER NEUTRAL OR PARK AND HANDBRAKE IS ON, otherwise you will run yourself over with a phantom driver). Leave it off until you get a constant stream of coolant running out. It will spit air, bubbles and coolant out then when all air is bled, constant coolant. Bleeding will require you to replace the coolant lost as it goes. I do this by using a 1.5L coke bottle, cut off at the bottom, no cap and tipped upside down to where the radiator cap is, hold it down firm and funnel coolant in. You'll see the level rise up and down and up again and down lower again as it flows through the radiator. This is a general idea coming from R33/R34 RB25 experience.

Sorry mate, motor is staying whole as is. $170. Can post to anywhere in aus.

PMed nah, standard

not yet man