chook

thanks, seems to be a leak which only forces itself out under some pressure. Will try blocking off the hoses at each end and pressurising the system to see if it shows itself.

Just got back from my 3000k road trip, Stag performed fine, got 10.5L/100km (9.5km/L), which i was happy with. However, during the trip the intake developed a leak i think, idling fine but will no longer reach desired boost, about 0.05 bar below, and has a low pitch whistle sound above 0.5 bar, not there before and separate from the usual spooling sound. Done a quick check of hoses, and now thinking it may be around the turbo itself. Anyone have any ideas on the most likely place for a leak on the turbo ? seals. gaskets etc PS sydney drivers, the horn is not a blinker.

look brand new, no need to change.

just use a tape measure, or put them side by side, with load off. 225/45's

checked my spacesaver diameter, pretty much exact diameter as my 17" tyres, shouldnt upset the Attessa getting to the next town. ...one more thing i never forget to take is my multimeter.

do spacesavers different in size for different models ? eg I replaced ths 16" stagea with 17" 34 Gtt wheels, are the spacesavers different in diameter for the 2 cars ?

I am off on a roadie as well, Brisbane to Canberra and back, not as isolated as yours though. I am just taking a tool kit, I figure i should be able to fix most things that could go wrong.

What were the differences you saw between the 2 ? I have ordered this one, http://item.rakuten.co.jp/ap-murase/pc205b/ , (pic is not relevant) but in the table at the bottom it is for an R50 pathfinder as you said, but there is note next to WC34, basically saying that it is not an exact fit. So I am assuming it will require a modification. There is also a possibility that the N15 Pulsar ones are a close match, but im not sure if the Oz model had them fitted. Will post pics once I receive them.

FYI; R32 or R33 GTR ones are same part #s, give the general parts classifieds a go, probably more common.

the 0V510 is a superseeded filter, not made anymore, Nissan will give you price for the 0V525.

Im also going to try to get some, prob from japan. From that Jap guys DIY, looks like you get these ones, AY684-NS003, http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w26837896 (R33 ones) and trim the end down, in the spot where they look like they are meant to be cut.

Ive searched many Japanese sites, only a few options for aftermarket filters for C34, plenty for M35. This guy did the same as ST, cut the bracket. http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/127545...90838/note.aspx

my cross brace comes off, so I can remove bottom one and top slides down, id keep trying to pull the top filter out as you said.

the M35 ones look a lot simpler, C34 filters are fancier and enclosed in a plastic bracket, hence the hefty price of $170 for the pair. My paper is starting to look a little ragged after a few washes, might have a go at swapping some new filter paper/cloth into the brackets. Could be a chance the M35 ones are a standard Nissan size, RCA113P (30 X 219 X 200), that are used on other models. eg a MAXIMA/PATROL/PULSAR/X trail etc ... can someone confirm the size. http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/pr...ma/part/RCA113P http://www.advancedauto.com.au/pics/Cabin%...%20location.pdf

these are for standard Stageas, some pretty broad figures, eg rear toe for auto 4wd, 3.9mm in to 1.3 out, and the camber figures are +or- 45' (0.75 degree), any decent wheel aligner will choose his own settings based on experience, not many people stick to the factory settings. Lots of threads about best wheel alignment settings.

this is from R34 manual:

posted before but here it is again, S2 fuse box translation.

no, Engine ECU is behind passenger side floor kick panel, and Auto one is on drivers side f.k.p.

you never know, maybe the ecu's are just like pc's, they need to be reset / rebooted (which happens when codes are extracted) every know and then. Wouldnt hurt also to unplug and replug the ECU and the A/T ECU to eliminate a bad electrical connection there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3569100 it will just flash the codes straight up, and keep repeating them

reading your first thread again, sounds more like an engine problem. Usually when you get an A/T fault the A/T light will flash, not just come on, and record a fault in its log. the next step would be to try the ECU diagnostic, there's a few threads on how to do this, basically find your consult port and jumper 2 specific pins together for a few seconds after turing on ignition, then count the flashes. let me know if you cant find the info.

should be very similar, do you have a switch that says 'snow' or similar. Guess you could give it a try with the switch in one postion, then try the next position.

must be 4wd ones, as they are different to 2wd. eg GTR ones will fit, gtst wont

run the 4AT transmission diagnostic, could be something simple like a bad connection or faulty solenoid. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3605428

was quite dusty, probably due to all the country dirt roads ive travelled on recently. Also applicable for M35 owners, see pic.