chook

Darrin, could you tell me the diameter and length of the S2 pump please. Im also after an upgrade for my S2, probably go the SARD, which is 122mm x 38mm. Probably not a bolt in going off you pics. Also, what size pump would people recommend 130L, 165L, 200L ? and is a regulator neccesary for a stocko engine ? thanks

the return pipe on this one goes behind. http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/products/int...nissan/er34.pdf http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/products/int...ont/nissan.html for return on other side im guessing you would have to go a GTR one if you want ARC http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/products/int...san/nissan.html

Doesnt the R34 GTR use a Helical LSD, same as the S15 spec R ? If so, then you should use a non-LSD oil. I have a helical LSD and use Castrol Syntrax 75W-90. check castrols site under S15 diff oil, they specify the use of non-lsd oil.

gave up trying, no Australian software available, also technology has moved since late 90's, so it would be a very basic style system anyway, aftermarket is only way to go.

here are thicknesses, 53mm for type Z, KL020439 http://www.koyorad.co.jp/products/racing.html part #s here http://www.koyorad.co.jp/images/main/produ...mage/lineup.pdf bought from http://www.nengun.com/koyo/radiator

Already bought the KOYO, much larger than the factory. Ive also got a davies craig cooler from my last R33, together with the large S2 stock tranny cooler should be fine. Regarding bypassing the radiator cooler, ive read some conflicting advice, davies craig website says it is fine, just a slight loss of cooling. Considering the radiator thermostat wont open for 5 or so minutes, it wouldnt have any warming effect initially, dont think it is an issue for Australia conditions. Ill check with a few experts before installing.

Yeah Vin # 3739 is not much to go on, in FAST there is an RSFOUR "WGNC34 123739" same paint, same interior, same year, although auto could have had a manual conversion when they did the engine swap. Would still be a nice car if you could knock them down to low 20's high teens.

I agree, my previous halogen lights were much more dangerous, uneven bright spots and poor visibility because the housings were not designed for that bulb. A lot of work goes into shaping a housing for a particular bulb to get the light spread correct. The factory Stagea HIDs give a very even light which cuts off nicely at the top for oncoming traffic, which the halogens dont. I have never been flashed at, nor seen any discomfort when coming over a hill crest, i dont believe it is an issue for oncoming traffic because of the eveness of the light. I feel much safer with the HIDS and the authorities need to revisit this.

had same problem a while back, try this, worked for me http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/157929

thanks, stock ecu, although replaced battery last week, may have upset something, will drive it around and see if it appears again after clearing the error codes.

Had my 4WD light appear a few times this week, did some research and came up with this info for S2 owners. If your light appears you will need to check the codes in the control unit. -access the ' data link connector', bottom right side of dash behind flip down door. -ignition OFF -ground bottom middle terminal using a wire. -ignition ON -observe flashes (also beeps) of ABS light -it will start with 12, 1 long flash then 2 short. -it will then flash the fault codes. -to clear the codes, whilst in this diagnostic mode, disconnect the grounded terminal, then ground it 3 or more times, for at least 2 sec, within 12.5 sec. restart diagnostic mode to check they have been arranged. Mine took a few attempts before the codes were cleared. 21 Front right wheel sensor (open circuit) 22 Front right wheel sensor (short - circuit) 25 Front left wheel sensor (open circuit) 26 Front left wheel sensor (short circuit) 31 Rear right wheel sensor (short circuit) 32 Rear left wheel sensor (short circuit) 35 Rear left whel sensor (open circuit) 36 Rear left whell sensor (short circuit) 41 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit 42 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit 45 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit 46 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit 55 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit 56 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit 57 Battery voltage 61 ABS actuator motor and motor relay circuit 63 ABS acutuator relay circuit 64 FR & RR G sensor 1 65 FR & RR G sensor 2 66 FR & RR sensor 1 or 2 68 G sensor voltage 69 Side G sensor voltage 71 ATTESA E_TS PRO/ABS control unit and circuit 72 Throttle position sensor 73,74 E-TS/LSD actuator motor 76,77 Pressure switch 78 Air bleed switch 79 Oil level switch 91,92,93 E-TS solenoid 94,95,96 E-TS fail safe solenoid 97,98,99 LSD solenoid http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation Ok, mine flased the codes 12,72,92 (Throttle position sensor and ETS solenoid.) Can someone tell me where exactly the ETS solenoid is ? and what can be done about the TPS ? just replace ?

12v in as normal, and the ballasts transforms this to 80-90 volts

Got a leak on my top tank Radiator seam, could prob get it recrimped/sealed but id rather put the money towards an upgraded radiator, as i have experienced a high needle towing my boat last summer. Anyway, my question is, since most/all upgraded radiators are designed for Manual transmissions, without the internal tranny cooler, can I forget about this cooler and just rely on the S2 external transmission cooler, which is quite large ? ie what % of cooling would the radiator transmission cooler perform ? maybe i could fit a secondary external cooler ? any ideas ? Im looking at getting the KOYO type-Z radiator. http://www.koyorad.co.jp/products/allalumi.html

mine was cut very close to the ballast, so the 3 wires(+ve, -ve, safety) were unusable. I bought a D2R harness(make sure it has good length wires>10cm), which came with the high voltage wires. I took the ballast lid off and soldered the new wires onto the old, making sure to insulate the join well. The inside of the unit is encased with a silicon/rubber insulation, had to dig some of this out to get to the wires/solder joins, re seal it all with silicon, lid back on with sealant. There is also a safety wire, to prevent the unit operating without the bulbs in place in case you go sticking your finger in to the bulb seat. This needs to be overidden since we are not using the factory harness, i had to earth/or power(high voltage power) this wire ??, cant remember exactly, easy enough to test on the bench, try earthing it firstly then power on this 3rd wire, see which one lights up the bulb (high voltage ! use caution). You then jumper this 3rd wire onto the correct wire, depending on your test results. Of course dont forget to connect the 12v and earth input wires. Has worked brilliantly since. You would be amazed at the difference, just the way NISSAN intended, before i couldnt see S#$& at night. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D2S-D2R-Bul...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Philips-D2R...sspagenameZWDVW

Why dont you beg to the compliance guy to leave them alone, or at least not to cut the ballast harness, ive known some compliance shops to leave them alone on request. Mine was also butchered, I had to take out the headlight assemblies, buy new bulbs D2R's i think, new bulb harnesses and wire them into the old ballasts. He is lying when he says that they have to be ruined, it is possible to halogenize them without interfering too much with the xenons. At least get him to save your bulbs...or take it to different compliance shop.

havnt got a 91 Bathurst poster, but a 1991 calender and others, available to anyone in Brissy if they want a scan it.

Could only find 2 references to this part # 38420-RS200 and also 38420-RS201 (in japanese) , mentions it is a selective model, no mention of 1.5 or 2, looks like they were available in both. Also have a read of this http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8305 http://www.poweraxel.com/nismo/news/news2000/n000040.html Looks like it is an old short lived model, perhaps a Nissan dealer could look up the part # or someone with an old Nismo catalogue.

is it a DVD or CD system, and what brand ? It will depend on whether Nissan used your model of SATNAV in an Aussie model, then it should be just a case of buying the software. The S2 WGNC34 stageas have the XANAVI satnav which is useless outside japan as no software has been found to date to activate it.

nothing was touched in the engine bay, pipes went into the factory rubber hoses. Ive heard from another member who fitted one to a S1, no problems as well. I got mine in the classified section privately, but new cond, for $900, not cheap these days for an IC, but you pay for quality and ease of fitment. ie, rather not spend days getting pipes made up to fit. http://www.nengun.com/arc/intercooler-front-mount

All done, next step, Dyno.

some pics of my current R33 ARC intercooler into S2 Stagea installation, no major dramas, just a slight trimming of the bumper support, IC mounts lined up nicely with existing holes.

The Stagea has 3 or 4 (cant remember) separate aerials in the rear glass, and the factory tuner box selects the best signal from one of these at any given time, called diversity aerials. Some more expensive boxes have diversity inputs, but are way too expensive. I just cut off the mini plugs on the aerial cables, stripped and joined all of them together into 1 cable and put a RF plug onto it. As I said before, these aerials have a silver box, possibly a signal booster, hidden behind the rear pillar panels, these get power to them when the tv tuner is selected from the screen. Without this power the aerials are weak. But we are using VTR2 ie no power, I found the wire, cut it and put accessory 12v to them. There is probably better ways to get a signal but i want to keep mine as factory as possible, ie no external aerials. The unit comes with an IR extender cable, about 3m, which i placed under the glovebox, next to the flare holder. All pretty easy to use. For sound you just need a headunit with RCA line-in plugs, run audio cable from DTV box to headunit, or if you have factory headunit, just straight to the factory VTR2 plugs in the factory tuner box from the DTV box. It all hidden in rear left panel underneath the factory tuner box.

Installed a new TV tuner, to simplify my setup, as this one doesnt need an NTSC converter, so there is everyones answer ! will output in NTSC. I had to connect it to my home TV first to change the menu to NTSC, otherwise you wont be able to read the menu if you connect it to car first. Signal is average when driving around, perfect when stationary, although i am getting a better signal with my factory window aerials than the one provided in this kit. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DVB-T-DIGITAL-TV-TU...1QQcmdZViewItem Also, had a whirring noise from the rear of my NAVI unit, seems my cooling fan had packed it in, replaced with this one, bolt in, just needed to change the plug over. Quiet and powerful. http://www.pccasegear.com/prod5058.htm

Just about to attempt an R33 ARC intercooler fit to a S2, same side return, expecting a tight fit where the 2 pipes pass into the stock intercooler area, will post pics if a success. Have heard its an easy job with S1s, but I feel the S2 bumper is more restrictive with space.

What have people done regards to their factory speaker grills eg mesh, cloth ? The factory plastic grills look quite restrictive ie not 'acoustically transparent', especially for 6x9s which i have in the front, as the mesh opening is around 6" and not very much 'open area'. Do most people build new grills or modify the factory plastic ones ?