chook

Bit more complicated in the Autos, operates off transmission as well, requires an aftermarket harness to get it to operate on the move.

battery shouldnt have affected it, what did you do when you tidied up the wiring ? possibly you have knocked something loose. Check the Auto ecu behind the drivers kick panel, unplug and replug it and any other plug you might have touched inadvertently, might just be a loose connection from the ECU to the Auto ECU, speed signal eg

the GPs are very very dusty and fade quickly, xls should be ok for street

At compliance they will not touch diff, coolant, power-brake-auto fluid etc. best to get it done yourself with the fluids of your choice. In Japan they dont think long term, maybe 5 years max for their cars. Some things need to be changed immediately. Also consider that 83000 japanese kms is probably equivalent to 160000 oz kms or more, as most of their driving is 2nd, 3rd gear in traffic. My Japanese wife recently imported her 97 Pajero GDI owned since new, 48000kms, the diff lsd clutch packs had disintergrated, injectors were gunked up, auto was full of sludge....and i was shocked to find the original mitsubishi oil filter rusted on, she had it serviced every 10k, even the mechanics over their dont think long term. $2000 later it runs like new.

if you could give me a VIN # from a Z R34, i could check it on the FAST system and give you a paint code.

I wouldnt be too hung up about what your odometer says, there are 2 cetainties about all jap imports, they are from Japan and the speedo has been wound back. Unless you bought it in Japan yourself chances are its done well over 100k. I bought mine at 42k, with a non factory timing belt, go figure, Ive go no idea how many mine has done.

easiest way would be to power 12v camera off the reverse light, directly or with a relay. Getting it to switch automatically on your screen would be tricky, would need someone with a factory camera to study. As said before, leave it on VTR2 all the time. Off the topic, what's the trick, if any, to get your screen to stay off ? i can keep it off temporarily until i need to touch the screen/operate the air con etc, but then i have to go back into the menu to turn it off again.

im in

you could make a notch in the rim of the filter, get a flat screwdriver onto it and knock it with a hammer to try and turn it.

got mine fixed for about $1000, but unfortunately they couldnt match the white pearl very well, they claimed they were unable to duplicate the process nissan used to achieve the white pearl, ended up respraying doors bonnet and 1/4 panels.

are there plugs for these in all stageas, or did nissan wire up manual and auto stageas differently behind the dash ?

cleaned mine out, check this, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...filter&st=0

it will just unclip from the cluster housing, havnt replaced mine, but have taken it off and polished the minor scratched with plastic polish, came up brand new.

I installed this on my Skyline and then onto my S2 Stagea, as used by Nissan on some models, infrared unit on steering wheel, electric unit, as said before, dont get vacuum. Bought from Autobarn, installed myself, little fiddly to calibrate just right, but once thats over, it is bulletproof, and has a factory look about it. Also bolted straight into the existing throttle body setup. http://shop.importdriver.com.au/store/prod...em309.inetstore

sounds like your solenoid is doing nothing, either electrical or mechanical inside solenoid, try someone elses R34/S2 Stagea solenoid, check the wires, or go aftermarket. Also double check that the hoses went back on the same way, easy to mix up the 2 connections on the solenoid.

the S2 'navi' models have a TV tuner box in there, got any pics ?

you would also have to ensure your have the photoelectric sensor on the dash and the hardware box directly underneath it, thats where i pulled the plug to stop mine operating.

http://www.sr20forum.com/240sx-s13-s14-rwd...all-thread.html http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=8...ghlight=helical Same diff, diff car....

I dissconnected my auto light feature as it would flash on then off at dusk if i went under an overpass and other cars would think i was flashing them.

Just about to install a SAFC NEO and was wondering if anyone didnt bother with low throttle settings because in 'closed loop' any adjustment made would be relearned by the ECU and cancelled out over time. Im sure if anyone re tested their low throttle mixtures, they would have returned to their pre-SAFC levels. Also, has anyone disconnected their O2 sensor and run in 'open loop' at low throttle after a tune ? or would the ECU detect a problem and try to run extra rich ? cheers

I think they are G4's http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/P...ogen/Q10-G4-12V and yes, the main bulbs are D2R's

Can anyone recommend a rustproofer in the Brisbane / Gold Coast Area for my Stagea, and also my Pajero. Anything I should look out for ? cheers

Where can i buy Mintex Pads, either xtreme or 1207's, in Australia ?? thanks http://www.xtremebrakes.co.uk/site/products/brake-pads.asp

Does anyone know what type of Ferodo pads these are ? possibly Formulas ?? thanks

http://www.threedoubleyou.com/cdm660.htm I run this NTSC converter along with a 12V digital STB, plumbed into the VTR2 inputs, wired into the factory window aerial, quite an effort, but well worth it.