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Mckhenry

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Everything posted by Mckhenry

  1. If you are still keen contact me on 0412356651, never saw your reply sorry.
  2. Hi All the price has dropped to $2,200, vehicle is still registerred, my grandfather wants it gone.
  3. it is all a negotiable, I am somewhat tempted to keep it.
  4. Hi All, This is going to sound like a joke almost, but my grandfather has handed in his keys and he is selling his car of 26 years, his bronze GX Sklyline. He bought the car back when I was 14 in 1987 and he was the second onwer having bought the car with 900km on the clock. It has been garraged every night of it life, hasn't got a spot of rust and for its age it is in ming condion. The car has done 178,000 km, everything works, new brake pads & rear muffler, tranny serviced at 120,000 along with timing chain and belts, tyres 50%. I believe the engine uses no oil and the car is licensed for another few weeks. It would suit someone looking to restore or modify, the car was in the hail storm in Perth a few years back, there is some damage on the roof, bonnet and boot, but minor. Incredibly well looked after, he is looking at offers over $2,800. email me at [email protected] for more info or a test drive/ viewing.
  5. The supplier sent out some mesh for the cavities on the bumper and guards, it is a little too large. the stuff that came with the bonnet is a little too small. Does anyone know where you can get mesh of the same size and similar strength of the original GTR infills?
  6. Finally I have had the chance to do some work on the car, it has been a pretty big couple of weeks. On the engine front, we are delayed by the sump and rings at this stage, they are both in the water somewhere making their way to Australia, so the block and head remain as they were. In regards to the body, I did get some primer on the front end, it is working as a bit of a tell tale coat, showing up pin holes of which there are many! As many have said previously, buy the NISMO parts, you could easily spend the other $7,000 on making them look respectable. Lots of bubbles, pinholes and pretty sloppy workmanship unfortunately. But at least it isn't holding up the project at the moment, so the time taken isn't much of a factor.
  7. How much $$? Also you have a contact #?
  8. How good is the finish on the splitter, is it pinholed at all? I have been chatting to Empire Aero too, does anyone know if they are any good?
  9. Cheers Bobby, How much for the rear guard covers? I know what the top pic looks like all to well! Hey do you know where the splitter came from in either pic?
  10. So that is the R-Tune bonnet with fiberglass guards? Looks good, have you got any detailed pics with the bonnet shut? Nismo indicator lenses would finish it off nice too.
  11. The guards are Seibon, they are the same guys that did the bonnet on my car. They are fiberglass with a couple of layers of carbon weave, I would be surprised if they fit any better than the parts I bought. In regards to the bog, I haven't even taken 500gms from the tin yet and most of that ends up being sanded away, there will be 10x more weight of paint go on the car, it just looks a lot, but there isn't that much there. I am just fussy about the finish, i want as close to a mirror finish as I can, but that is me. I don't consider a dent free car to be straight unless what is reflected in the paint is clean. It is kind of hard to explain, but have a look at most cars that have had done what I an doing if you see a picture of the painted parts, have a look at the clarity what is reflected in that and what happens to that image if you move around the vehicle. I am just taking the time whilst the car is down, to do the best job I know how to on the body. The body kit isn't that bad in fitment and compared to the $10,000 price tag of the NISMO front end, it gets to suck up a few hours making sure it will look the part.
  12. Nothing too exciting today, getting ready to build the bottom eyelids up a little and matching the bonnet and bumper up. A day spent trying to make everything fit in the end. I put some strips of fibreglass on the bottom eyelids round the headlights will be matching that gap up in the morning. Once done it will be time to start prepping for primer
  13. Well things go well on the engine front, still waiting to get some pics, but the block is dipped, decked, machined, clearances and honed. waiting on the total seal rings to begin assembly. The #5 cylinder suffered some scoring and scratching due to the problem being diagnosed late, but this all cleaned up perfectly at 86.5mm so that must give me at least 12 more cc to help push those turbos ;-) The head has cleaned up like a bought one too I am told, so still very happy about the progress, if all I have had to additionally account for is the new sump and diff by the end of this I will be a happy man. Machining will start on the head next week, so all things are tracking towards having the engine back mid to late next month. There will be another day go into the body, my headlights are in, there is going to be a bit of work go into getting the right gaps around the headlights, can't wait
  14. I hope so Richard! I am going through one of my why have I started this phases, this really is a rollercoaster. I was blown away by the diff and sump price too, keep waiting for the deal to be snatched, but the crate N1 motor is going where a front 34 diff ain't a necessity, so my gain hopefully. I was expecting to pay up to $1,000 for a new one. May help to bring a tad more tightness to the driveline too, though I have been told the outgoing diff was in great nick. I think I had better stop trying to buy stuff off you, every time I try, catastrophe follows
  15. I am pretty sure it all comes from Josh, I did buy through Mu Secret though. they are clearly about a couple of inches too short. Email is [email protected]
  16. Well a good 6 hours went into the body yesterday, thanks to a hangover and numerous obligations, no chance of getting any work done today, hoping for a full or half day tomorrow. Most of the time has gone into setting the creases right, the guard to bonnet was a little wayward, also these guards sit a lot flatter across the doors; I fully adjusted the drivers door in and still needed to build the edge by 2-3 mm or so. they also wrap tight and a little narrow at the bottom, so the bottom and lower side is requiring about a 5mm build up underneath to match up with the skirts; and about 2mm on the side. to match the factory skirts. Will need to do some work to the inner vents, the door tape is brushing against it, currently, a little paint thickness will see it rub and damaged. The bonnet was also sitting very high, I sanded down the back bolt hole as much as I dared to allow the bonnet hinge to close lower than it had, but still had about a 3mm disparity. Requiring a bit of a build up on the top of the guard. The next work on the passenger guard is to come off and and have some internal hand sanding in some detail area, will give it a week for the chemicals to disburse then primer filler it, so for the next few weeks it is just sanding sanding and more sanding :-) You will see a little bog floating on the guard, it is an interesting area, rubbing up over the mounting point for the indicator it seemed to indent a little to the top of the guard, so it was filled and feels a lot better now.
  17. We are thinking along the same lines, I reckon it was for a GTT also. It would be nice to see a real Nismo splitter to put this debate to bed.
  18. F'n spell check splitter not splinter
  19. I definitely think u need the full splinter to cut out some underbody turbulence and create some downforce
  20. That is interesting, I thought the point of the R-Tune bonnet was to pull more air through the FMIC and radiator, could be wrong though. The guards are internally vented to pull hot air from the engine, so that will help the bay stay cooler. The splitter was too narrow for the bumper, this isn't related to the length, there is a user on here with a top secret splitter available, I have PM'd him, but failing that I will fix the one I have I guess.
  21. Scored a new diff and sump from an N1 engine, brand new $550!!!! You got to love it when a plan comes together
  22. Looking to drop the hammer on some of the Enkei GTC01's 20x11+18, they will weigh a tonne, but will put some R compounds on the stocks for track days. They will be dressed in Falken F452 275/30/R20's. the tyres in US are soooo cheap!!
  23. Hi Granthem, It does have Xennon lights currently, but they have been doctored in there, so I found out the other day, the fittings are dubious to say the least! I guess it wouldn't hurt top put it out there to see if anyone has any Xennon loom clips to solder in from a wrecked vehicle. UNfortunately the headlights are getting some plastic welding done to them currently. Can't really do too much with the body until they come back.
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