trbo32

Problem fixed. The fuel pumb was gone. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and all is as good as new.

I see the words "stop posting" and I think. Gee, that's a great help. I think it might be my fuel pump relay switch. I'll have to use a pulse resistor on the injector to be sure, but I have a feeling that the relay switch might be stuck, stopping the signal to the pump and injectors. By the way, my timer and alarm were off during the testing. So this is not the problem.

Yup all lights working, radio, alarm and turbo timer, everything! All fuses outside were ok. Only one fuse in the cabin was blown, but this was replaced by the RACV guy. The guy didn't know what the fuse did, because the fuse box is in Japanese. The car still didn't start.

Hi guys, I have a problem with my car, of course! I went to the servo and poured some fuel and when I was leaving I went to start the car and noticed that the car wouldn’t start. It kept trying to start, but it wouldn't turn over. My battery was dying and so I just thought it was the battery that was the problem. I had my father in-law jump start me, but that didn't work. The car still didn't start. He then told me it was an electrical fault of some kind. So I called RACV. The guy came, whacked his jumper cables on (we all know how powerful their jumper cables are!). However, the vehicle still didn't start. He then started tinkering around, totally dumbfounded. Lets be honest people how many times have you seen roadside assistance for a Skyline import? Never!! Anyway, he took out his trusty power sensor thingy and pulled out my fuel return line and told me that I'm not getting any fuel returning back through the return line. He also told me that there is no power to my injectors and my fuel pump. So the fuel pump wasn't pumping and the injectors weren’t....urm....injecting!! I was then towed home!! Now I know it wasn’t the fuel, cus I pour Synergy 8000 all the time and I haven’t had any problems from that servo. What I wanted to know is. Has anyone had this problem before or heard of this problem? I have a feeling something else is wrong and the computer may have shut down the fuel pump and injectors. Is this possible. I thought maybe my fuel filter was blocked, but that still doesn’t explain why the pump and injectors aren’t working! I’m really stuck. My car battery has fully died on me now by the way. Does anyone have any good mechanics that they can recommend in the Melbourne area, preferably in the western suburbs. Thanx guys :headspin:

Does anybody know where you can get an RSR muffler or RSR products in Melbourne? It's for an R32 Thanks

C'mon guys, are we going to get a straight answer or what? What are these coolers flow tested at and the HP rating, are they Hybrid, yes or no? Or is there no stats or details on these coolers? If not, where were they purchased from?

What's the pressure drop, boost rating, HP capacity of these FMICs? Do you have any 600x300x100? Very interested. Looking to purchase within a week or two.

I just bought Yokohama ES100s today, the guys are putting them on as we speak!. They are $255 per tyre, but I have stock rims so i had to get 225/50Z R16 92W. I wanted to get 255s but they don't come that wide for a 16" rim. I wanted the 45 ratio tyre wall, but apparently for my type vehicle it is too small and illegal, due to the weight. Which i wound strange as it was 225/45Z R16 92W. But 50Z is ok. The V102 was on an extra $50. I was considering these, but the difference is minimal and the ES100 is such a good performer that i could justify the extra $200.

What's the name of that engine flush product that comes in a black box?? It's expensive and supposed to good. Can’t remember the name of it though! Anyone know what i'm talking about?? :lol

I thought the pineapples were used in the Skylines to help remove the Hicas in the rear wheels, allowing you to drift like a mad dog!!!

For me it's like the car turns over (not literally ) and it idles like it's going to stall on me and then in a couple of seconds it the revs build up and it idles fine.

My 32 used to start first time everytime, but since i put Motul 3000v in the engine, it's a little harder to start now. It takes a fee seconds to build up to a smooth idle. It only does this when it's cold. Not sure if the oil is to blame though.

When did you last change your gear oil? You might need to change it with better quality oil. I have a rough gearbox too, i'm thinking of buying the Redline stuff to put in my gearbox. Should cure the roughness.

Oh ok, i was not aware that the temp metre is reading off the coolant temp. But with everybody saying that they notice an increase in their temp when running a pod, wasn't that read off their temp metres? The pod, certainly turns heads

I would just like to say that I bought and installed my new pod filter today. I'm a first timer with the pod, as I was a firm believer in the hi-flow panel filter in the standard box theory. Well, let me tell you now that I installed my pod, I ain't going back!! I was accustomed to the sound of my slight induction noise, on boost, and a slight swoosh of my stockie plumb back BOV, when off the accelerator. I can now safely say that was a thing of the past. I after I put the pod on, I took it for a test drive and I could not believe my ears!! This pod is so damn loud!! I know that a lot of you here have already experienced this feeling as most of you all run pods, but from my point of view it came as a shock. I didn’t think that there would be that big of a difference from what I had. You hear the rush of the induction as the boost builds and then it turns into this surge of turbine noise and then I release my accelerator and Whooosh!! I suddenly have a BOV!! :wassup: I want to also state that in terms of a power increase the car seemed the same as before, which is really saying something, considering that it is sucking in all this hot air. Also my temp doesn't move, whether I’m stopped at the lights or driving, it just sits where it's supposed to be. I have to say the Blizt Sus Core LM pod is great, I’d hate to think how loud the Sus Power LM pod is, as this is loud enough and half the price. Also it filters a bit better than the Sus Power LM, which is a bonus. Next on the agenda, heat shield and cold air intake. :jump:

It won't put much stress on the gearbox. The Skyline gearbox can handle a lot of power. It's when you start running into the 9's when you consider changing the internals of your gearbox. If you’re doing a performance upgrade then changing the clutch and flywheel is a great idea, as it helps transfer the power to the wheels, where it should be, a lot easier. In regards to R33s-Goesoff's message, you should really budget in a FMIC as this is important when boosting your turbo. Make sure you have a good dump pipe, with separate wastegate pipe, front pipe and high flow cat to match your three inch exhaust. You should also set yourself a goal or a limit. Say for example 200rwklws. That way you have something to budget for. There's no point seeing what 4 grand will get you, because the more you look the more you'll want to spend. Especially with these cars. :wassup:

The only thing i'd be concerned about, and it was mentioned earlier, is if you smack the front end. Where's the bonnet going to go, straight through the windscreen that's where. Not good.

I agree with RedLineGTR. That’s why I originally bought the panel filter. I hear al the other skylines running pods, and damn it I want one too!! Your right pushead, I should get a partition if I run a pod, as is I’m getting enough lag, I certainly don't want any more. The only dilemma I have is that I don't want to spend heaps of cash on the Blitz Sus power LM. However I can get the Bliz Sus core LM for half the price but it does not have the opening at the top as it's not a stainless steel model. Decisions, decisions

Thanks Predator. Do you guys know anything about the Blizt Sus Core power LM pod? It's the one below the stainless steel and it retails at about $180. This is the only one i can find and it dont want to spend over $300 on the stainless one. Thanks again.

Hey sidewaymambo, did you ever run the pod on your car? If so, how did you find it? Did it filter fell? Was it loud? Was there any performance increase? Sorry about all the questions but i'm really considering buying one. Thanks.

For those running the Blitz Sus LM are there any temp problems and how often do you clean them, if at all? I'm thinking of buying one, but i can't find the Stainlees steel one. Only the..er..non stainles steel. hehe The review, earlier, shows that it does not filter that well. Has anybody had any filtration problems while using a Pod? I currently have a K&N panel filter in my standard air box. You can hear the induction noise from the inside and a slight BOV sound, but it's not that loud. If the radio is on all you hear is the exchaust......and the radio of course!! :wassup:

Check out the latest issue of High Performance Imports, (No.40) GT-R special No.4. They test the Trust T517z turbo.

Does anyone know how much it costs to Hi flow an R33 turbo. What power output could you get with that? And one more noop question. What excatly gets done to a turbo when it is Hi flowed?

You might want to try to place both coolers as a front mount. Grind off the end tanks and get someone to weld the two coolers together to make one cooler. Make sure the fins meet when welding, then but an end tank on the sides and pipe it through and you have yourself a cheap fmic. I've seen it done before and I does work well, but you need some who is a good welder. Get them acid dipped and no one will know :wassup: In the end, nothing beats a proper fmic.

I don't have a aftermarket temp gauge, I still use my stocky. I find mine sits just over half. Has anyone removed the heatshield on the bonnet. does this help lower the engine temp? does it damage the bonnet? Heat wise?