Steg33

Jebu, the best thing you can do to get it checked out is to get a compression test or a leak down test done on each cylinder to tell you how much blowby is occuring. If you're getting much white smoke out the back, it's a bad thing. If in the end you're getting a lot of blowby then it's your bottom end that needs doing and overhauling the top will not do a thing for you. Do a search and some reading up if you want more info. Get the checks done and then go from there.

AVCR has been sold

Black, i would only be taking it to around 12psi. It also depends on whether it's a series 1 or 2 R33. Series 1's are able to handle boost up to 14psi but if you want it to last in everyday driving, 12 is good. If it's a series 2, 11 or 12 would be a max as they have a plastic compressor wheel. This helps them spool up quicker but doesn't like them overspinning. Also, do a serch on stock turbos and you'll get some more information.

Ash, stop worrying about wheels and get that turbo back on. Get the ond girl drivable!!! Give Mark a kick and tell him to fix it for you! lol

13_Devil, i've only heard of going with a power FC for R33 because of the price and results. The knock sensor tells you when the fuel mixture is too lean and your engine starts to ignite prematurely. It should be taken care of by the wolf if it's any good. It will just flood more fuel into your engine when it leans too much. For the power you're asking (around 225-235rwkw) you'll need a decent sized fuel pump and most likely a fuel pressure regulator if you want to keep your stock injectors (much cheaper!). At that kind of power you'll probably need Z32 airflow meter or something similar as your stock will max out. An SAFC-II should just be able to cope with this or an E-manage if need be. A power FC would be great, but you wouldn't get your full money's worth out of it unless you were going for around 250 or greater rwkw. Hope it helps Plus, get a FMIC first, much more efficient and look the goods.

Good excuse to get forgies and a new turbo tho Cameron! That's the only good coming out of my rebuild. If you're gonna do it, may aswell be properly!

Don't want to be too negative Alex but i don't like the sounds of it. Get a leakage or compression test done as soon as possible incase it's doing some damage. I had the same problem with my R33, blowing a big cloud of white smoke when i eased off the gas after giving it some stick. Initially thought it was a blown turbo, then found out ringlands in one cylinder were f*cked. Hello $$$$. Worked out that there was a lot of blowby in one cylider causing the cloud, but as the pistons heat up and expand, the problem doesn't seem so evident. Full rebuild in the process for me. Hopefully get the car back this week. Hopefully for your sake it's not so bad. Good luck

Depending how much power you had before you put in the LINK ECU, if it is tuned right and you've had the cat taken out, there should be a fair chance of reaching 200rwkw with the mods you've got. You should have gained noticably when the cat was taken out also. Depending on the condition of the turbo/motor, who knows. Get it dynoed and post your results.

Drew, as everyone else here is saying, forget the turbo at this point. Just get the car and at least get it boosted up to 12psi or so. Then do the basics of FMIC, exhaust, filter, and someting for fuel settings. Once you're there, then you can think about getting yourself a 2530 or highflowing your stock turbo or something. Your car wont last as long if you just strap on a bigger turbo without all the base mods!

It's looks unanimous from here. Get the brake done! Forget your comfy seats at the moment you soft c0ck! lol If the seats are cheap at the moment, they'll be even cheaper when your brakes are bed in and you've got more money. Brake, Brakes, Brakes (My recaros are very comfy tho, hahaha)

Name: Adam Nick: Steg33 Location: Western Suburbs Car: Black R33 95' GTS-T E-mail: [email protected]

What size rims re you going up to R31 Girl? I think the second style looks better only if it's in an 18in, otherwise the thin 5 spokes in a 17in. Either type will be an upgrade for the liner tho.

Sounds good ash. Just set the date and i'm there. I'm thinking you're going to need a fair bit of planning for camping room if it ends up as big as Saturdays GOR cruise. My car will well and truely be back on the road by then so my hand is up. Let me know if you guys need a hand planning anything mate. Adam

Cameron, i'll just tell you what the others have and what you don't want to hear. I had the same problem 3 months ago. Started with white smoke out the back after boosting up. Gradually got worse until the problem was as you described (constant white cloud in the rear vision mirror, even at idle). Compression was down in cylinder 5 and low in another. The motor's being machined at the moment with forgies going back in soon to be safer. The only upside is that you can strengthen the whole lot while you're there if you need a rebuild. As blind_elk said, the first thing you need is a leak down test and also check if there's much oil coming out the breather pipe at the top of your rocker cover. Hate to say it but i don't think it looks good. Good luck anyways mate.

Bump

Sorry skylite, turbo is sold

G'day, i've got a Recaro RS3 seat on the drivers side but a different type of Recaro seat on the passenger side. I'm looking to swap my passenger Recaro (+ cash) for a Recaro RS3 or just buy outright so mine will mach up. Only Melbourne people. Anyone able to help me out??!

I had an EPA on my bike at the start of last year. Ended up taking it to "a" St Albans tester (without naming names) and it was way over before we even got half way to the testing RPM. For a small fee (including the test) all i had to do was get some stock exhaust pipe numbers from a bike shop for him to say he saw it on the bike. The stock numbers went on the certificate and i rode off with a "quiet" bike. If i get done again, "i swapped my exhaust system back after the test". I guess he only did it because he doesn't sell motorbike exhausts. Some guys can be pretty cool.

Looks like that's about the only proper way to get some venting to the atmosphere Frosty. It only vents a small amount but the noise is a lot louder so it sounds like a fully atmospheric BOV. If you're into that sound, then i'd say it's the best way to go! Get the sound without the usual problems!

Not a problem Al, i'll wait for them. The car's still at BMT for 2 weeks anyways.

I payed $550 for it 2 months ago so i'm fairly firm. I'am only selling it due to an upgrade because of engine rebuild. I am open to all reasonable offers for all parts tho.

Thanks for that sweetr33. Sorry if i'm doubling up. Helped heaps, but the pics of Als modds didn't show up?! I'll definitly be doing this to my bumper tho.

Frosty, if you're going to get an atmospheric venting BOV you'll need atleast an SAFC or something similar to compensate for the fuel mixtures. And also "plug" the plumback hole in your intake pipe. It can be done but you might notice a power drop after changing gears if you're giving your car a bit (has to build up the pressure again that it released).

I'm looking at cutting out the centre part of my Type M front bar so i can get more flow to my FMIC. Just wondering if anyone that's done this had any trouble and how they did it? From looking behind the bar, there's a metal bracket all the way across that looks like it's part of the body structure. Have people just cut this out regardless? Also is the front bar strong enough without the centre of it to hold it together or do i need more attachment points for it?

Parts for sale due to engine rebuild and upgrades: Apexi AVCR with blue screen in very good condition - $600 - SOLD Stock series 2 turbo - $500 - SOLD Stock dump pipe and front pipe in good condition- $150 Series 1 black 93/94 model spoiler - $100 Stock BOV - $50 AFM - $120 Melbourne people prefered but interstate will be considered. For any more information PM me and i can get back to you with pics or phone number etc..