Steg33

Fixed the taco now the problem with the tacho. A few others with the same problem but has anyone ever fixed it or worked out the cause? Still looking for where the sender is too.

My tacho has decided to play around (flickering) and then die on me. Funny thing is, once in a while on a hot day it works again. I've had the instrument cluster out and the wires seem to be fine between there and the ECU. I'm thinking it's the sender for the taco but not real sure where it is? can anyone tell me where this is or any other ideas what this problem could be? It's on an R33 GTS-T and starting to sh1t me because i don't want to be bouncing it off the rev limiter just to find out when my revs are up. I did a quick search and this dude had the same problem but to no avail: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=taco Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks

Leb, i wouldn't think there's much point to just upgrading it from a bush to a BB without changing wheels of machining out comp/exhaust housing at the same time. High flowing a stock turbo is pretty much changing it from a bush to a BB with diff wheels for better flow aswell. And also, boost doesn't = power, efficiency and flow = power so ask around about that before you upgrade without better wheels because set wheel sizes have set flow efficiencies. Good luck

Another easy way to check it is to blank off you BOV and see what you boost gets up to. If you pressure is lower when your BOV is refitted then it is leaking by the difference in pressures. And as Doc said, it will be working your turbo more than needed and creating more heat.

Tightening the spring tension in your BOV 'will' produce this flutter, even more so at high boost because the BOV will be inactive if the spring is too tight and the air will resonate back in the turbo instead of being released. Any car without a BOV will give the same flutter sound as one that's got their spring too tight, eg: boosted VL's that didn't come out with BOV's. As i've already said, if you want the sound just blank off your BOV or tighten the spring in it, but don't expect it to last a life time if it's been boosted.

Hey dynamix, you'll need to clarify this further but i'm pretty sure you'll be able to use the standard RB25DET one because the main differences aren't going to be with the motor, they'll be to do with traction control etc. There shouldn't be a real lot of difference with the two motors and tuning of them so the standard power FC should run on that motor. Also if you're runing the standard loom then the standard PFC will plug straight in.

Fluttering has everything to do with your BOV working or not. The sound is the air going back through your turbo. If you put a flat piece of tin under your BOV to block it off you will get the noise when off throttle at boost. If you adjust any BOV spring tension to tighter you'll get this sound because the BOV isn't opening at that boost level. Just means that air's going back into your turbo, not a good thing if you're running raised boost and want your turbo to last. You're better off with a pshh sound instead of the flutter.

You shouldn't get any fluttering sound at all else the BOV is still too tight. If you loosen it a fair bit until it starts leaking under boost and then tighten it a little from there you should be fine. It should be a clean opening every time, even under bugger all boost when you're off the throttle. Should be problem solved from there mate. Good luck.

Have you got an aftermarket BOV? If you have and it's set too tight then you'll get this shudder if it doesn't open fully. This is what was happening with my car anyways.

Yeah, western here too and couldn't find anywhere so far. I've sent an email to HKS aus and am waiting on a reply. Would be appreciated if anyone else has got any ideas because i don't know if HKS are going to be able to help me yet. Any other sensor brands should fit also but i haven't seen any of those around either.

It's correct that they always strap them down for downward pressure (and also safety), but increasing the tyre pressure is only going to make it easier to break traction earlier due to the tyre wall being more rigid. A tyre will have a higher traction (friction coefficent) if it's pressure is lower and there is more 'tyre' on the rollers. This is how i see it but anyone else feel free to add.

Pete, PowerFCs are a stand alone computer which plug straight in where your factory comp is. They run everying including air con etc... They get rid of your speed limiter, boost cut and so on and run much smoother over all. They'll generally cost between $200 and $400 to tune on a dyno with standard mods but they're about the best you can get of the money. Just had mine put in and am pretty happy with it. This link is about the cheapest place you'll find them: http://www.nengun.com/index.php?cPath=38_2...14e1fa8438ddc03 I bought some other bits from here a couple of months ago and they usually deliver within a week. Good luck. Adam

Bill, tyre pressure won't have any effect on the power figure at all if there is no wheel slip. Only high powered or agressive boosting turbos need to worry about this generally. Correct me if i'm wrong, but lower tyre pressures are better for grip due to the increased surface area and allowed wall stretch in the tyre, eg: drag racing.

Welcome Pete, if there's something you can't find or get help with on here then it probably doesn't exist. Fred: R33 GTR

A car having a miss is generally a cylinder (or number of) not firing, mainly due to lack of spark. It can be caused by plugs, coil packs or the general tune. Here's a link to a missing problem that isn't just at idle but might explain some more: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ghlight=missing Hope it's a help

G'day guys, just wondering if anyone knows where i can get hold of a screw in temp sensor for the HKS exhaust housing. I've got a HKS high temp guage which was mounted in the cabin when i bought the car but don't have any sensor for an input. Where do i get them???

I'm not fully sure of where it was made because i bought it off INASNT when i bought his turbo at the end of last year. The thread for the dump is still here but the dump is not as shiney now due to use, still the same part tho in good condition tho. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=dump+pipe

Sorry of rthe hijack but I've got a custom stainless split dump pipe for sale if anyone's interested. Was only used for a few months before an engine rebuilt and other mods made me change. Asking $250 but open to offers. Pm me for pics and details.

It never copped a bootfull, that's the thing. It was run in for about 3000ks running low boost and only got given a little bit lately just to drive it normally, never got past 5K rpm, not even near red line because i was paranoyed about the computer. Most of the ks were done commuting to uni. Needless to say the computer i took out got stomped on and pieces broken off everywhere. Wasn't even going to be sold once it was named the cause.

It's already got a 3037 internal gate on it when it got the first rebuild so the turbo hasn't even had a chance to boost up yet. Motor was started this arfternoon and the car is being trucked down to Race Pace to be put on the dyno in the morning. Now got the Q45 AFM and PFC in it.

Paying cost for the parts and the labour is for nothing because Benny (ex-BMT) @ Chasers is looking after me because of the bad luck. So i could have come out worse if i had to pay full price for everything + labour. That's about the only bright side of this. Still crying tho because it's bye bye to the motorbike to pay for it.

The even worse thing is that the car was booked in to get finished and the Power FC was sitting on the passenger seat looking at me waiting to put in and be tuned when the white smoke started appearing in the rear vision mirror again. This time all is taken care of, motor's just gone back in and the car should be on the dyno in the morning. Hoping for some nice figures soon.

Just had my RB25DET fully rebuilt with forgies and all the machining to match and it's been run in properly with the mineral oils etc... The only downfall is that the ECU that was in it is a remapped Jap chip and mustn't have been tuned real or had parts changed since. So without over boosting it, the picture attached is what happens when you don't put it straight on a dyno. A bit of a learning experience (expensive learning) but just a warning to anyone looking to rebuild, don't assume your ECU will be ok for running in because obviously your motor died for a reason!! If you want to make a grown man cry, melt his new forgies!

If you're looking for around 280rwkw then an HKS 3037 would do the job quite nicely and have a bit of room to play with because it's around the biggest you'll get that can still have an internal gate and save money not buying the external seperately. Would also go with the Power FC as there are a heap of good tuners around that won't have any troubles getting that sort of power at the wheels for you. For those kind of figures you will definitely have to look at injectors and all the other upgrades to go with it but will be able to get away with stock cams. I've got my internals just dropped in and am running a HKS 3037 with Power FC which will hopefully dynoed on friday to see what it will make (hoping for 280 - 300rwkw). When i get my figures i'll post them so there's another comparison for you. I wouldn't be expecting your internals to last for too long with that much power if they're still stock either.

Chastity will only get him so far monkey! If he doesn't use it enough it will fall off. I prefer to use mine as often as possible (not talking about the chastity belt either)!