riceline

have not played with the rb30 one yet... everything apears to be in the same spot accept for a sensor of some sort... going to sus it out tomoro i think... want to get the motor in the car first I will take a pic of them both see how i can go with that. does anybody know about puting the r33 one into the s13?

Hey all. I have rescently picked up a rb30 radaitor for my rb30 conversion so that left me with a spare r33 radiator. In comparasion the rb30 one is HUGE! apx twice the thickness I would guess. My r33 one was given to my mate with a s13. Just was wanting to know if anybody has ever fited one of these to a s13? He says it is to big but there must be a way that sombody knows of . Thanks guys

the die cutter that I baught last week cost me $8

you have to have a line to the head as the oil not only runs the VVT it also lubes up the cam bearing so your kinda stuck with it.. if you dont want to run it just pull the fuse i belive.. as for the head bolts a have the rb25 ones in and they work fine

gijor33 Thats a shame man that you wont get to play with your new toy for a while. Be sure to keep on this fourm when you are gone just to see how others are going and what not.. Ill be sure to smoke up the rear's when out at willobank for you I just also want to ask a few questions.. I know that I have asked them on the last page.. but not many people read back through the thread. I just need to know about the timing belt.. I have the belt (dayco 94407) and have relocated the tenisoner stud... just need to know where the timing marks on the belt would be? and how many teeth from the bottom timing mark should i be putting the belt on at? I am looking at geting new vaccume lines. Would you guys recommend it? I know that the standard radiator will cope with the load but i also know that Try09 runs a VL radiator. Is it much bigger than the skyline one? take it easy guys.

Hey guys motor is geting there very nicely.. just need to know about the timing belt.. I have the belt (dayco 94407) and have relocated the tenisoner stud... just need to know where the timing marks on the belt would be? and how many teeth from the bottom timing mark should i be putting the belt on at? Just a few extra questions. I am looking at geting new vaccume lines. Would you guys recommend it? I know that the standard radiator will cope with the load but i also know that Try09 runs a VL radiator Is it much bigger than the skyline one? If it is im going to get one and give my skyline one to a mate with a 180..

hmm ok than thanks pred.. Soon I will be looking at doing the vg30/rb25 hybrid turbo so I guess i will be considering a regulator then.

I will have the Rb30 in the car and all done by then so I would be willing to partisapate in a cruze to the coast from brisbane. Or maby even a coast to coast run if some of the other guys are keen.. I will just have the motor in so ill be keen as when it comes to a drive.

hmm i would like to get one from the group buy but im kinda hoping to get one next week.. Should have my new rb30det in the car by saturday - have to work sunday and get paid on wedensday.. On the topic of fuel pressure regulators what should I be looking at.. a Nismo GTR one? or a Malpassi? (spelling?)

I'm keen on finding out where to get one? (Brisbane) Called up repco and the guy there had no idea what i was asking for.. said he would sell me a Commodore one :$

the one's on the S15 would be the GT edition

I have got the motor out of the car... What i want to know does anybody know a way to get the harmonic balancer and clutch/flywheel assembly off the motor, The gearbox is still in the car. I'm thinking im going to have to get a motor shop to do it.

Hey mate - have you managed to find out about that other option yet?

Hey Don't Feel Cold this has been answered way back in this thread... First few pages of it were about piston's and CR from memory. Have a look there. I really think you are worrying to much about the .5 CR ratio. Save the money from doing the .5 more cr ratio and get boost controler or somthing. As for the 25det ecu - no it can not be chipped or modified. its one of the only ones that nisssan made that could not be changed (I think). 25T is running the 25det ecu with no current problems. All he did was advance the timing out to 25deg's Advanced and all ran sweet for him.

Hey guys. Hopefully sombody has read this by now. How does one get the Copper T-Peice into the block? thanks guys ok i just took a few pic's of the block in its current setup. I just baught and put on a oil filter so that I may be able to get a little more of an idea of what I am looking at here. I have edited a pic and I hope that I have pointed to the pressure sendor that I am trying to find out about. I have put a light down that hole and it is threaded so I'm asuming that I can put a screw in T-Peice into it... it does have a line coming from the oil filter part to that bit that I have pointed out.

There is No "cheap" way to do the conversion. No matter what way you do it at MIN you are going to loose a bit over a grand to it. And that’s if you do 90% of the work yourself. I have done all that I possibly could myself and I'm currently sitting on $916 spent (not using forgies) and to compare that to some of the others in this thread I have spent nothing. With still some more stuff to pick up. I would not worry about a little lower compression (well I'm not) as you have an extra 500CC's of engine size in there (just imagine what those 500CC motorbikes do) so enjoy the fact that your engine is a little more nock resistant due to the lower CR. If it concerns you that much put in a little more boost or something. I'm currently doing this motor and then looking at going to the Vg30/Rb30 hybrid turbo after its run in. just did some looking at meggala's site again and found the head torque settings thanks meggala Head torque settings These are the specs I used on my own last rebuild as supplied by Hytech engines Head is torqued down in 5 stages. 1. 22ftlbs 2. 72ftlbs 3. slacken off 4. 22ftlbs 5. 75ftlbs or 90o

i am currently using the keyborad.. somtimes when I could be bothered I hook up the stearing wheel.

Done that run it dry one night - out in the middle of nowhere. towed to a servo and it took 66.3L - but i guess that you would get a little over a L into the inlet shaft for the fuel.

Hey guys Well the RB30 bottom end is mostly together. Have got the Crank, Cradle and pistons all in the block. All of it very well oiled up. Defiantly no where near as hard as I first thought it would be... Having my girlfriends old man as an ex mechanic has also helped in a big way Everything in it is turning nicely. Have got the cradle torque up to the right tension (thanks Meggla Just am trying to find out what torque settings the nuts on the bottom of the rods should be set at? - If you have pulled it apart it’s the nuts that actually hold the rods/rod caps onto the crank that I’m asking about. I have them tightened up just wanted to know the correct torque settings so I can do them up on the torque wrench? Also I know about the Why and some of the How of running the oil line to the head for the VCT. E.g. putting in a copper T piece so that the oil can be separated at the oil pressure sender... only thing I would like to know now.... how you get the T piece into the block and one into the head? My mate says that he has an Idea of how to do it, but I would much rather have a little bit of knowledge about it first. All that I have left to do is put on the Idler bearing and the bottom end without the rb25 donation bits is complete While I’m at it what torque settings should be used for the timing belt? and what settings for the head? Thanks guys Hope you have/had a great Christmas. Wish all of you the best for the New Year

Hey guys I think I’m about ready to get onto the building of my beast. I have Rb30E Block - been honed and cleaned Rb30E Crank - Balanced Rb30E Rods - Balanced, Cleaned and polished Rb30E Pistons - Balanced, Cleaned and polished ACL Big End/Main Bearings ACL Rod Bearings ACL Piston Rings Dayco Timing belt ProTorque Rb30 Head Gasket GBC Rb30 Tensioner Bearing (for timing belt) Devcon Plastic Steel Epoxy (To fill hole in Rb25det head) Everything else is in the car on the 25det As far as I can tell I’m all ready to go Accept for a Copper T Piece for the oil pressure sensor. Copper line to run to the head and tap the hole in the head. As well as numerous amounts of oils to lube it up on assembly. Just have to paint the block and put it all together What do you guys recommend for the running in process? What I have been told is. Put it together and fill it with mineral oil - do 50km's of fairly low speed high gear driving. Drop the oil. More mineral oil in. do 450km's of the same sort of driving. Drop the oil. Do 500kms of mixed driving - normal and high gear low speed. Drop the oil. Do 500km's of just running around (city driving bit of highway, down the shops etc) and then should be ready to go. Just wanted to say a quick thanks to all evolved in this as it makes it a lot easier! Thanks guys