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Pic's of - NEW NISMO adj fuel pressure reg $150 please

1989 HSV SV89 Auto. Was a great car to learn on(mum gave this when she baught her 95 GSR Lancer - Wich was a awsome little car). Just before I got my P's baught a 1985 VK Calais Manual with a fairly well modded black 202 in it (managed a 14 flat out of it). Kept that for about 6months then got the R33 skyline. Had it for almost 3 years now. Would not go back. I'm glad that I had a powerfull car for my first. Cause it scared the shit out of me a few times. Enough to teach me to keep it off the streets.

Ska - Found it. Pm when you are ready to pick it up. As for time... Well not forever.. but as long as you need it. I don't plan on building another RB30 for at least a year or so. Have to buy a house next.

I may have a spare somwhere from a spare engine.. Ill have a hunt around for you. If I can find it you are welcome to borrow it for as long as you need.

Thanks heaps for the responce and the contact's guys. Will be looking into it. Should be good fun.

Hey guys The old man has got a spare car that he did up a few years ago for rally use. But never used it. Its a old Rwd Mazda 929 with full roll cage and suspension work done. Unsure of what is done performance wise but not really needed when just starting out. He has given me the car for what ever use I want. My question is. Do any of you know of club's to contact in brisbane to get into rally sport? Or who to contact in regards to this? Thanks guys

thats great DG. I sent them an email in the morning today. Just asking about possible costs and how it would cope with a turbo set up. I'm keen as well to use this and see how it goes.

there is a bit of difference between the gas systems that Always_me and spliff are talking about to the system that DIRTgarage is talking about.. have a read of the website its totaly different system

Is there any word on when this system will be available? Cost etc etc? might have to email them

Hey guys Just a quick one. Is the loom from a R32 RB25DE the same as a R33 RB25DE/T. I know the injectors are different. But the bit that concerns me is the knock sensor loom. I am going to get my knock sensors checked out as I belive that one of them is playing up. I have from a spare motor R32 knock sensors and the knock sensor loom as well. If they are or the loom is faulty this would be great for a easy replace. Thanks all

Hey guys Me and a mate have got a 260Z 2+2 (Kermit Green with porsche kit) L28botom end P90 turbo head. Full exhaust. lowered etc etc. My question is.. What is needed to drop in a RB to the 260? We were thinking of making a RB30DET to go into it.

Hey guys I have done a bit of a serch for this but have found nothing. I know that the TPS should read .5v on idle. My question is. How do I check it (where does the multimeter go into)? To adjust it do I simply move it up/down until i get .5V? Thanks guys

any good hardware store should have ezeouts

Motul Turbolight 4100 10-40W

I have had my R33 for almost 3 years now. I love it. I intend on keeping it for a lot longer than that. Although I am also starting to look at 32 GTR's it will be the 2nd car. Not one to replace the 33

I'm Just about to put the rest of my parts that I have been colecting for a while onto the car. I'm just trying to decide on 2 things. What size injectors to go 550's or 600's and weather or not I want a Exhaust Cam gear. Is it worth putting one onto the RB30's at all?

man there is a thread currently running about high flow turbo's... could of posted this in there. I don't know if this could be done though. Don't think I would want something as high RPM to be slightly unbalanced because I wanted to get out of it cheap.

I got my engine rebuilt/bored/balanced/blueprinted/installed by Power Break Engineering at Windsor in Qld Great guys in there (Exp Garth the guy in charge)! All accept one of them is old. They are not the quickest in the world but they seem to take there time and do it right first time. They are not RB specialists. They seem to work on everything. But they did balance/blueprint my engine. Rebuild and port the 25 head. Put it all back together and its been going sweet for over a year now.

Isn't the Gizmo a RPM shift light and launch Ctrl thing? or do they have new stuff out again.

the cooler the air to start with the better. The Intercooler can only take so much heat out of the air. So by giving it cooler air to start with you make its job easier. There for it can cool the air that little bit more again over what it would be if you didn't have the CAI. Think of it this way. Hot air in > Intercooler cools it down but a section of the intercooler heats up. More hot air in > Intercooler cools it down. Bit more of the intercooler heats up. Less cool area for the airflow to go over to bring down the temp air temps. MORE hot air in > Cooler has been working so hard to bring down the temps for so long its now a heatsink. If you start with colder air you prolong this from happening for as long as possible. If you have a really good CAI it may never happen to you.

I will be putting a RB25 S2 highflow on my RB31. Geting it done with a 360 deg thrust bearing so it will stand the test of time. Hope to run 8 -10 psi for daily driving and 16-18 psi for when I want to give it a bit. I have a Sard Trigger ebc and don't need to be running insane boost levels around town or when driving to work. Should spool up nice and quick as well. At the moment I start to make boost at 1400-1600 rpm. Full boost by 2000-2200rpm. The extra .6L makes a big difference I'm hoping for about 240-250ish Rwkw from it. But I do have the extra support systems in place as well for this.

Nice result there Joel! Can't wait to get the last few parts to go onto my RB31. Then I can get it all tuned! Just have to get the turbo highflowed (RB25 S2 turbo) and decide on what injectors I want to go. Not sure if I want 550's or 600's. They are both the same cost.

I change into 5th at 60Km's Sits around 1700rpm Still enough power to over take if needed. Have been doing so for 2 years everything seems sweet.

hey guys (I'm not a mechanic just a backyard enthusiast) Fixed it today. Things you will need. Flat blade screwdriver Phillips Screwdriver (small tom thumb style) 1M of Fuel line (5/16th's) 2 Clamps 1 roll of electricians tape Rag to clean up any spills My pipe was split so I didn’t have to drain the line beforehand. Because of this it had little to no pressure in it. IF you do. 1:To do this just pull the fuse for the fuel pump from the rear fuse bay. 2: crank over engine. It will try to start (possibly rev to 300 rpm) do this twice 3:/1A Disconnect the negative line from the battery Fuel and sparks don’t mix If you don' just go from here. First thing to do is get the car up off the ground. As you will be laying on it for a bit. I used car ramps that I have. 1: Remove the metal cover over the top of the fuel tank access area. 2: Undo the clamp from around the fuel pipe in question and remove the clamp 3: Pull the pipe off the nipple. This can be a little tight. But just take your time. 4: Get your length of new fuel line. Tape this to your old fuel line with the electricians tape. 5: Now onto the ground you go. Goto the Drivers side under the rear wheel. 6: If you look along the undercarriage of the car you will see (in my case) 4 metal lines running from the front of the car to the back. The middle 2 are the fuel lines. The outer 2 are the break lines. Follow them back to where the Rubber pipe from the fuel tank connects to these metal lines. 7: The bottom one is the line TO the engine. Top is line from the engine. Pull through the line that you are replacing. Just till the new line comes through as well. This will also bring through the new line with it. Since it is attached. 8: Go back up to the top of the fuel tank. Attach and clamp the top part of the fuel line. Really force it on hard so that it goes all the way over the nipple. 9: use the tom thumb screwdriver to undo the line underneath the car. The use the Flatblade to help you remove the old fuel line. There may still be fuel in this so watch out. Unwrap the new fuel line and remove the old one from the car. 10: Test fit the new line. Cut it so that it leaves enough room for it to fit snugly but NOT tight or loose. 11: Attach the new fuel line to the exposed nipple and clamp just like was done with the same line above the fuel tank. 12: Re attach the battery line. Turn key to ON (don't START!) this will fill the new line with fuel and give you the chance to check out the new line you have just put in for any leaks. 13: Once inspected and happy with outcome (no leaks). Start car and take for a drive around the block. 14: Once back. Turn car off and check out the lines just to make sure that everything is all good. 15: Re attach metal cover above fuel tank and your all good to go

thats tops mate! Only thing i can see is the stearing wheel is on the wrong side.