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Thanks guys, I have been thinking emap, but haven't had a chance to measure yet. Here's a pic of the dyno readout, sorry about the crappy quality

Hi Guys, Recently fitted a g35-1050- 1.01 rear to my 25-30neo. The car made 649hp @30-32psi through an auto on mainline hub dyno. 98 with direct port WMI- Only e85 in drums where I am. The car had previously made 530hp on a dynapack hub dyno and different converter with a gen 1 gt35- .82 rear and 3-inch dump. Will be racing it soon to see the difference. Specs of the motor are Built bottom, stock head with springs and 270 9.2 mm cam-tech cams, 4-inch dump down to 3-inch under the car and plumbed back gate. I was hoping for a little more like 750 or somewhere around there out of the g35 but maybe I'm dreaming. Seriously considering selling the g35 and manifold and going for a G40-1150. 1- would the gains be decent? Also will be going from a t3 to a t4 divided manifold 2- What rear housing would you recommend, ( I was thinking .95)

I first had a mac 3 port on it and hooked it up as the turbosmart 2 port method(1) says. We then fitted a 4port solenoid and hooked up as ts say, and it was a little better but not much, V88 is controlling boost Oh and 17psi spring in the gate..

High rpm boost falling away Hi guys, Running a rb30det (neo). 270 cams, good inlet and exhaust manifold etc etc. gt35 with .82 rear. Aquamist wmi. Have always ran an internal gate and had boost control issues with it spiking but then falling away.. Changed to 50mm external gate and its better. But boost still falls away at about 5000rpm from 30 to 25psi ( trying to run 30psi) Gate is plumbed into exhaust and exhaust is 3inch, one muffler no cat. The car made 545hp on that boost through an auto (Hub dyno) Just looking for some ideas, does the gate need to be vented or am I possibly out of turbo/rear housing

Had this same noise from my neo when i fitted some 270, 9.2mm cams. Had all clearances set to what the cam specs said... After having them in and out numerous times, they sent me a new set with a less aggressive ramp and the noise went away. Not saying that's your problem, just a similar situation

Have welded 4 -12 fittings to sump 3 on inlet side one on exhaust side.. Will use one as sump vent. one as drain back. (other 2 are just spares for whatever, I'd rather have it there in case its ever needed instead of pulling motor back out. Also fitting the head drain/vent. Will bung this off and only use if necessary (doubt it will be) -12 breathers from cam covers to catch can, and -12 vent back to turbo inlet eventually. Cheers for the help and will update on how it goes once I eventually get it together and back to the track.

Decided I'll pull the motor out and fit the sump breathers and drain back etc and a couple other things. While it's out is it worthwhile just to do the head vent/drain whatever you want to call it as well l. Or it's absolutely not needed and save the $200?

Thanks mate, So don't worry about the head vent. And ideally the sump breathers to catch can are the go (which means engine out). I was going to go a bigger catch can anyway. If i was to tee into the turbo drain with a -10 or-12 and run that to top of a catch can would be of any help?

Hey guys I've had a good read of the last 10-15 pages but here goes. ive got a rb25/30neo, it's a built motor with all the usual forged bits and pieces. Oil wise it has an ASR 8.5L sump, n1 pump with billet gears, all drains in the head were enlarged and cleaned up. From memory front oil feed is blocked and 1.2mm restrictor in the rear. Stock rb26 cam covers with 2 3/4 hoses to a small vented can.. Never had any issues with blow bye or anything on 20-25 psi street-drag or dyno. Just recently fitted a water meth injection kit and running around 30psi, all good on dyno and street but at the drags it started pushing oil out the breathers (about 400ml each run). Have done a comp test and leak down test and all looks good. I really don't want to have to pull the sump off. I have thought about pulling the head off and fitting a rear vent and tee'ing into the turbo drain (spool sells this kit). Just looking for some other opinions cheers

Guys what would you pick for towing a skyline etc. A td42 gu patrol. Or bf xr6t (auto)

I'm trying to work out what to do with my current setup. Built Rb25/30 neo head 270-9.2mm cams Good high mount single entry steampipe manifold Gt35 .82 rear Internal wastegate Its a street car (VL) auto with 3k stall It makes fullboost by 4200 rpm. We have no E85 up here in cairns unless its in drum. Car makes 427hp on 22psi. Id like more with out having to run massive boost levels, say a max of 25psi or so. I was either thinking of selling the current setup and going a gtx4088 or pte6466 with twinscroll housing and 6boost manifold to suite and also 50mm progate Or welding up the rear housing and buying a external wastegate, and perhaps a gtx35 with no rear housing. Would there be much to gain from going the gtx35, Or would there be a lot more to gain from 6466 or gtx4088 (without it being ridiculously laggy) And which of the two would be the better turbo I can't seem to find much of a comparison between the 2, especially on rb's

Hey guys I'm thinking of upgrading to a bigger turbo, So just an eoi at this stage Gt35/82r (genuine garret) .82rear Internal gate high mount merge collector steam pipe manifold 3inch dump pipe to suite $1500

Here's a pic of the injector with both adapters, I'll grab one with them on the car. All went well with the tune (still having a couple issues but not fuel related). Sent pics and spoke to EFI Hardware and ID about them and both said it wont affect the spray pattern. Thanks Scotty for your advice and offers of help mate.

Hahaha good old living in Cairns... Theirs a couple places around. I just got them in the car running. I'll take it down to the tuner in the morning see what he thinks about them. And also ill ring EFI Hardware to double check. Ive had to run the top spacers as well for the time being until i can get to a lathe.. But they run a retaining clip and seems nice and sturdy. I also took out the washers to pull the rail down a bit tighter.

Here's the adapter for the bottom... I'm not convinced it won't affect the spray pattern? 9mm from end of adapter to injector

Yeah I agree, I'm hoping I can just machine the rail spacers to suit and just run the bottom adapter. Got the tops just incase

I've got a plazmaman rail which is to suit full height, the dekas I just had in it were full length also

Hey Scotty I spoke to efi hardware, they have some adapters they Say won't affect the spray pattern, (they said the others do like you said) and then I just run half height extensions on the top to make them full length So hopefully that will work *sorry short extensions on top

Thanks Scotty that would be great. Since I've organised the tuner for Friday it's all turned into a bit of a rush.. So I need to have them ordered early today. If you've got one you can get hold of to check that would be awesome. If I can't sort the top spacers out today I'll just space the rail up and sort that out after the tune

Something like this? http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/51613

* looks like the EFI hardware ones also go from the top of injector to rail

Cheers mate, I have the height adapters for them to make them full length but they and most spacers go on the top of the injector? Which doesn't help with the issue I'm having Spoke to Scotty today, i may have to get him to make some spacers to go under the injector if i cant find anything else

Hi, got some id1300s for my neo, but am having trouble getting them to fit. See pic (Plug base fouls on the manifold). I was going to just grind a bit off the manifold but too much needs to be taken out. Has anyone fit these type of injectors to a normal rb25 or rb25neo manifold. On my old injectors the plug was more to the top.

Yeah, weird. I could see no reason for it not to work. Just giving my experience with it. I even pulled the little cover off the front of the gear, ran the car and activated vct, a bit of oil came out but not a whole lot (I would of expected more).

Because I did numerous tests on the solenoid, also hooked it up so it would come on with a switch to test at idle, note of engine didn't change at all. Did numerous dyno runs with it on/off and different rpm switch points, no difference. even pulled the bolt that lets the oil through to vct gear out and replaced with a Solid bolt still no difference. I don't think it was working. Could be wrong