hardsteppa

Replace the top bolt with a stud and nut...makes it much easier.

Thst looks like a black nylon compressor wheel, and compressor housing doesn't appear machined out. And no damn fool in their right mind would rebuild a turbo and machine out the exhaust side, leaving that in there.

Yeah they get stuck (as in wont pull out easy) rather than 'properly stuck' sometimes. Bit of wd40, tap lightly on the sides of sensor with a soft-blow hammer, has loosened it enough it the past for me. You need the sensor out to remove the housing anyway.

Top one should be the one you want for gtst. Pretty sure bottom one is for gtr.

^^ forum is global...tap water not drinkable in many countries, thank fk for AUS life. Now...>> yes I too was poisoned, by the Russians in a restaurant during the Cold War period when I was a spy working for ASIO. I'd tell you more about it but you know, classified, covert ops, Call Of Duty Modern Warfare, that sort of thing.

mine dropped down to around 12.5-12.8v (from memory, was years ago now, but something like that) at idle. The pulley was massively lighter than the stock steel one but, too low V for a daily driver.

The quality/finish of them was good though btw, no issues at all in that regard, and no real cooling issues, although my car keeps very low even temps anyway, with bonnet venting.

Have used an ebay-knockoff version, on an rb25. The powersteering pulley didn't fit, and the alternator pulley caused too much voltage loss. Water pump pulley fitted but needed washers behind otherwise it scrapes on the harmonic balancer, and needs a different sized belt with it obviously. Maybe a minor difference in responsiveness? Nothing huge.

OP I believe RHDJapan has info on the Nismo color-coded bearings...however they are extremely expensive/overpriced. Even oem Nissan bearings per color size are very expensive, when compared to just a set of "Standard 0 size" . The Nissan workshop manual refers to bearing colors but I only have the r33 manual, not sure where you'd find one for the r34's rb26 specs. You will note though the tolerance for the different sized bearings is extremely tight...which is good, but I just used a set of Standard-0 rod and mains bearings in previous builds/freshen-ups when no machining work was done, and clearances have been fine.

yes i was taking the pi55 about us agreeing...obviously. But wait, what, you swim??? don't you know there were 246 drownings last year, over 20 month, which makes it more risky than CoVID is to date ( and will be, as the rates are dropping), and you're doing that voluntarily??. J/k, sounds like you have put alot of restrictions on yourself, above what has been requested by the authoritah, and hey, your choice to do it, go for it.

Yes glad we agree - continuing to engage in behaviours that interact with others will spread the virus; engaging in behaviour that avoids contact with others, like going for a solo drive/ride, will not.

You do some hektiiiiiík solo burnouts Ben...with so many flights grounded, carbon footprint is at an alltime low... it would be (possibly) morally right to do it now. If busted, get a note from your GP. All for the greater good. #notacrimeblyat Note, clearly not legal advice and you may be assraped for doing so.

And yes i heard the sound of hymns being sung on the weekend from the church just around the corner...i would safely bet, none of those dogs received a fine for their congregation. I will be calling the police if i hear it this weekend though.

Its up to every individual to make a stand though, and not just join the crowd in accepting what is unfairly implemented. If someone was unreasonably engaging in risky behaviour, eg still attending Sunday mass at church???? By all means fine all and every one of those fake-satanic f*ks, but, a person driving solo and not engaging anyone from/to their doorstep, yet being hit with a fine? I consider it is up to all to voice their disapproval of this. And yes, it becomes a hard call, so up to the individual more than ever, to ensure whether at home or driving, they keep to themselves, and minimise interaction.

Let's not forget your Government will happily throw away your rights as an individual in favour of "those of the greater good" while conveniently sidestepping that every individual does make up "the greater good" overall.

Yeah but this is the world gone mad...anyone just out for a drive, or ride, not stopping to interact with anyone, poses zero risk. If they were to crash and require medical assistance, yes a possibilty of risk but the amount people with covid769 (not a typo, shout out to Procedure 769) is miniscule anyway, so versus the risk of depression and psychological issues being home-detained for no reason, it is arguably the risk-minimizing approach overall. Its like, 'drive at zero k's per hour, you have zero chance of hitting anything, therefore it justifies a zero kph speed limit". No, it doesn't.

Whichever color, just make sure you run a contrasting adidas 3-stripe on them for ghetto street-cred.

Buy silicone? Otherwise amamaya but very pricey.

sure; the work outline is here>> Also, further to the above discussion on pricing of the rods; MaXspeedingRods have emailed me a link for a discount offer on the purchase price, which is https://bit.ly/2U3Q2AU and said "coupon code is - hardsteppa -9% off for all orders over 300AUD". Please note - I don't work for them, I don't get any percentage of sales etc if the code is used, and the feedback I have posted, and will be further posting on the rods, is my own opinion. It really chafes me raw when I have a bad unresolved experience with a company (a certain very average overpriced tuner springs to mind), and so I have no issues in recommending any company that has given me a good product and service experience.

well, thing is, not counting the parts I already have lying around, the whole shortblock build inc parts and machining is going to be less than $4000. So while I would prefer it doesn't grenade, it's not the end of the world if it does.

lol....if I was to give them feedback, yep agreed. Probably sounds very dynamic in Cantonese but, doesn't translate well.

hold on, Spool rods are $600, these are $460-500 range depending on special or not? Add in brand markup, and you're talking the same price range? I assume then, you have seen them both side by side to compare and test the products to be so assured there is a vast difference in the quality for less than $20 a rod? I'm not knocking Spool's quality or products; they're a fantastic company and I've used/still using several of their products; but no it would not give me peace of mind to pay $100 just to have a different logo on it. I did say right in the first post " with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. " If people have specific first hand examples on proven issues of product failure (not user/installer error, or other unrelated failure which then caused the issue, and not, " my mate dave knew this bloke, that rekoned he once heard of this guy that had something bad happen with this thing") then it would be relevant to the topic ; however trotting out the same old rhetoric is not, as it's been posted 1000 times before and doesn't give any relevant information. You're certainly welcome to use and buy whatever you want of course, and don't let me try to change your mind - the purpose of this post is as I said, I couldn't find any info about these specific to RB's when I was researching, and my aim is to post info about them and my experience for other's future reference. I think the more reported FACTS (as opposed to just hearsay) there are of what has worked well for the money, and what hasn't, the better. My goal for this engine is 600ish hp, mayyybe pushing to 700 in the future. Stock bottom ends are known to handle 450-500hp without drama, so to get some reliability at 600 in my opinion you don't need to do massive overengineering upgrades. If I was to get 2ndhand GTR rods, as probably the cheapest basic upgrade for stock RB25det rods; by the time you paid for resizing, ARP bolts, small end bushes, balancing, you would be up for similar/maybe more money as a set of maxpeedingrods brand new, not a 2ndhand unknown age/history rod. So bit of a no-brainer as to why I'm giving these a go.

Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.

bad traders list on here? although you might need to do it through admin, dunno, never had any issues.