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hardsteppa

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Everything posted by hardsteppa

  1. I have "heard " for that particular gasket, Cometic is good, but not used it myself. Never had an issue with oem, although mine are pretty new.
  2. You would need the crank too...so no longer a budget build.
  3. Straight drop in for poncams. Retains vct. Had an adustable cam gear on the exhaust but ditched it as the poncams degree'd up to where they were meant to on zero adjustment. You don't "need" to as such but i would do valve springs at the same time, if you're still running original still. Supertech springs and titanium retainers are good.
  4. OP when i had a v.similar setup to you, i made 260ish rwkw pre-tune on 14.5 psi, using a Hypergear hiflow and Tomei 256 poncams. Largely due to turbo i believe, but both tuners i used on that setup commented about how the cams helped up top.
  5. How/where did your Cusco front arms break? And you are talking about upper, not lower? They are one of the most solid designs i've seen; adjustment is a bit limited but you can modify to get a 4th setting easy enough. I have used those 2-piece ones with no issues, but they are only joined by the centre bolt which i wasn't a fan of. Much prefer a bracketed 1-piece arm.
  6. clutch now sold. Still have set of R33 Tein springs, Aeroflow intercooler, stock r33 gtst injectors.
  7. Nismo FPR now sold, so, sorry to all those watchers that were waiting for the Yen to fluctuate further before making an offer, even though the sale is in AUD. Clutch and intercooler still waiting for the gentle caress of an appreciative buyer.
  8. You sure it wasn't saying, danger to manifold?
  9. OP, depends on what sort of life you will be giving it, or how long you need it for (eg, 3 years or 10+) . There may be flamage but i recently used one of the maxpeedingrods ebay turbos and was blown away by the quality of it for the price...with an ebay discount, it was $179 delivered by courier. Decent sized compressor wheel but small exhaust so it spooled very quick but not that much up top. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/for-Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-RB25-RB20-2-0-2-5-bolt-on-Turbo-Turbocharger-New/112108124333?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 only thing you need is an oil line, and use a silicone coupler to join the compressor outlet, other than that, is bolt on.
  10. Yes. Will run bigger injectors and coils...as far as i know, won't run a different trigger but shouldnt need to for that. And, go 3.5in exhaust if you can.
  11. Download the user manual. Dont think r33 one is available in eng but evo and honda one is, and will give you 99% of info.
  12. Sweet, good choice...the r33 is the funnest car to mod i've ever had, you'll have fun with yours too.
  13. yes I do also have one in the "for sale" thread ?, but the OS Giken and ORC Japanese clutches are amazing, IMO....I'm using my 4th one now, and I wouldn't use anything else. ORC single plate will give you great solid feel and is still suitable for traffic and daily driving.
  14. My diagnosis - you are currently parked.
  15. Gktech bushes sold. 400 now for clutch, i throw in free hat, blyat.
  16. Except in the wokshop manual screenshot above where it gives both :p.
  17. hi mate, that wouldn't be a problem but I believe postage to WA and NT is pricey compared to rest of Aus? and unlikely to have time to get it posted until the week after next. Happy to do it tho if u want.
  18. Hi mate, everything that it comes with is in the box, i havent used it. There are metal inner tubes in the kit. I will lay it all out and take a pic. You needed a clutch too right?? ?
  19. thanks dudes....no doubt the tie rods on the delete kits would be stronger.
  20. Hi mate, as these are brand new i never fitted them to say.
  21. I couldn't see any reason while there would be a difference between 93-98 R33 gtst's. Part numbers often change but the part itself is interchangeable. Amayama.com is a great resource to see part diagrams and part numbers specific to each year, and usually has cross-reference numbers...as well as being a great site to buy from.
  22. Something I've been meaning to ask for a while - I have deleted HICAS via a GKTech lock bar and ages back I bought a TOG (standard ebay type) hicas delete kit which is still sitting in its box in the garage. The kit looks solid but a few things I don't see as beneficial - first of all the toe arms are the same as your camber/traction arms, as in you turn the middle section and it shortens/lengthens from both ends at once, and is a fairly coarse thread. The stock tie rods are a finer thread, and will give a much more precise adjustment turn for turn than the delete kit arms. Also on the hub end, the stock ball joints appear to maintain a better angle during up/down movement > less bump steer, with the ball joint pin allowing sideway deflection while still being " fixed"...and replacing with a poly bush bolted to the toe-arm will turn the hub more, aka inducing bump steer. What's the arguments to the benefit of going with the delete kit, apart from it being a more solid setup?
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