hardsteppa

ok so it would seem the gears have the same amount of teeth, but the difference may be where on the face where the synchro sits. Older type is recessed slightly>> whereas El Nouveau, the modern styler...is a flat face, blyat however this is only from OCD googling in between bouts of Pornhub: not seen them firsthand to compare.

" loooool...you don't have ANY ideas? not even one? like putting fkn stock parts back on to clear the defect?? I know, i'm a genius, a real out of the box thinker.

on the plus side, it looks sweeeeeet. Big up the Wexford massiv.

^^^ that last guys post was awesome

Ok not the worst part of brissy. Not that far from Otaku Garage, they may be able to help, and would be qualified.

thanks for the offer - my 3rd gear's still intact/ok, it's just the dogteeth are a bit rounded, and since i'm rebuilding the box, would have been nice to throw a new one in but i'm about 10 years too late lol. So the part number for 3rd gear here that is still available for the later series boxes https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/3226112u14 - has anyone seen one of these side by side with the older gears and know what the difference is, eg dimensions, number or angle of teeth, etc?

Where in brisbane is the car mate?

thanks for the reply - just got an update from RHDJpn that the part number they gave me - 3rd gear Nissan 32261-12U04 - has been discontinued too, and this time they didn't have an alternate part number. I have been scouring the www over a week now and can't find any online seller that has the older type of 3rd gear, so might have to just put up with the one I have.

ahoy team rebuilding an rb25det gearbox at the moment. No idea what year it's from as bought it off gumtree but appears to be the older type with shonky 3rd-4th insert springs that are known to fail (I found their mashed-up corpses in the drained oil). Got most of the parts i need now but want to replace 3rd gear and the 3rd>4th coupler, however bit of a snag, a stumbling block if you will...the original Nissan part number for these 2 items is long since discontinued and over a week of searching, while some good info found, hasn't given me any clear answers. RHDJapan has given me this info for the 3rd gear and coupler> However for both of those new part numbers, i have read that they're not a direct-fit and need a spacer, new syncro hub and possibly other bits to make it work with the older gearboxes. Has anyone seen them, used them, or seen and used them, and know if they will work with the older boxes or not...?

Great LSD; good price on this dudes.

Stickers mate...LOT of stickers

also i find with anything like this, searching google images helps, so you can see all the bits/connection points.

if it's anything like the r33 gtst - which it probably is - go in from the bottom, remove starter motor, and you will have plenty of room to get the rear plug. I only replaced the plugs, didn't pull apart the harness, but I believe the KNK sensors and fast idle are on their own loom, just taped together with the gearbox/alternator loom, so you either need to remove it as a whole, or try cut it apart with on car - removed the whole thing, and will almost certainly be easier for you. The joined harness assembly will possibly be connected to the 3x gearbox connections, the alternator, the enginebay fusebox x2 points, the fast-idle, and knock sensors.....or possibly it will have other points too, can't remember, but that's the starting point. When refitting the starter, ditch the top bolt and put a stud/nut in there instead - alot easier to get the starter on/off in future.

When mine failed, i used aluminimum tube and a bending tool to make the stock s-shape, although obviously you could bend it to pretty much however you need. Then just use short joiners of oil resistant hose to connect to the manifold and pvc end. Will last pretty much forever, and was cheap.

Maybe i have misread what yr saying, but WTF are you talking about? I have accidentally put 95 in once, when i still had the stock ecu...it did not like it one bit, and pinged. Oem tunes will not take running shit fuel just because 'its oem'.

I find rsrr to be very decent in the wet..although that doesn't seem to be the general opinion from what i've read. But yeah no probs with them

Clipped on i believe...LOT of plastic clips on there, once screws at each end have been removed.

Are you near Wexford by any chance mate?

that's pure turbo-porn right there.

Tightened to 200 nm? It's not measured like that. The tensioner spring sets the tension. Did you follow the workshop manual instructions? It is fairly straightforward once you understand the steps, and there is a full thread on here about it for further tips.

255/40/17 is my tyre size. They're not hard to come by although agreed, 18 and up has far more options. In the 255/40/17 though, a few options/opinions> - Hankook RS4. Not used them, and seen a few user reviews that don't rate them highly for track/performance use. I believe they're meant to be a step up from their RS3 - a tyre which massively underwhelmed me, so i won't be trying the 4. - AD08r's - very good, as their reputation says. Also very expensive for what they are, and they lasted me the same time as RSRR's. - RSRR's. In my opinion the best value (not the best) tyre in that size, at $170 fitted. Good in the wet until low-tread, and they get better with a bit of heat into them. I like them alot for great overall value, and suitable for low-level track stuff. - RT615K - middle of the range price, and quite reasonable performance. However their build quality is really good, and that tread pattern is hottt. Would buy again and would recommend, although as said, wouldn't say they are top of the pile....just wouldn't disappoint, and present good value for money. - V720 - is likely to be my next tyre. Haven't used a set myself and noise isn't a concern for me, but seems for the price and reviews, they present good value, have a sexy-as tread pattern, and perform pretty well overall. I wouldn't look at anything over a 200 treadwear for any serious performance/track use, and seems the Pilot Sport 4s are more of a performance daily-driver tyre?

Etya tvů doma tovarisch :), ask and we will help.

Think theyre m12 x 1.5 but dont take my word for it. If you dont have verniers to measure then even just eyeball it against a ruler. They are high grade though, so i would buy a new oem bolt...or audi make a very good quality bolt too, fyi.

further to that, found that FC Pro labels it a little differently >> So seems yes it is for dwell change rather than timing.

I'm putting R35 coils onto the RB25 shortly, and seems adjusting the dwell in a Power FC isn't straightforward as there's no table labelled " Dwell Ms > Voltage" , and all the info I can find on setting up the R35 coils refers to directly entering the specified ms against the voltage point. While researching I read one post saying the "IGN Vs BattV" table referred to adjusting the actual IGN timing rather than dwell, but it would make much more sense if it referred to the dwell compensation as noted above by Trent, although doesn't seem he was specifically referring to the PFC. I also found this post screenshotted below, and the formula makes sense, giving around 1.7 as the dwell for stock coils. so from there, with that formula making the figures in the "IGN dwell vs RPM" > "Adjust" column around 1.7 for stock coils, to get the R35 coil dwell into the mid-4ms range needed at 14 volts you would need to enter the new increased values into the "Adjust" column at each rpm point, and once done, then move to the "IGN vs BattV" table and enter the change at each voltage as a percentage to get the desired ms at each voltage point. Does that make sense, or does anyone have any details on how new coil dwell should be set up in the PFC? ..thank you