hardsteppa

Also nismo and oem are rubber..my oem ones looked fine after 16 years when i pulled them out.

^^^agreed. Went from oem to superpro, now have nismo. Don't think i'd be able to tell the difference in a blind test...aluminium might be a dufferent story. Given its not a moving part, wear as such shouldn't be an issue.

I've found those OEM locking tabs to be useless, even when hammered with an extension so it forms around the nut....so i don't bother with them anymore. Only thing that has stayed in place for me was using inconel studs and copper locktab nuts....stayed on damn tight, so far.

Yep disregard...man i am a 'tard sometimes, probably should have waited till i got home and had a proper look before posting. All sorted; gtsboy on the money again lol.

Thanks gtsboy, yes will try this tonight, and pull plugs to see if i can narrow it down to a cylinder.

so, car is a 1996 s2 R33, RB25DET engine, running a PFC and aftermarket fuel rail. The unused centre cap of the rail had a fine leak spraying fuel out so pulled it out and put a new cap/seal on, and black Toyota FIPG on the threads cos it's a bitch to pull out and i don't want it to leak ever again. Rail/injectors are just on 6 months old (1/2 length Bosch ev14 960cc injectors). Had a real problem finding o-rings in stock though so only found new o-rings for the top (fuel) end of the injectors, and re-used lower manifold-end o-rings, which were still flexible/compliant. Starting it up this morning after finishing the job last night - no leak from the fitting, but now idling 18:1 + afr. Afr's go back to normal 14.7:1 range as soon as driving and up in the rpm range, it's just at idle, and is lumpy as a rotary too. I am thinking slight air leak through manifold-end o-rings on one or more injectors, enough to make it run lean, but any further thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Further info - when coilpack connections are pulled off one at a time it becomes a definite misfire, so all cylinders are still firing, just not fully/normally. - fuel pressure is still fine, 2.5bar at idle, changes under load/vac. - ign timing is still fine and 15 deg (Had tuned up idle and timing just before i did this job, was idling bang on 800-830rpm where i want it, and 15 deg timing). - new throttle body gasket was fitted too. - Only issue before doing this was the slight fuel spray/leak, the car itself was running freakin fantastic, and pulling out/refitting the injectors and rail was all that was done - apart from removing/refit all the other shizz you need to, to get to the fuel system.

Or you can dismantle and service them, despite engine manual saying no...i think its just time consuming, not done it myself.

Ok, so is there something wrong with your current lifters, that you need to replace them?

Klutched i have an r33 abs diff housing here you can have free if you find you need it.

I like the R37 the most...i'm ahead of my time. My favorite features would have to be the Whisper Mode and the gun turret that follows wherever the driver looks. Oh wait...no that's Blue Thunder, my mistake..

how did you go with the rack ends, find what you need? Info is here from the Roadsafe catalogue. rack end is exactly that; the bit that screws into the steering rack, and tie rod end goes onto the end of those. It's worth replacing all as they're important lol, and you need a wheel alignment after replacing any 1 of them. Bursons are a better place to get these, rather than Supercheap or Repco. GK Tech do a cut-to-length rack end that are good/cheap, and a great cromoly hicas delete bar too.

I am thinking you are long gone? but #1 for a helpful post..i applaud the man that posts info for others future reference.

rated to 300rwkw? almost 500hp at engine? not bad for organic clutch, GLWS.

welcome mate, Brissy eh? I look forward to selling you some R33 parts lol... Maybe start a thread for your project in the "builds" forum? always good to see other projects take shape.

no, he didn't say he was doing the work himself, he said he was looking to install himself. I assumed OP is a camshaft...or possibly a turbocharger. I may have read it wrong.

sold now, thanks. Still have available - NISMO adjust fuel press reg - Tein lowering springs r33 gtst - GK Tech hubcentric spacers, 2x sets - GK Tech subframe bush kit - plus more, check my other for sales threads...dekuji

ECUTalk usb>consult port cable, connects your stock Nissan ecu to laptop for datalogging, test functions and diagnostics/troubleshooting sensor and electrical issues, fault codes etc; cable in perfect cond, and comes with the info/software/programs. ECUtalk information and pricing shown here https://www.ecutalk.com.au/interface.aspx $50 posted anywhere in Oz.

lollllll... pretty sure RHDJPN had L-jetro PFC's for $1400ish? But as above, a MAF isn't THAT bad to warrant spending soo much just to remove it. Fair enough if wanting to upgrade ecu for other reasons, but not just for the maf when you have flexibility on that anyway with the pfc. The wolf 3d is ok but has it's own issues. Having used both Power FC and Wolf 3Dizzle, no fkn way I would spend a large amount of money on ecu+tuning to swap to it.

grab yourself an apexi pod filter if you want bov noise cyka, you do get a reasonable sound from the stock bov then...if you're running a decent amount of boost that is; you won't hear much on 10 psizzle.

yep sounds legit...

I did...not interested thanks mate. From what i have seen, you would be lucky to find a fmic kit for under 150, so its well priced as it is.

9 inch wide, +27 offset front and rear. Tiny bit of bend-out on rear guards, not actually rolling, and will fit front and rear fine. Or +30 offset, fit easily.

Download workshop manual. Read relevant section. It covers this. The issue you will have is that, in my experience, the exact size bearings are sold as 'each' by nissan and cost a fortune, as opposed to being able to buy a standard-0 sized full set cheaply.

I have done a little bit of aero work on the r33 gtst. - I use an ebay BeeR knockoff wing in carbon fibre (coating only, i'm sure). it was just under 800 shipped from China, reasonably quickly. Quality was good for the price, no issues with it. At 100k+, you feel the front of the car getting lighter with more downforce coming into effect on the rear. I put it on the lower-angle setting, as the higher one was too much drag...so yes, definitely do something, although the only benchmark I have is the stock gtst wing, and the r33 gtr stock wing. There were 2 widths available, and mine was the smaller - it runs right to the edge of the rear quarters/body outline...although looks wider in the pic. - I also use an ebay carbon fibre Top-secret style diffuser, with a few custom additions. it seemed to give a little more planted feel to the rear when cornering at speed, but I now have a full-length custom flat undertray, which when combined with the diffuser, IS noticeable, making the diffuser much more worthwhile/effective. The car really gets low at high speeds, and when you hit a bump in the rod, lifting the car and breaking the low-pressure area, yes it's noticeable, and occasionally a little hairy with the difference in feeling of car-control. - other items include bonnet vents, canards, front quarter vents, custom front splitter....all of which make positive differences of varying degrees. The front undertray and bonnet ducts made a massive difference to cooling, with it holding a very stable 70-80 degrees at all times other than long idle. I believe I am keeping an impartial view to it - for example, I experimented with a divider panel leading air out in front of the rear wheels (r35 gtr feature small ones) but found it made the rear unstable and skittish, so binned them. Couple of old pics - there have been a few little changes since these.

If you can find a decent auto, i say go for it. Mine was auto and i only coverted to manual 'cos it was time' but i see nothing wrong with going that way - as you say, can be a huge price difference when buying the car in the first place. My conversion kit was 1750aud and i wouldnt have spent anymore than that. By the time you buy a decent new clutch kit, 1piece clutch line, new cylinders etc, better off just getting tailshaft, box and pedals unless you get a cheap full conversion kit.