hardsteppa

He buys my nismo adjustable FPR...it' a steal ;/

hi, there is a tune on the ecu to start the car as long as still using OEM trigger, cas etc (all bets are off if you have changed from oem trigger setup). the tune is not mine - I had started the car with it but never got around to getting any real tune done with it on my car, hence me saying they are base maps with it. I was advised it was tuned for " the engine is pretty much stock, with a minor upgrade on the turbo, running a RB20DET wastegate controller. VCT is controlled via relays activated by AUX outputs of the Wolf, but the VCT solenoid wasn't working properly last time the car was on a dyno. " You WILL need to have it tuned; it's not a stock ecu, driving round on an untuned aftermarket ecu is engine-suicide. Just don't want any confusion about what i'm selling it as.

ok I will answer my own questions, for anyone's future reference. The power steering pump bearing- on the s2 R33 gtst pump at least, it's a myth, like Kaiser Soze, a fairytale, a ghost story. Or something. Anyway no bearing, the Nissan p/s rebuild kit comes with all the seals you need, BUT, no copper washers for the banjo fitting you have to remove. The rebuild doesn't warrant a walk-through; basically, remove pump, unbolt pieces, take photos to remember how to put them back in same order/position. Here is the exploded view of the pump. Relevant bits to remember - part circled in green has a black dot on it. This side goes towards the pulley - vanes circled in blue - rounded edges go outwards, square edges go inwards. - spring circled in red will likely stay in the pump after you remove the valve and then try to make an escape when you're not looking, leaving you thinking ' there should probably be a spring to go in there?" . Don't fall for its tricks. - part circled in yellow isn't accurately drawn in the diagram, it has an extension part (drawn on in purple). - when you're removing the pump and undoing the banjo fitting from the pump, you need to put a 27mm spanner onto the fitting circled in marooney-poo brown. Otherwise you may just exert sh&tloads of force and just end up bending the support bracket. Didn't happen to me of course, just sayin'...…. Yes. Moving on.... Re the ebay power steering tank. Yes it's baffled/layered inside as pictured in the picture pictured above. I went with the one branded Epman - $55 posted, money well spent. Quite reasonably constructed and machined. The mounting brackets it came with were a bit crap, but a quick bit of fab to make a decent mounting, and all good. Has a fair bit more capacity than the standard tank, and the nipples....hehhehehe...are a fkload more solid so if you need to replace the tank then these do the job cheap.

Neni muj bratr...will work, but i believe would need some changes to wiring so not "plug in"

Wolf 3D v4 ecu - standalone plug in for the R33 gtst. In good working order; also comes with 2 versions of the PC software (later version obviously more features, 3d mapping, and datalogging), 2x base maps, and an ecu>laptop cable with a QUALITY usb>serial converter cable (the white n blue one with gold connectors in the pic, is as-new, and was $70ish just for the cable). $300, and can post anywhere in Aus at buyer's expense, or pickup if local.

Hi mate, i do, and it's only 6 months old (had found a brand new one still in box). Still using it tho till i get an ecu...how soon do u need it?

upgraded valve body served me very well; have now gone manual so is up for sale if anyone wants it.

have gone the manual conversion route, leaving a few auto-related items for sale. First is a valve-body upgrade for the RE4R01A transmission. This is all fully assembled so just needs to be bolted onto your transmission and good to go. The upgrade is based off a Transgo kit that has then been further tuned by KEAS; the shifts are wayyy improved from stock without being too clunky/jerky, just a nice quick shift that holds power with no flaring. It's still in the transmission to keep everything nice n clean for the moment but hey, here's a pic of the complete transmission, just cos.... $200 for the valve body, and can post anywhere in Aus. The transmission itself; I believe one of the planet gears is slightly fkt, but still runs and changes gears excellently-like - just it develops vibration in 3rd gear around 90kph, which goes away when changed into O/D. The trans would be fine for a rebuild or for parts. $50, or will give away with the valve body for anyone local picking up the aforementioned item. Furthermore; I have a B&M auto-transmission cooler (still on vehicle, to be removed shortly). This comes with mounting brackets and custom hard lines that will all bolt in place with no mods, on an R33 gtst in the driver's side behind-front-bumper-vent-area. Ditching the stock cooler that is mounted in front of the radiator massively decreased my engine coolant temps, in addition to the trans fluid being much more effectively cooled by the B&M cooler. The B&M cooler is also very robust, pretty sure you could whack it with a golf club and it would laugh it off (no I haven't tried it) so small stones etc from the road won't hurt it. Will be pulling it off this weekend and will post pics then. Looking for $150, once again can post aus-wide.

hello everyone R33 gtst - having an issue where I'm getting a lot of the thin oily film coming out from the top of the 20 y.o OEM p/s reservoir tank. P/s pump is also leaking so thinking it's time for an overhaul - rebuilding the p/s pump with an EOM gasket kit, and replacing the tank with one of these universal items https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-Steering-Tank-Universal-Aluminium-Alloy-Fluid-Reservoir-Bottle-Racing-AU/202397956275?epid=7010549309&hash=item2f1fdbb8b3:g:WuUAAOSw9KhaHjKi:rk:9:pf:0 Has anyone used one of these tanks before and any feedback on them? The bizz the shizz, or a load of jizz? Also for the p/s pump rebuild; looks like there's an enclosed ballbearing race at the front of it just behind the pulley but can't find any info about this, or a bearing size/number (Nissan rebuild kit only comes with seals). Would rather buy this first and rebuild all in one go rather than pulling apart and then having to go to bearing store on the pushy. Don't suppose anyone would have the bearing part/size number handy? thank ya

Lol r32's just look weird. Not ugly but far from attractive...like an inbred homecoming queen from Louisianna; just doesn't look right. I wasn't previously aware of the R33 over R34 track ability that has been posted, but that's pretty cool info. I was aware of this piece of awesomeness though ☝️

come on son...everyone has an opinion, it doesn't mean it HAS to be shared...and a lot of the time, no reason for it to be. Anyway, moving on. sweet Ty, the batplate is awesome.

That could be said of any car.

They're all pretty sh#t IMO...best result from making your own. ACL heat shielding works well.

Penrite diff oils are also in mineral - this one rudebwoy>> https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-oil-80w-90-mineral?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxr-x07-H3gIVjAQqCh0v-gZJEAAYAiAAEgJGDfD_BwE I use the above oil, and have used their 85-140 one too although prefer the thinner weight. I have Cusco 1-way RS lsd in an R33 gtst too, with it set up fairly tight - 100% lock plate setup, and 8 of 12 preload springs. Used to shudder alot, but on the advice of a diff specialist, added the Penrite limslip additive, and much better now. Quite friendly on the street but still locks without issue.

have used a few more tyres to mention - Falken RT615K. Not a new tyre to the market, but first time I've used them, using a 255/40/17. I paid $250 a tyre fitted. I was really impressed; very good progressive grip and good grip in wet too. Haven't got more than 9000k's for any of the 200-treadwear tyres and these were no exception, but didn't wear faster than any of the others in that treadwear range and semi-slick type pattern. They have under 2mm tread left and still gripping well at the moment, although getting slippery in wet now. Tread pattern is soooo sexy too, and good build quality made-in-JPN tyre. Would buy again, but can't seem to find in stock anywhere for some time now. - Zestino Gredge 07R, in the 240 treadwear rating, 255/40/17. These are on the rear only, and wanted something that will last me longer than 6 months but still keeping a semi-slick type tread pattern. $160 fitted. Tread pattern looks to be a rip-off of the Bridgestone semi-slick. Been on the car a few months, and for a pretty cheap tyre, they've been quite good; raining here at the moment and gripping fine in the wet when driven reasonably. Build quality looks to be Chinese-made pretty average (ton of wheel weights on one section of the rim too) but I would expect that for the price, and performance bang for buck seems choice bro.

Caveat emptor. But on the plus side, paintwork looks alright.

They don't look bulletproof no. However after breaking oem links, then mounts, i used the adjustable ones- advantage is more, to position them for correct movement rather than twisting the link/mount. Haven't had any issue with them.

I concur. Ran the car with no swaybar for a brief while. Didn't stick with it, but did have some pleasant aspects.

Do the current tein springs not have any marking or reference on them for model or spring rate? Should do..

Best of luck old chum.

GLWS.. Wait what are u doing again

Yeah but you can order more hose online from a guy in Russia that sells it, think his name is Cyka Blyat. Or get it from...anywhere ... you don't have to keep THAT piece of hose, in factbetter to replace old hose.

No worries. Splices in there cos meant to stop car running on with turbo timer if handbrake is not on.

Not what but who. That's Jim the party wire, don't let his plain grey appearance fool you, and don't leave any alcohol in the car. Does it tie into one of the wires connected to handbrake? If so, prob for a turbo timer.

They were made in the late 90's, not 1950.