hardsteppa

Not what but who. That's Jim the party wire, don't let his plain grey appearance fool you, and don't leave any alcohol in the car. Does it tie into one of the wires connected to handbrake? If so, prob for a turbo timer.

They were made in the late 90's, not 1950.

I know...i was tempted to just stare blankly with a glazed look in my 1 working eye when he asked what size i wanted. ..but ended up going the extra mile and giving him the offset too. I assumed Koya would refuse to come out and make a personal visit to my car, see its setup and make recommendations, so i didn't bother asking, just thought, i'll look for myself. Cheap bastids only wanting a quick buck i tell ya ....

hay guise just bought another pair of KOYA drifteks 17X9, I asked for a +27 mm offset and you will not believe what I got... a perfect 27mm offset that sits just how I wanted it to. Soz T-dawg.

Thank fk Timmy didn't get them. They would find themselves in VCAT for sure.

mine is pretty much same as this. You need a dial indicator, but they're a handy thing to have around anyway, and then $25 at Bunnings for some board and hinges and you're done.

Damn right. New wheels, took it back to shop, got rebalanced. Witnessed new weight on there...had fallen off by time i drove home.

Have you checked/reset ign timing

OP are you using stock upper control/camber arms or adjustable? i think an exact length isn't commonly posted because as GTSboy says, it's relevant to the individual setup. It's prob 2 years back since i did mine - numbers are written down somewhere in the garage but to quote numbers through a foggy haze of memory, i think i measured my traction rod at 218mm stock length bolt to bolt, and ended up at maybe 223mm? The point was though, the 'best' length in my testing, was changing it by the same ratio as you change the camber arm to reduce camber once the vehicle is lowered (my rear camber is -1.75 deg). I would imagine Nissan spent a fair amount of time to minimize bump steer when calculating the suspension geometry so it would be no surprise that maintaining the same relative lengths on the arms would give the best results, to approximately maintain Nissan's geometry.

Can't wait to see photos of their gear fitted ^

isn't that an Evo?

mein gott...if coolant coming somewhere out that it shouldn't from a contained system isn't a leak, then I don't know what is. ohhkayyy mang, all the best with it, cyka blyat and all that.

so you know coolant runs thru intake manifold right; so the gasket may not be sealing one of the coolant passages.

Do you have the workshop manual? There's links online to download, or pm me yr email, will send u a pdf copy

And i'd start with intake manifold gasket. Le gaske de manifold, sacre bleu!! Possibly. I don't speak french. But i do feel confident on the leak source.

Well i only shop at Koya supermarkets so i am a little biased, but man their pasta range is incredible and delicious. Plus i just signed a 12 month contract with Koya Power and Gas, so of course i want them to stay in business.

and back on the original thread title " Are Koya A Good Brand Of Wheel? " for the price, yes, nothing wrong with them. First set I got was fine, just the offset wasn't great, because I didn't request anything specifically. 2nd set I gave a specific offset and size, and got exactly what I wanted.

but you had previously said in your submission to the forum> " I did not tell them what off-set I wanted other them tell them about the make model and year of the car - counted on them to do the research to know what off-set would fit or ask me for any other information if needed" so Adz is correct is what he has said - you only told them what car you have, no further information. That is in your own words. As you had also said " That's the power of the internet, nothing is too old.". What you say, is recorded for future reference. Your ego is unbelievable; determined in your own mind ' it's all their fault". You state " I don't feel I have to share what Car I drive or what offset the wheels had in this forum " .. I think that as you've never actually said, what car you have, and what size you asked for, that you do actually know you've fkd up, but can't admit it to yourself. Furthermore as per Australian Consumer law " a product must be reasonably fit for any purpose specified by the customer " . You're the customer. You didn't specify. I'll say it again, you didn't specify. One more time, You didn't specify. What there a problem with the product itself? Poor quality, cracked/damaged, missing parts, incorrect color? There wasn't, otherwise you would have disclosed this. As someone experienced in court/tribunal matters, I really do think you should take it to VCAT...because you are going to get ripped to shreds, and be up for tribunal costs; possibly a claim of defamation from Koya as well. Especially as you have publicly acknowledged " With hindsight, I should have taken measurements and told them what offset I wanted.". I must advise, I have contacted Koya warning them of your comments and your claim of proceeding to VCAT, and have offered to represent them in the matter free of charge, as I deal with these sort of ludicrous claims regularly in my occupation. They replied thanking me but obviously have their own legal department to attend to such matters. Do yourself a favour - look in the mirror, acknowledge your error and forgive yourself for it, sell the wheels on gumtree and buy a new set specifying exactly what you're after , following your having done the necessary research to ensure you get exactly what you have requested.

Thanks gtsb

good day old chums so, if like me, you're running a few accessories like EBC, datalogger, knocklight, AFC, they will need tapping into signals like rpm and throttle, etc, off the ecu. Query is, if you run multiple taps into the ecu's rpm wire for example, does the signal strength weaken as it's run off to multiple sources, or will the ecu wire and all associated devices get a full strength signal? thank u

I believe transmax Z is obsolete. ..and an auto trans fluid, not a p/s fluid.

Pity the fool who doesn't know about the sounds coming from Eastern Europe

Still running it actually mate, has performed flawlessly so far. Not long after i got it there was a thread on here with a part number for a rebuild kit for oem starter.

Hello old chap I am new to cars myself as i catch the bus and don't have one, but my mate knows cars real good and the last thing he said to me before he got sent down for a two-stretch was, if you ever get a turbo'd car and don't use a boost controller, make sure the wastegate is connected to the piping before the throttle, not after. I remembered it as i was expecting a goodbye or something so it seemed a strange thing for him to say, but turned out to be good advice, given your query now and the situation we find ourselves in.

i'm pretty certain whiteline and nolathane are same company (Redranger Pty Ltd). I have some whiteline, some nolathane, some superpro across the car...can't say I see a difference, just the different design you may prefer between manufacturers, eg, diff bushes. Urethane bushes have been around that long I'd be surprised if either company had some miracle advantageous compound over that of their competitor...but still charge a similar price for their product. I'd use whichever you can get cheapest. Although as above, might be better to just spend a little more and get whole new adjustable arms, and some bushes are better rosejointed.