hardsteppa

wd-40 first.

that's great John. BUMP

ended up going with bolts from this seller, as a much cheaper option https://www.ebay.com.au/str/thefastenerwarehouse

I have broken old cam cap bolts a couple of times. In my experience, they don't age well, and better to plan to replace with new bolts if yours are 5+ years old. Drilling out the broken bolt section was a bit messy with the engine in the car, but, turned out fine. I now use the Tomei cam bolt studs although, even broke one of those and it was only a few years old. DEFINITELY something to be very gentle with.

Thanks for posting your experience, I was looking at getting one of these. Though, still not sure if the money would be better spent just getting the OEM shaft overhauled.

Picked up a set of 4x 215/45/17 Yoko AD09's on the BJTM "buy 3 get 4th free deal", to go on Project White Lightning. Put them on over the weekend, after a few days running in, they had the first real cornering test today. Not sure if I've had a stroke or my face has been torn off but, fk me...Cornering to the point of physical pain, and not even a hint of squeal from the tyres. VERY good tyre.

Thanks Duncan, yes I have just reused the original bolts with blue Loctite on them. No issues with doing this so far, and I'm hard-pressed believing the 12.9 bolts will snap, more likely to mayyybe come loose...which loctite should prevent. I'm still thinking of the ARP's though, especially for the 4x rear hub bolts, carrying the vertical load of the car.

So, on the new car, OEM has used heaps of 12.9 grade TTY bolts on the brakes and mounting, suspension mountings, bearing hubs etc,with the workshop manual saying they're all single use only, being TTY. I say fk throwing away and buying new bolts everytime I want to work on something, so am considering replacing them with ARP bolts. Their 8740 cromoly yield spec seems to exceed 12.9 grade bolts - anyone with any thoughts on using ARP instead?

Federal RSR-RR semi slicks were one of the best tyres I've used in the wet.

as you should do with any rods you buy. Yeah mate yeah, still around, just don't do much with the Skyline now as it's 'fully done" and I rarely drive it. Been busy with "Operation Thunder"......no wait... "Project - White Lightning"...yes that's better. A Barina, yeah that's right, Barina, RS. Little turbo nugget daily driver. It's fun driving something that's so sh1t lol but yet still so enjoyable, and a few (ok more than a few) mods have transformed it into something that actually goes pretty well. When I do drive the R33 though it gets hammered hard every time. Posted an update on the rods in my build thread - they've been faultless. Hope you have the same result with them. For pistons on a budget I used Ross pistons - have also been faultless.

I had this happen earlier this year. R33 gtst, different knuckle but same failure.

yeah sorry but that does look pretty sh1t. I use one like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003648296789.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.6567474c9ga2rG&algo_pvid=912783c9-3044-4f88-a035-728286787b0c&algo_exp_id=912783c9-3044-4f88-a035-728286787b0c-5&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!192.70!192.7!!!121.98!!%402101f49f16923538504684434e3acc!12000026642021204!sea!AU!4138068839!&curPageLogUid=W4PW53XF41pW yes the wastegate outlet is shocking. No argument there...but with an EBC and the right sized turbo, boost control is not an issue. I was prepared to internally ground shite welds etc but it didn't have any issues like that, it is of decent thick construction, 3?+ years and no cracking, apart from where the wastegate tube comes out of the manifold. Welded that up and welded in a small brace to that tube, and haven't had any further issues. Fits GTX3076 just fine. I was looking at 6boost but bought this cos it was about $280 aus delivered so why not, and very happy with that choice years on now.

bump, to $300...just gathering dust here. Also have> Craig Davies 16-inch thermofan on fibreglass shroud to fit an R33 gtst radiator, and Craig David electronic fan controller with wiring harness ready to fit to R33. $165 plus postage to most places in Aus. Very very new. Note if you like in a warm climate like Qld you'll struggle to control temps in a streetcar with a thermofan, OEM is best, but should be fine in colder climates or track car. GTX3076Rg2 Garrett turbo, and Hypergear ATR43 ballbearing turbo. $1200 and $1000.

for the love of god do NOT buy KYB struts if they are the OEM/Excel G i think they're called? They were the most wallowy piece of crap shocks I've ever used . Get something more sports oriented but not sure you'll find much (i don't know what car you have but on that basis I will assume everyone drives an R33 gtst 😁) , probably only Bilstein, and for the rubles they will cost, you'd be better to look at MCA's, Shockworks etc as a complete unit. If you're truly on a budget the Blitz coilovers give a reasonable ride on the street but not the greatest longterm option.

to me it's the perfect size; the 0.63 or whatever it is, can't remember, is too small, so the .73 gives good spool but still enough top end flow. Couldn't say on a 770 though?. 0.73 can be a hard size to find though I think - the Pulsar G30-660 came with it, so I'm using it on the Garrett supercore.

indeed..for the gearbox, if you get a 2ndhand RB25det box in excellent condition then great, but if not, don't waste your money rebuilding it. I did, and for what it cost me, would have been better to buy a new R34 box. Although it was a good learning experience to rebuild it, it was just not cost-effective and some parts are unavailable now so couldn't 'fully' rebuild it as I'd like to have done, eg 2nd and 3rd gears. For the turbo-sale-ness, would do the Garrett for $1200 plus 30 postage, the Hypergear prob, $1000? For your build I would suggest the Garrett; I say this because from your build and going Haltech I'd say in the not so distant future you're going to want ' more" and the Garrett will likely give you more, as well as being as good as brand new...up to you of course.

to also add, in my experience the Pulsar turbos are good, but were just a little short of the performance of a genuine Garrett...get what you pay for hey. I tried both a Pulsar G30-600 and then the Garrett G30-660, and that was my impression. Using the same 0.73 exhaust housing on both.

the dyno graph I posted some time back, i think it was in the Hypergear thread? Was for a Garrett GTX3076Rg2 with a 0.82 rear housing on 98. I don't have the dyno PDF on this PC to post again sorry, but search and you should find it. It was 'around' the 300rwkw (PITS dyno apparently reads a little lower than some). I ran it with a 0.68 housing and yeah a bit small, the top end of the 0.82 outweighed the slight increase in responsiveness. I will do a sales plug lol, I have it for sale if you're in Aus and want it...only done about 2000 k's, almost brand new. I also have the Hypergear turbo I compared it to which made a little more power as per my post, but that turbo's done more like 40,000 k's, still good though. No use for either now as I've switched to the G30-660. I will say, while the Hypergear made a little more, the Garrett felt like the real power would come running a little more boost than 21 psi, like it was just starting to come alive. Sounds cooler than the Hypergear too I've gotta say 😁, more whistle than a steam kettle on the boil.

someone messaged me about this recently, asking, any issues with the rods? It's been a nice trip down memory lane re-reading this thread, ahh yes good times. Years later now, with the engine given full throttle every time it's driven, and zero issues with the engine, it's still running faultlessly. So yes, good result using the Max rods.

I used to use coppers, but now use the IRIWAY's cos yes plugs aren't hard to change on an RB but, still is maint and time, and wear on the aloominum (go USA lol) head threads everytime they're changed. The IRIWAYS have been great, but will foul a little if you putter around too much, so good excuse to give it some full volume regularly and keep them working properly. I replaced the IRIWAYs around 50,000k's? and don't know why I bothered, they still looked fine. Only on my 2nd set now for don't know how many years, but it's alot.

This is a subject that pi55es me off; tank-life 4wds can be fitted with steel and aluminium literal battering rams on the front, winches, spotlights, steel bike racks on cars etc and apparently it's fine. Yet you get told those front wings are 'illegal' and hazardous when they appear to be constructed of a suitable material, no sharp edges or corners, don't protrude more than 150mm from the body outline, etc. The section of the Code which covers this is so vague and brief, and open to interpretation for the most part that it comes down to the individual's point of view. Eg " All material is to be of a suitable thickness " suitable for what? Thick enough not to constitute a sharp knife-like edge, or not too thick that it still creates a breakable/collapsible structure in the event of collision? Depends on the specific part of course so, open to interpretation. Looks like your wing endplates all have rounded corners rather than sharp points; are the end plates more than 4mm thick?

My understanding is those numbers relate to Nissan's range of super-fine specs of standard bearings size rather than just 'here's a STD size bearing". So unless using forementioned Nissan's superfine range of STD bearings, and instead using any aftermarket bearing where you just get STD, or much larger oversize/undersizes, the numbers don't mean much..especially after work has been done on it. I tried matching the numbers VS the workshop manual during one build...too hard, too expensive, gave up.

Yes a soft plastic cap on the kp thread, just for protection and remove once in place ready to bolt up. The install should be done by end of next week and will get a couple of photos up of them fitted. Then, test drive and see what's what.

For the Blitz coilovers - no doubt they're from the BC factory but they are different. The bottom mount is much shorter than BC's, and the info booklet notes a min ride height of -35, down to -80 or something. No provision to run stock ride height. The shock thread is also different so you can't put the BC bottom mounts on to them. They have different valving; in my opinion they're noticeably more comfy on the street than BC's. Top mount, springs etc all appear the same as BC's. Mount length difference visible here> Re the tie rods, here's the GK Tech extended rods vs Stock. I've used them for years, no issues at all, and they've beefed them up since the first set i used. Shown 'ere>

Haven't done much with, or driven, the R33 lately as I have been busy working on another car, Project X...no wait, Operation White Thunder...yes that's better. Couple of weeks back though, taking the 33 out of the driveway (it's not steep, fairly shallow and mostly flat) when I hear a crack turning left. Then found the car was jammed, not reversing or forward-ing..looked and found front passenger wheel sitting on an angle I would describe as, not right at all. Turns out it was a broken toe-arm mount on the knuckle. Fk knows how it broke, as I hadn't hit anything, but I'm guessing might have been too much caster, being lowered, using roll centre balljoint and tie-rod joint, that might have been causing binding and stress over time. It was a hell-mission to get it back into the driveway and into the garage though I can say. Any other thoughts on why this would break are welcome, cos it's a pretty thick heavy duty bit of cast-ness, not something to just snap on a whim. The welding is from me trying to do a temp fix on it, but that lasted about 3 metres, broke at first turn. Couldn't find a 2nd knuckle, so bought the GK Tech knuckle set. First thing, they are LIGHT. Weighed in at 3.7kg, vs nearly 6kg for an OEM knuckle. Some pics I've fitted the passenger-side knuckle already; fits just fine for the most part. A few things. They drop the car by 20mm, which GKTech say clearly on their website. My Blitz coilovers don't have much lengthen adjustment, so couldn't raise the car, so have dragged an old set of BC's out to get it back to the correct ride height for me, as they have alot more height adjustment. More on that to follow. The tie-rod mount is much further out, so you MUST use a longer tie rod, which GKTech also clearly note. More on that to follow. They have wayyy more angle, so much so that I can't turn the wheel much without the rim grinding and sticking on the sway bar ...sorry GTSBoy 😛 anti-roll bar. I have another set of rims with 3mm more offset so will put them on but it'll still contact I feel. Rims are a 17x9 27mm offset with 255/40/17 tyres. If you use a bigger brake kit (I use the ATTKD front brakes) the mounting bracket won't fit. I had to cut out a section for the bracket to sit flush on the brake caliper mount. As per these> Don't think it will matter as there' still tons of reinforcement but, not just bolt-on if you have bigger brakus.