hardsteppa

You're talking about the stock rear brace that has an adjusting thread in the middle, that lengthens/shortens it....?

jeez that's annoying...the last post has disappeared completely. Must have been all those racial and homophobic slurs and references to jews that i put in, in addition to diff-related information...will type up again and repost shortly. anyway gtsboy that's the nature of the r200 hey, many diff-erent variants. Both the diffs i have here are the same, with a pinion spacer tube (solid cast metal item) rather than a crush tube. This page from the s14 manual matches the diffs i have, which are both 5-bolt shaft R33 items, although one with longnose/abs sensor, other one shortnose/non-abs.

when pinion parts are disassembled, the topmost spacer closest to the pinion gear has a bevel on one inner side - this goes on the gear side. Press new bearing onto pinion with fair amount of force so it's well and truly seated. Remember you're pressing the inner part (solid metal ) rather than on the moveable race. Press the new bearing housings into the housing once everything's cleaned spotless. NOW - bit of moly or multipurpose grease onto the bearing races prior to fitting. Pinion goes into housing - support it from underneath, and press tailshaft (smaller) bearing onto pinion. Don't press it all the way, just enough so it's on the shaft and secure in place - this is part of setting the bearing preload.

remove diff centre, keeping check of where everything was to begin with. Remove pinion nut - first mark with paint-pen, the location of tailshaft flange and pinion nut, and measure depth of pinion nut on pinion shaft (for reference on reassembly). Mine was 6.28mm deep on shaft on one side. Press out pinion assembly, making sure it's supported/caught when it comes out. Press out both pinion bearing races from housing (they come out easy) Clean the schiess out of everything once disassembled.

ok so after not finding too much info online for the above i feel obligated to share what i found, and hopefully will help anyone else later on. This isn't a walk-through or how-to, just some points and suggestions, and i'd suggest you be at least reasonably mechanically competent before opening the diff, also have plently of time on your hands, and a full workshop at your disposal as you'll need in additions to jackstands, range of sockets, spanners etc - at LEAST - 10+ ton press, and press fittings, bearing puller, pulley puller, torque wrench, gear dye. Firs thing, remove diff...obviously...like i said, not going to cover all that. make suitable tool for holding diff in place while you work on it

400 bucks to save having to buy a new engine soon after is a good deal. Don't use a solid pulley.

oh i see lol...yeah the purple does look a bit more sex.

why would one not try to minimize the list of their potential worries though..?

pretty sure neo actuator is physically alot smaller than r33 rb25.

so, replacing the bearings in the diff and of course there's many variants of the r200 diff so not finding conclusive answers on this, and the workshop manual i have is from the old longnose z31 diffs so not applicable for several areas. Mine is non abs short nose R33 r200 diff with cusco centre. For setting the preload on the pinion bearing, seems later variants (350z) have a crush-tube that tightening the big nut at the tailshaft end of the pinion will crush as it tightens, increasing bearing preload, so the specified torque range for the nut is VERY broad. But from the r33 diff i dismantled on the weekend (planning on doing mine shortly, test run) there's no crush tube, it's a solid cast piece and there's a shim either side of it, 1 for setting pinion height and the other for setting bearing preload i'm assuming. All well and good and the pinion is going back into the same housing just with new bearings, but givn there doesn't seem to be any "crush" there should be a fairly specific torque setting for the big tailshaft end not, which i've not been able to find..although from the nut i removed, imagine it will be 150lbs plus....anyone know the torque specs or have an r33-specific r200 diagram?

lol no DIY...pretty much like what's shown this this picture though; where they've welded a bit of metal across the arm to brace it. So either weld as they've done, or just cut a bit of round pipe to the right length to fit inside that bit of the arm then cut through the pipe, open it up a bit and wedge it inside the arm around the existing bush, then press it out.

You're talking about the front lca? You need a ball joint remover which is no big deal, just get the screw type rather than the fork type, much easier. The problem is, when you go to press out the bush the sides of the arm will bend out of shape. You need to make up a wedge to go on between the sides of the arm to keep them in position while the bush is being pressed out, and then back in. I actually welded the superpro metal bush cup into the arm when i fitted mine, its solid as a rock

ok so the clunk/grind i'm feeling isn't to do with the lsd it seems. Fitted the new clutch plates and springs - went to 8 springs now instead of 6, and 100% lock on the plates. The feel of the lsd seems smoother rather than harsher with more springs - it's clunky and noisy and many ppl would hate it, but goddamn i love the lsd...much performance drive, much enjoy.

no they have a constantly rotating code built into the plate so it will never show the same no.plate twice....honest.

Lol wait till you try to get the head back on once arp studs are sticking out of the block. Enlist a helper if you can.

so is anyone else here using a Cusco lsd or disassembled one? In the attached diagram Item 9 is a plate (washer of sorts, really) that goes between the clutch plates and housing. I got my lsd 2nd hand and it didn't have these end plates in it. As shown at 1:24min into this video though, doesn't look like it uses them for this particular centre for r200 diffs

Pretty easy to replace if you have a press, but you might just need to tighten the nut. Pull the cap off and have a check.

Springs are about $6 each. Rebuild kit is $250ish, plus about 70 postage, direct from JPN.

$50 for the diff, it's just gathering dust. Items above all still for sale.

yes definitely, have some new springs on the way along with a rebuild kit.

strutbrace and tyres were sold. Other bargains still available. Also have a stainless steel intake pipe for R33/34 - has 2x BOV return nipples for those custom setups. $75 +postage.

yes. Be very careful pulling off old hose and pushing new ones on to old plastic ps reservoir, to avoid snapping off the plastic titty...i mean, nipple. Cut hoses slightly (not heaps) longer to give you a bit to manouvre them around. I cut mine to 'exact length' as previous hoses, and wish i'd left an extra cm. Head to Enzed and ask them for p/s hose; there's only a few standard sizes I believe, and r33's use 2 standard sizes.

i wasn't aware they failed that frequently...and considering a 2nd hand one is <$100, and genuine nissan seal kit is $33, i'd give rebuilding another 2nd hand one a go.

hey team so car is a '96 S2 R33 gtst, with a Cusco 1-way lsd. Having an issue with a clunkclunkclunk pulsing feeling coming through the car from the rear when driving in a straight line, present between 25-35kph then goes away, and a grindy/vibraty feel between 1-10kph. But, when going through the 25-35kph range under any reasonable acceleration, can't feel any issue present - although goes through that km range very quickly. Things done so far - rebuilt rear driveshafts just recently, thinking this might have been the issue - no change - replaced centre bearing in tailshaft - replaced all wheel bearings with gen nissan - every single bush replaced with poly, and solid diff front bushes At low speed 1-10kph, the grindy feel is the same as you get from normal operation of the lsd when turning, it's just happening when in a straight line, so thinking it could be the plates are worn and not enough initial torque keeping it 'locked'? Measured the plates and all of them measured as worn by 0.05mm but haven't been able to find out any info about cusco lsd's to see what they class as the min thickness, and when to be replaced.

my oem Nissan gasket was metal....as all gaskets for intake joints that see boost pressure are.