hardsteppa

I just had this on my rb25 head, one return drain hadn't been drilled out fully from factory so I finished drilling it through while the head was off. All I can say is - you will need to remove all welch plugs and cold tank/fully clean out head if you do any machining. I detergent-bathed it twice, rinsed it, compressed air and vacuum-cleaned all galleries, chemical-cleaned it and compressed air cleaned it again, and still had some small bits of aluminium swarf and frag stuck in there, luckily no harm done.

hard to say from the clip but I would not rule out exhaust leak in engine bay as a possible cause.

Yoshii you need to realise theyre both internal combustion engines which are dinosaur technology now, same basic design for over 100 years. You need to be progressive and look towards the hybrid technology Porsche, Fiat and Rocklasser are using or possibly something nuclear-fission powered if you're serious about this car of yours being half decent...otherwise i'd have to assume that this thread is just a troll...?

Not that they will poke out too much, more that the guard will not cover the wider wheel enough.

Front or rear? And no.

I think your ass-dyno might need recalibrating.

Or sell it then buy it back then turbo it. As long as using an adjustable fpr it should be ok.

Or...Just turbo it and buy a sell.

I fail to see the problem.

Interesting, my experience with the rsrs is they held grip right down to the bottom of tread, something other tyres haven't, they just only lasted 8000odd k's. Will see how these go, so far so good and solid in the wet the other week.

bloody nice s15 mate. You anywhere near Wexford?

From memory the sensor needs to be something like a minimum of 60deg past horizontal to stop moisture issues in the sensor head, which doesn't leave much room to get best angle without hitting on body...so yep really need downpipe on car when marking/fitting into right location.

Will tell you in about 2 weeks lol.

^^^ there you go. +1 for the 'cleaning contacts' by unplugging/replugging.

this is why I rate hypergear, very happy with their hiflow i'm currently running. Plenty of good turbos around, but tailored specifically to rb's , well...worth supporting someone that puts so much R&D into a specific application.

I think the idea of it is extremely cool, but would like them to make an 'ardcore version of the game with ghosts/demons/etc....rather than pokemon characters. So basically when you're close some horrific ghouls will come at you bro and scare the shit out of you. This is based on my 45 seconds of seeing it in operation on a friend's phone..

got the new version of RSR's last week, the Federal RSRR. Godamnn they're seriously the noisiest tyre I've ever used, sounds like worn wheel bearings lol, but - wow what a great value tyre at $180 fitted and balanced for a 255/40/17. Mountain drive on the weekend and great grip on them, not even a hint of slip, if they're anything like the rsr's they won't last long but at that price, still great value for the performance given. PS the re003's are still bloody average. Go invo's instead in similar price range.

true, but teach a man to fish, etc.

I found the 2nd post far more useful. Intersting that the information for both posts can be found by using google. Although a dyno may be needed for the first post to say exactly.

hey simmer down now sex kitten....they do this in the same way that everyone likes to point out, when you lean them out (by moving the signal lower down the load band) it can, but may not always, add in extra/excessive timing....and moving the signal up the load band in the same rpm scale to add more fuel by way of increased airflow signal can, but may not always, pull some timing out. I would not consider them a suitable choice to 'tune' with but would consider them suitable to adjust a tune with.,,,if you get what I mean - basically don't ask them to do too much. I have found the main issue to be that with only hi and lo throttle adjustments the correction range is too broad, would be much better if there was a midrange throttle adjustment. But they aren't *shit*, just limited in their use. If OP is not in a position to buy a standalone as they say and already has an safc, then make the most of it.

that one looks fake. This one is legit - blue gasket, and genuine seller, just cheap. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/APEXi-Dual-Funnel-Power-Intake-Replacement-Filter-85mm-UNIVERSAL-500-A021-/272279905575?hash=item3f6525a527:g:YA8AAOSwzJ5XZ6cq

''played with one'', is not the same as taking the time to use them to their best effect. ie, who says you only use them for leaning out, mine adds fuel/pulls timing in top end due to boost increase.

And post up your safc settings...they can do interesting things.

Well i have found a tiny amount of looseness in a swaybar link nut will make a hell of a racket so maybe is just it "slipping" when under load?

Do you have stock brake dust shields in place?