hardsteppa

can't argue with Boiler Room....you can download a lot of set from their website too.

Run no exhaust, just side pipe. Best all round solution and user friendly as a daily driver.

that's proving the point...not hard at all to find that information, as you say... also as Nizmo Man says, depends on what OP wants from said car, suspension upgrades can be a hell of a lot more worthwhile than doing power stuff and leaving handling shite.

Baptism of fire son, baptism of fire. But that's the way, don't take no shit lol. Anyway, there's heaps of info on here about starting mods; have a good read, make a budget and list of what you're looking at doing then come back with it and ask. You're getting smartass replies cos ppl can't be fkt answering the same q's that have the answers easily available; best to do your own research then ask more specific q's.

They come out with a few taps of a sledgehammer, after you have removed the circlip of course. Its pressing them in thats trickier, as you need a proper press, the one pictured is unlikely to cut it, and a jig made up for the job. Which i have, but am north brisbane. Happy to do it next weekend if u like?

if you take the viewpoint "it's unsafe to speed" ('speeding' being over the often inappropriate limit posted by Govmnt)then the opposite to that would be, to go under the speed limit is 'safe'...which is blatantly untrue, being dependent on so many variables, eg driver concentration...do they then lapse into slumber mode or are they more worried about changing the radio station that paying attention to the road, etc.

now this, this is quality posting.

wait, you can mod skylines?? why has no-one ever posted about this or made a guide about basic upgrades???? now THATS sarcasm. hey, you do say "Any comments at all." so input is valid, no returns accepted.

Is the answer not in the name..?

If it doesn't, i don't know what will lol. Nice find.

Not sure i understand the issue. The bigger the hole the harder the pump would have to work to maintain pressure so any bigger than needed would not be good. If the pump volume changes at set intervals, eg set rpm or throttle position, the tune would accommodate this?

yes..I found this pretty straightforward too, the only thing I will say is the thread for the nut has a groove cut into it, that you deform the lip of the new nut, once tightened, to sit into and not come undone, and this thread can become deformed quite easily (don't ask me how I know...) so only use a puller, don't love-tap the end of the shaft or anything trying to get it loose from the old bearing, as the thread may easily deform and then you're in for a world of sh&t lol..

so, I replaced the passenger side bearings on the weekend as I would get a bit of a 'knock' feel over some bumps, like a worn balljoint, and a slight wander feel on passenger side, on occasion. Can't feel either now after replacing the bearings. This won't be much of a writeup as most of what you need to know is already here http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423348-kingpintrunion-bearing-replacement-hcr32/?hl=%2Bkingpin+%2Bbearing#entry6829945 my main concerns were what would be needed to separate the upper and lower halves of the upright after undoing the kingpin nut - and in my case it was nothing, they literally pulled apart once the nut was removed, the lower half falling away just from the weight of the control arm etc - and how to press the bearings out and back in. I already have a 10-tonne press ($187 delivered off ebay son, well worth it, have used it for heaps that I would have otherwise had to pay a workshop to do) so this wasn't a big deal, the bearings are pressed in but not that tight, they came out and went in easily. For the top bearing, I cut a piece of pipe about 25mm long that matched the diameter of the upright; a big enough diameter to clear the bearing and run around the face of the upright. This is so when you invert the arm and press the bearing out, the arm is supported and it leaves room for the bearing to just push out inside the 25mm pipe. I used as big a socket that would fit through the opening of the larger lower bearing (think it was 20mm?) with a small extension bar on the socket for the press to push onto. That bearing came out in one piece, no drama. I then turned the arm the other way round and put the section of pipe underneath, and went to press out the lower bearing, which only pressed out the inner race and left the outer shell stuck in the upright. Not unexpected, and I just put the arm in the vice and used a long cold chisel (long screwdriver would do fine) to give the shell a few taps to pop it out from the upright. Then just clean it all up leaving it nice n spotless for the new bearings and dust seal (kit available from Kudos Motorsports) then very easy to spray a bit of silicone lube into the arm to slide the new bearings in nice n easy on the press. Once the new bearings were in, I used the old bearings to sit them on to and press the new bearings in that little bit further as of course they exactly match the outline of the new ones, and both bearings need to sit slightly below surface for the lower dust seal to then be pressed in, and the upper cap to be fitted once all back on the car and assembled. It really was one of the easier jobs that I've done for a while and had allowed more time than it needed, as with a press and a few drifts handy to press the old bearings out and new ones in, they all went in and out without fuss. A few pics, but unfortunately didn't take any during the 'press' part of the procedure; it was pretty straightforward though. View of kingpin after upright removed upright with upper bearing out upright with lower bearing out lower bearing, with new dust seal fitted

well....if you get the right support on the arm and it starts to press out easily, it's MUCH quicker than doing the 3-stage cutting method, but sometimes that way is needed, certainly was in my case, but I did it with the knuckle on the car, and it was a PITA. PUll it off, give it a complete overhaul in one step.

+1. if I was doing it again I would just pull off rear knuckle and press them out. And poly for road car IMO.

is this the blue one that's in your avatar pic?

Wait, you're not talking about the outer nut on the front linkage just turning around when you try to undo it, right? As in you need a 14mm spanner on the inner nut, to stop it turning.

Mang, knock one out and measure it. Problem solved quicker than you can say Tarmacattackawhangei.

further to this, spent some time over the xmas break doing some more bracing on the front. The car is really nice and stiff now anyway from previous bracing done but mid-section of the car across the front seats feels the soft point now as far as chassis flex goes. So, pulled the seats out and did some spot-welding along the centre bracing that is in there from factory. Then made up a brace to run underneath the car to box in the transmission tunnel. The brace bolts through the floorpan on either side of the factory bracing bar; theory being this will complete it as effectively 'one piece' running across the car now rather than missing in the middle. Initial thoughts are it does feel a little flatter/solid early in the turn-in but really haven't had the chance to give it a good drive yet. While I wouldn't expect it to transform the car or anything, it should help, similar to a canoe using the same type of cross-brace along it's length to keep it rigid and box it over rather than having it open-sided.

I can't believe you consider in any way a morally superior person; every post I read from you that replies to a person presenting a different opinion to yours in drug use, results in you insulting and belittling the poster. How dare you, you rude arrogant prick. By all means have your own views but keep the insults to yourself and learn some manners.

sweeeeet...start 2016 right early, count me in. Will transfer $$ this week to you.

Ok. I have tein superstreets on my other car and the adjustment knob is just a hex shaped rod with a green knob on the end. Its in storage and not that close but will check next time i'm there, i don't think it will tell you anything an allen key will do anyway though.

iirc the adjustment knob is just an allen key/hex head key. So forgive me, i am unsure of your current status in ability to turn the alleged adjustment module on the coilovers in question - you can turn them now and would just like the knob to see how far it turns, or you can't turn them at all at the moment?

Look either they click when you turn them, or they don't. If they don't then amount of clicks is irrelevant, innit. If they do click, then count how many from full softon to full hardon, then work back.

Probably best to do it in your garage, might get messy in your loungeroom.