hardsteppa

lol with a fuel pressure gauge and external gate on show you're fooling no-one about it being 'stock, officer' good result on the no-head-off head stud job then, might have to look at that further myself.

sold'ed sorry dude.

Got some offsets to go with it bro if u want

Funny you should mention that, i have heard vague rumours of them breaking. Not enough to make a "thing" of, but, just that i had read that a few times before so could be something to it.

if you do decide to do the swap though, then make sure you post up a 'how to' and how it worked out for you, so that the information is online somewhere if anyone else ever decides to do it in the future and wants to search for such information.

The job of the dampers to control the bounce of the spring, and softer bouncier springs having more travel generally speaking (the primary concern being the damper being reasonably matched to the spring rate of course, neither will be giving optimum performance if completely mistmatched). The term 'reasonably' being applicable for a street/soft circuit car, we're not requiring Formulae Uno precision here. Softer springs can be offset to some degree by using a firmer damper to slow down the spring compression giving the 'feel' of a firmer spring. Conversely, a stiffer spring can be made to compress rapidly more easily when a softer damper is used giving the feel of softer suspension. This being easily evidenced by the wide range on adjustment on BC's, mine are only set a few clicks in and if the firmness of the damper is adjusted to halfway the increase is very noticeable; turn it all the way firm and it's like a bloody rock. Possibly granite or quartz, definitely not limestone. Anyway not discounting your input but could you expand on that gtsboy?

I believe the military may be interested in the apparent capability to decide weather. I know whenever i try, it usually ends up windy and raining, and i' more a blue-sky guy.

I have such offsets but the price, while reasonable, is non-negotiable. If you are happy with the price then left me know and we can arrange pickup in Sydney from where they are stored in Brisbane.

fair enough...but the Hardrace ones are half the price of the whiteline ones, what's your definition of expensive?

urrrgh...those whiteline ones are like a lot of their stuff, overpriced for what they are. Hardrace are good gear http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_28_687&product_id=180

yeah man, isn't this you? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DEFI-LINK-METER-ADVANCE-ZD-DISPLAY-DF09701-/181722489032?hash=item2a4f8120c8 I have a fake one myself and hey for $240 it's fine (so far)...but not for $475. That's a really weird price, wayyy too much for a copy but wayyy too cheap to be genuine.

There are alot of fakes of those going around, and thats twice the price of fakes....they're web pics aren't they? Maybe put up some pics of the actual one you're selling, so members here know theyre not being ripped...just a suggestion.

I can't believe you're saying you have that many issues in your suspension but yet you're putting the shudder down to an issue with the rda rotors? Come on...

that looks tough-as, very nice.

2 things - if you're tracking the car def go the 8/6 spring combo, they're a bit harsh on street sometimes but quite liveable. I woyldn't want softer on the track myself. Also the chassis bracing you mention - i poo-pooed alot of the bracing you see for skylines - until i actually tried it, and now i'm a huge fan. PM me if you would like any further info on that, its already been covered in threads on here.

as you can adjust the spring perch at will to accommodate for the extra length and still keep same ride height, I couldn't see anything tragic happening. You might get more spring travel from the extra length? Try it.

tht's why I say "adjust it most likely" . Because some can't, some can. But it's not that hard, OP how handy with a spanner are you?

Kostas - I do my own tuning and don't go to a dyno, so can't say. But you will see them making 230-250rwkw on 16-19 psi.

Brisbane 'ere.

shed cleanout part 3 - just recently pulled this turbo off my R33 GTST. It has done exactly 13,981 k's from March 2014 to Aug 2015 (I keep a maintenance log book lol)with oil/filter changed 3 times during that period, turbo still in excellent order and no issues, guaranteed. This comes ready to fit to stock manifold and standard R33 6-bolt dump pipe, but you will need new water lines (about $60 at Enzed, Pirtek etc or make them yourself) as I have used them on the new turbo. The kit from Kinugawa originally isn't quite bolt-on as they claim but is now (with exception of water lines). Included in sale is - Kinugawa TD05-18G turbocharger, with 8cm exhaust housing, wastegate ported out to avoid boost creep - spare 10cm exhaust housing, wastegate ported out to avoid boost creep - 1x spacer plate, port-matched from ex manifold to turbine entry - 4x longer studs to allow for spacer plate - 2x dump pipe gaskets, 3x turbine housing gaskets - 1x Kinugawa adjustable actuator with 7psi spring - 1x spare Kinugawa 12psi spring - 1x spare standard shaft nut, 1x spare aluminium bullet-head shaft nut, 1x spare steel bullet-head shaft nut. All new/unused - 1x oil drain outlet (does not fit R33 oil drain hose, I just drilled 2 new holes in the stock metal drain outlet to make it multi-fitment as shown in pics below, so this is new/unused) - 1x braided oilfeed hose, with 2x banjo fittings - 2x banjo fittings>AN fittings for water lines - 1x silicone compressor outlet elbow to aluminium joiner pipe, to join to your stock piping $450 for the lot, and can post anywhere in Aus for $30. I don't think you'll find a better-priced turbo upgrade anywhere but if you do, feel free to put an offer in on it.

shed cleanup - have a Gizzmo IBC-R boost controller for sale, in good working order guaranteed. Has had the standard plastic connector replaced with a quality waterproof Deutsch connector where it goes in the engine bay, cause I'm a stickler for detail where it counts. Boost control solenoid is already on a mounting bracket too. This is the rpm-programmable model from Gizzmo and has everything you need BUT, the wires pulled out of the back connector where it joins to the main unit, and I haven't been able to find the right connector in Jaycar, it should be about $10 from Gizzmo in Melbourne for a replacement though. Instruction manual included. $130 plus $7 to post anywhere in Aus or pickup in Brisbane, that is already a good price so pls no haggling/low offers.

shed cleanup - found 2x R33 7psi wastegate actuators in a parts box. Both in good order, both have had mounting bolt holes elongated for Hypergear hiflows, all that means is you can preload them a little for more boost when bolting them on, otherwise just bolt them in standard position. $20 each, pick up if in Brissy otherwise will post anywhere in Oz for you my friend, $5 flat rate.

wouldn't have to be drift, a lot of people who own skylines modify them in a similar way. Before you ditch the mechanical centre, you could check the settings and adjust it most likely to make it more street friendly. Eg set it to 1-way, not 2way, alter the order of the clutch plates to make it lock less harshly.

that's funny, what you describe is a mechanical diff centre in action. Agreed it's not particularly gentle but as above, if you fit a standard vlsd you'll like cornering and driving in general ALOT less, the mechanical lsd rocks for any kind of performance driving over the stock unit. Here in aus 2ndhand vlsd complete diffs go for about $2-300 so you'd definitely be able to get ALOT more for your mechanical centre if you decide to swap it out.

no worries. It was well over a year when I did mine and can't recall how much it needed to be lengthened but we are talking 1 or 2mm, it's a very small adjustment. Don't know if you've played around with your on alignments much but once you're in the range of where you want to be it comes down to very small adjustments indeed. Eg - front tie rods/rack ends, 1/2 a turn of these gives a couple of mm toe change (sorry not near my notes to say exactly) and I end up making adjustments like 1/8th of a turn to get it feeling 'just right'. Anyway what I'm getting at is, if you work out the percentage of how much it needs to be lengthened and you look at it and go, it's almost exactly the bloody same, it probably won't be once you get it on the car and it's doing it's job. You can make a bump-steer gauge for around $100, main cost of that is the micrometer which is handy for all sorts of other measurements anyway and good to have if you've not got already.