hardsteppa

I suggest lengthening them by the same percentage as you lengthened the rear camber arms, as a starting point.

Wait, all those mods, and.. stock turbo? Whats full boost, is your max/full boost the stock 7 psi or 25 psi...?

Changes to exhaust cam, eg via adjustable gear, will have it off centre.

Exactly, all the air temp sensor does is allow you to add an extra trim for fuel/ignition. Worthwhile, but not crucial.

Are you saying you had done as suggested and contacted Wolf in Melb, and they were unable to help you? And you have been unable to find the wolf pinout diagram online, also as suggested?

"HI"? what the hell's that supposed to mean, some sort of drug reference??? j/ks, welcome son, sit back, enjoy the free tea n coffee, but no stealing the guest soaps from the men's room.

Convert to twin turbo, then you can have deuce-dose.

wait... recently resprayed ignition barrel has been stuffed/forced no pics being put up of car engine has been taken out it's in Geelong anyone missing an R34 GTT lol... how much rego it have left on it anyway..?

^^they are a good value-for-money turbo, I would certainly agree there. Mine has been on about 18 months... still in very good order the 2nd lot of porting I did I probably should have left more of a lip to funnel flow into the wastegate rather than smoothing it into the turbine, but, bit late now.

Wolf runs an internal 21psi map sensor. As I understand it the ecu itself is the standard wolf universal ecu, they just reconfigure the pins to the vehicle specific wiring loom and load it with a base map, making it 'plugin'. hence me saying it should still have pins for air temp sensor as standard.

use the AC Delco air temp sensor http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-AC-DELCO-HOLDEN-VL-VN-VG-VP-VR-VS-AIR-TEMP-SENSOR-COMMODORE-TEMPERATURE-/251111882110?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3a776f3d7e which you will need to fit into intake piping somewhere. The calibration table should still be available on the Wolf site, if not PM me and I can email it to you. I used a plugin Wold 3d on my other car but it already runs an airtemp sensor so it was just a matter of fitting the new plug to those wires. Your Wolf will almost certainly have pins for the airtemp sensor even if rb20's don't use one, so you would just need to find them on the ecu's pinout diagram and then fit extra pins into the back of your stock ecu harness to include it in the wiring. (***disclaimer I have never seen your car or its' wiring and take no legal liability for the accuracy of my post content)

Mine's probably more a whistle sound that a whine actually. They're cheap enough, if yours does need replaceage

I went to a bosch alternator that has the fan on the front of it rather than in the casing. Has a similar whine but sounds sexier, like a jet engine idling, i like it. Once the revs go up you can't hear it anymore, i just put it down to the fan audibly moving air through thr alternator now. So anyway your alt's not a new bosch one is it?

well, you can't go wrong with that Hot4's cover, i'll say that much.

alright I feel this is a fair review of the product after running it for a while now...it's one of the worst things I've bought for some time. As above it randomly runs through the calibration sequences (and gives itself different calibrations each time) and doesn't hold the calibration I've set into it. I got a changeover unit and wiring loom from Gizzmo, and bought my own new knock sensor, but still does the same thing. It's not completely useless, in that it does record higher noise under load but its only a vague guide rather than anything reliable. It will randomly throw up a high reading at idle or very light load, and occasionally when the car hits a big bump in the road, that sot of thing. The customer support from Gizzmo was ok, but unfortunately, not much more than that. He offered a refund, and sent the new unit and loom for changeover, which was appreciated, but couldn't offer any suggestions on troubleshooting my install after I described it and sent pics and a video of it randomly calibrating itself, and no suggestions or solutions on the problem other than 'dunno, never seen that before'. An rb25's not exactly a rare, or excessively low or high tech motor after all. The instructions are basic and vague like "it will flash that setting for an extended period"....like what, 5 seconds, 2 minutes? So anyway, it is a pity as it's a product that could have been a lot of use. In the absence of something better I'll leave it on the car but as a general point of reference only, I don't feel it could be relied upon any more than that. Hopefully others have tried it on Skylines and had better experiences with it than this.

I have no idea about power fc's sorry, someone else would need to input there. I just had a similar issue on my other car which runs a Wolf 3d V4, low in rpm range under light throttle. Quick look at the fuel map showed it had a nasty hole lol, smoothed out that section and never looked back.

Whats the section of the map like that you're in when taking off? Might need a bit more fuel, which would not be as evident when aided by cold start enrichment, and if its only that small section of the map you wouldn't hit it when driving otherwise, only at takeoff.

Ummmm. Type of...?

I'll just vouch for BCs again...pulled out the passenger rear for a stripdown and clean after a creaking/groaning coming from that area. Over 3 1/2 years of daily driving and all the components still as good as new, no leaks from shocks, no issues at all. Definitely great stuff for the price of them.

it may well hit 240 with a decent ecu, I am using stock ecu with safc neo though and do my own tuning so no dyno sheets...

Roy that 2nd one is the one i use, i have both the 10cm2 and 8cm housings. It is not a physically small turbo, turbine housing is much larger that stock, so i consider its response to be very good, it may not have any boost creep on a lower displacement rb20 with the wastegate ported out?

guessing you're not in Brisbane from your car pic there but if you are you're welcome to have a drive yourself to check it out before I swap 'em over.(td05 will be for sale cheap too , if you were considering one of them)

I have ported the shit out of my kinugawa td05-18g wastegate hole, it helps but still does creep up to 17+ psi around 5500rpm, on an unopened rb25 with usual basic mods. Although, it seems the turbo works best over 1 bar anyway. Electronic boost controller is used just to bring it on boost, and with the 8cm housing it is defintely not laggy. Have one of the new hypergear hiflows on the way just cos, am keen to see the comparison between the 2.

GTSboy is a perfect example of what I referred to previously, about taking opinions of others onboard when making my own decision. He and I have butted heads over the years over various topics but I would always take his opinion into consideration to some degree because I do know he has the smarts to validate his position, even if I don't agree. Speaking of which, GTSboy I'm guessing from the earlier post in this thread that you would consider a larger rotor worthwhile, on stock calipers, for a street-driven car, would that be right? if not going to a larger rotor, then at least just sticking with the 324mm?

come on man, come on....come on now.....come on. Seriously. Your first post in this thread came across as trying to pick an issue with me about calipers, on something I hadn't even said. Your further posts really didn't put forward any help either, poo-pooing a larger rotor as being any benefit, and then later even backtracking on that. I'm wasting my time explaining myself to you, but for what it's worth, it's not even the outright end result of it that it's all about, I like coming up with custom car projects, seeing what can be done and what will work. It's not something I'll spend 1000's on but a few hundred dollars, on something that could easily adapt to stock calipers? Sure, I'll look into it and see what can be done. Heaven forbid I post about it though and have my own ideas and not just blindly accept a 'no' to the idea from others. You'll also note Wing made a post above about how much would need to be ground from the caliper for a 340mm disc and it wouldn't be a good idea; did I just disagree with him and say, you don't know what you're talking about? No, I did not, I took his input on board, saw the validity of what he said and I do agree with it. I put it to you, it is YOU who are " one of those people who is going to do it their way no matter what ". Anyway, I'm vented now...up to you, post what you want, but at least try to make it constructive to the topic if you do.