hardsteppa

Result for you. ATR43ss2 ballbearing version compared to Garrett GTX 3076 gen 2. Same 0.82 externally gated housing used on both, and the turbo was the only change to the setup. Forged RB25, Supertech valvesprings, 256 Poncams, topmount steampipe ex.manifold with Turbosmart 38mm external gate, 3.5in intake pipe, 3.5in turbo back exhaust, Apexi PFC. P98 fuel. Disregard the pink line; that was the GTX running an EBC that overboosted, run aborted. The blue line is the ATR43, no boost controller, just running wastegate pressure. The red and green lines are the GTX, also just running wastegate pressure....crappy ex.manifold resulted in spiking a much higher boost pressure, another story so disregard that aspect of the higher HP when it hits 24psi. Important part to note is the ATR making more HP through the entire run right up until the boost creep on the GTX. Also to note, the R35 afm in a 3.5in pipe was hitting 5v at the peak of the red run. Here's the run of just the ATR. Just under 400rwhp. Note this was also with an inadequate boost controller; now running a Greddy MAP controller allowing for boost to come on stronger earlier without overshooting at higher rpms, so the midrange is now stronger. Same dyno and tuner for both, just done at different sessions.

edit - i meant edit not eidt. Ok i'm finished now.

eidt - use a press with a LITTLE bit of pressure, not much at all, is what i mean.

you need to either use a press with a bit of pressure, or get a bit of pipe the right size to fit on the metal lip, and CAREFULLY tap it on there STRAIGHT (it can be hard to get it straight, and not go on an angle).

Might be the drain flap at base of the centre plate. It moves, but shouldnt make any noise

Брисбан...далеко, lol.

Привет алекс, Как дела чувак :). Россий это мой 2nd язык, извините :/. Где ты?

Damn straight. 3.5in minimum.

Didn't you only recently make a topic on this exact same subject referencing the same 2 cars?

i had a Wilwood Superlite/Dynalite kit on my old car - it was 'ok' and no real issues with it, but allegedly some tests show the calipers to flex alot. Compared to the JustJap ATTKD brake kit, i'd choose the ATTKD any day; looks to be better design and more robust. ATTKD kit was approved by the engineer, no questions - as was the Wilwood kit, to be fair.

And get them to weld a flex section into the midpipe rather than dildoing about trying but fking up getting the 'ultimate' angle. Knob 2 birds with 1 dinger having a bit of movement for fitting, and engine movement.

It is odd. Balancer should be snug, never had it go on/off just by hand.

You'll want still streetish yes? Would go the blitz, i have found the ride to be better, different valving allegedly, although not pulled them apart to see.

Or something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fifth-gen-Defi-Advance-Zd-Control-Unit-Pkg-W-Cu-Oil-Press-Oil-Water-Temp-Sensor/183383574277?epid=18026937230&hash=item2ab2834705:g:oDAAAOSwikdes7VV Mine has worked flawlessly for years apart from the oil and fuel pressure sensors. Changed them to genuine defi, and reads the same.

Buy new. And search for recent similar threads.

Lol.

Nismo mounts are not stiff by any means. Definitely get one of those braces.

No i only have opinions on it. Allegedly lot of issues using steel 1 piece; the aluminium shaft can be better for a few reasons.

Try Alpha Omega, and use one of their 1piece aluminium shafts.

I dunno dudes...bit of work to do it with engine in, but still alot less work/time than pulling the engine. Would do it again engine in if all i was doing was the sump, oil pump etc.

really, did you do a post-mortem to see what happened to it? Too many powerz, or you think the newer boxes are cheaper/weaker built?

it's a service button. Automatically drops the engine and gearbox out when doing a major service; the icon is a warning to stand clear. Wouldn't press it if i was you.

Few more things for sale>> Bosch Z32 afm - bought from EFI Hardware 2 years ago, genuine Bosch. In VGC, have just changed to an R35 afm setup. Comes with Apexi pod filter (genuine, bought from RHD Japan). In VGC, $150, msg to discuss postage cost. GK Tech hicas lock bar - this sort here https://au.gktech.com/s14-s15-r33-r34-hicas-lock-bar comes with tie rods in good cond, no freeplay, and replaced rubber boots. Painted in pretty Cusco blue. $60, msg to discuss postage cost. Superpro lower control arm inner bushes - these here https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SuperPro-Rear-Control-Arm-Lower-Inner-Bush-Kit-Fits-Nissan-SPF2933K/162434413605?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 me drunk-buying and not paying attention, I got lower instead of upper. Brand new in packaging, $70 posted in Aus. Will put pics up of alleged items shortly. Still have other bits - 6x R33 gtst stock injectors $30. 2x R33 stock knock sensor, $30 each. R33 lower control arms with superpro bushes, traction and camber arms with whiteline bushes, caster rods with superpro bushes, ask for pricing. GK Tech wheel studs both brand new and used.

got to say, they are a fairly noisy box IMO . Still hear alot of operating noise from mine even after the full rebuild, but have come to love it 😛

anyone else playing/played this? During covid lockdown i got into ps3 then ps4 with a G29 wheel and race seat/rig and now am pretty much addicted lol. ACC is the best/real-est game i've played (ie, fkn harrrd to master) but the sound is absolutely amazing with a soundbar and subwoofer behind the seat. G29 settings feel ok after tweaking, but if others have played, curious to know what settings you use.